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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > Solar and Charger into one?

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full_mosey

Oklahoma

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Posted: 01/25/20 11:57am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ajriding wrote:



Anyone tackled this?


Yep!
See my profile.

HTH;
John

time2roll

Southern California

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Posted: 01/25/20 03:44pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The solar controller and converter feeding a single battery is not an issue ever.
If you need a power center with quality converter consider the PD4045
http://www.bestconverter.com/PD4045-45-Amp-Inteli-Power-Mighty-Mini-Power-Center

Any decent stand alone converter is only a few $$ less.


2001 F150 SuperCrew
2006 Keystone Springdale 249FWBHLS
675w Solar pictures back up

ajriding

st clair

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Posted: 01/26/20 08:40am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

That's true.

When I use power off the battery I think the voltage drops, so then the charger will be able to supply current before the actual battery voltage is low.
Is this right? A 12,5v battery might read 12.0v when you are using power, but stop and it goes back to 12.5v, so there is a false low voltage reading, or an instantaneous charge read across the terminals…
A single LED bulb will not do much, but the blower on the heater will.

I may pull this converter off and use it. It is al attached on a board with the breaker box and one outlet and a ground bar, so is big and heavy.

I did not wire the batt into the alternator as I never needed that on previous camper, but do want a way to charge in emergency

red31

Bryan

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Posted: 01/26/20 08:53am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

A load tester apples a large load to a battery and hopefully the voltage does not drop below 9v. Turn it off and the voltage returns to near where it started.

BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 01/26/20 08:58am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If you have been running the load for a time, the voltage will only bounce back to 12.4, not 12.5. Amp Hours. Don't forget the hours.


1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
See Profile for House electronics set-up.

time2roll

Southern California

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Posted: 01/26/20 08:59am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Yes the battery voltage will sag if the load exceeds the solar charging capacity. Then voltage will recover when the load is reduced and the solar gets back to charging. A good converter will hold the battery very steady at about 13.6 volts. That old converter might help you out if plugged in but if you expect a fast charge on generator power you will need a new modern multistage converter.

BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 01/26/20 09:58am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

All charging goes to the loads first, then the batteries get anything left over. If the loads take it all and want even more, that has to now come from the battery.

That is why RV converters are set to 13.6v as "normal" for while camping, and only go to 13.2v "storage" for battery maintenance when not camping and there are no other 12v loads.

The OP's 1972 converter needs to be checked for actual voltage no load and then when under the expected 12v loads, to see if it can hold the loaded voltage up enough so the battery does not have any draw on it.

The loads should be connected on the other side of the battery from that old converter so the battery will act as a filter for any "dirty 12v" that could ruin the fridge controls and any other circuit boards in the various 12v loads.

BTW, did we discover whether that "15 amps" is its 120v rating for the AC breaker panel or indeed for its DC output rating?

pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 01/26/20 11:30am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The proper place for the existing converter is a dust bin--or recycling center.


Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp hours of AGM in two battery banks 12 volt batteries, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 01/26/20 11:47am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Some googling says the 1972 Winnies had this, which has an Optional charger that could be 15a if label is "L" model.

You have a choice to be on battery or converter for 12v with either an automatic or a manual switch for that. It warns about checking the battery water weekly if you have the charger. [emoticon]

https://www.progressivedyn.com/wp-conten........ploads/2017/04/731q-738q-user-manual.pdf

The RV has all the latest elegance it says here

https://winnebagoind.com/resources/brochure/1972/72-Brave-bro.pdf

* This post was edited 01/26/20 11:58am by BFL13 *

ajriding

st clair

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Posted: 01/26/20 04:49pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

So, for fun the 1972 model is a Phillips Power Converter model PC 151-M-2
115 volts, 2.7 amps, and 60 (watts I assume but the sticker is torn).
12.7 volts DC Current, 15 (amps I assume but sticker is torn).

The wiring diagram on the inside of the cover says one wire goes to/from battery, the other wire to the "motor". I assume "motor" refers to any DC item and that's how I used it.

Through the vents I can see one giant transformer and one blue bean-sized something, maybe a diode.

There is a "Batt/Conv"switch to select battery only or converter. I am not sure if when switched to Conv if it just powers the "motor" or also sends volts to the battery at the same time. When the Conv is selected the lights were always brighter than the battery was ever able to make them.
I think how I wired it was I ran the battery positive into the converter and then the converter had one output for 12+ and that powered the "motor" and everything DC in camper.

If I remember correctly, when AC power is to this it still hums, so maybe is charging, or on, but I will have to wire it up and test it to know. Its been 4-5 years…The converter was on its own circuit breaker so I used that as the on/off switch.

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