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 > If I went to a Progressive Dynamics Converter.......

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Vintage465

Prunedale CA.

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Posted: 03/10/20 07:27pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

So I'm always looking to my next upgrade for my charging of the 4-6v GC batteries. Knowing that the WFCO converter my rig came with is next to useless on it's own, add to that the fact that there is 18' of #8 wire to drop the theoretical charging voltage from a possible 14.4 to 13.4.

If I went to a Progressive Dynamics retrofit I'd be re-conductoring to #1 or #2 wire from the converter to the batteries. I was reading that their charging profile is to pack 14.4 or 14.6 volts to 90% of the charge. Then somewhat float it up to 100% with 13.5-ish volts? To me this doesn't really seem like that great of "wizardry" even though it's called the charge wizard.

For those of you who've installed them, how well does the wizardry work? I would only be using it when there isn't enough sunlight to get at least 90% with my solar. When we were at the Mojave Desert for Thanksgiving this last year I could have used it one day to bring my batteries to 100%

Thoughts?

Thanks,


V-465
2013 GMC 2500HD Duramax Denali. 2015 CreekSide 20fq w/450 watts solar and 465 amp/hour of batteries. Retiring in 2021, then look-out road, here we come!

Lwiddis

Mojave, Kern County, CA

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Posted: 03/10/20 07:55pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Doesn’t sound like much of an upgrade for a bunch of money and time.


Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2020 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, 300 watts solar-parallel & MPPT, Trojan T-125s. TALL pole for flags. Prefer USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, USF&WS, state & county camps. Bicyclist! 14 year Army vet - 11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560)


pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 03/10/20 08:25pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi,

I would look at the variable voltage Boondocker models.

I mainly use an inverter/charger that allows me to program voltages.


Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp hours of AGM in two battery banks 12 volt batteries, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

time2roll

Southern California

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Posted: 03/10/20 08:32pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

#4 wire is fine and might be the max that fits the converter lugs.
Consider a 9280-14.8 for maximum charge as long as your generator can handle it.
Never read a complaint post on poor charging or shortened battery life with a PD converter. All top ratings.


2001 F150 SuperCrew
2006 Keystone Springdale 249FWBHLS
675w Solar pictures back up

STBRetired

I-80 and I-55

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Posted: 03/10/20 08:54pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Have the 9280 14.4V version. #4 is the largest wire that will fit in the converter lugs. The run to the T-105 Trojans is about 12 feet and I measure 14.37V at the battery terminals in "boost" mode. Have had the Trojans and the PD for 3 years. Hardly ever need to add water. Have had no issues with the batteries or the converter. Very happy with it.


1999 Newmar MACA 3796 F53 6.8L
2016 Ford Edge Sport
Roadmaster Sterling A/T with Brake Buddy Select


IAMICHABOD

Sunny So Cal 90713

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Posted: 03/10/20 10:00pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have the Progressive Dynamics Modified 14.8 with the charge Wizzard,with the pendent I can put it into boost,14.8, mode when I want to. When I run the generator it will automatically put it into boost mode. When plugged in it will follow its normal routine of charging.

It has worked out very well when boondocking and never failed to bring my batteries back up to 100%. Batteries are now 4.5 years old and in top shape,very little water use over that period.


2006 TIOGA 26Q CHEVY 6.0 WORKHORSE VORTEC
Former El Monte RV Rental

Buying A Rental Class C

Chevrolet Based Class C


landyacht318

Near a large body of salty water

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Posted: 03/11/20 12:09am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If one wants to use thicker cables than will fit in the cable receptacles, there are adapters available, or one can simply destrand at the connection until it fits. It's not going to cause any measurable voltage drop or excessive heating destranding a 0 gauge cable to 4 awg at the connection. The thicker copper cable will help wick away any extra heat. Do be sure to retorque it after a few cycles though.

The Pd is a good converter. The ability to manually force one of the three voltage stages is awesome. I am only annoyed by their marketing, calling the 4th stage , that 15 minute blast to 14.4 or 14.8 every 16 hours from 13.2v "equalization' instead of destratification.

True equalization is accepted as applying voltages over 15.3v, to as high as 16.2v, after the battery has already been held at a regular absorption voltage until amperage quit tapering in order to max out the specific gravity of all cells. To call Destratification which is simply inducing gassing voltaegs for a period of time to stir the electrolyte, 'equalization', annoys me, but I still recommend their converters for those who require automatic, as at least this Automatic, has the option of manual override.

I've installed two pd9245s for those needing automatic but liked the idea of manual override, and an Iota DLS-45 for the one person who said they would never manually override it even if they knew when why or how that would be desirable.

I like the Manual powermax adjustable voltage models too. The older 100 amp model I have modified with a 60mm continuous running fan opposite the provided 80mm fan, and calibratable illuminated voltmeter on a switch, and with 10 turn 500 ohm bourns potentiometer, makes only 94 amps, but that is likely as it is near maxing out the 15 amp household AC circuit and is not getting 115vac+ from it. It goes as high as 15.5v. Adjustable voltage is great when charging in hot or cold climates or multiple batteries that ask for wildly different setpoints, or when one simply hates anything 'automatic' which falls so short so often that it negatively affects battery longevity and enjoyment one can have when the batteries are not prematurely dying from chronic undercharging in back to back nightly deep cycle duty.

Powerpole princesses that rarely or never boondock, with their dual 12v group 24 marine/rv batteries are 'just fine' with the Manufacturer provided Wfco, until it fails anyway.

BarabooBob

Baraboo, WI

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Posted: 03/11/20 04:19am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I switched from the WFCO to the PD and my batteries come up to full charge very fast. With the WFCO, I could be plugged in for over a day and still not be fully charged. Not cheap, but compared to new batteries not a bad investment. If you look at owning an RV, there are really just expenses, not any real "investments."


Bob & Dawn Married 32 years
2017 Viking 17RD
2011 Ford F150 3.5L Ecoboost 420 lb/ft
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wa8yxm

Wherever I happen to park

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Posted: 03/11/20 05:52am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Vintage465 wrote:

If I went to a Progressive Dynamics retrofit I'd be re-conductoring to #1 or #2 wire from the converter to the batteries. I was reading that their charging profile is to pack 14.4 or 14.6 volts to 90% of the charge. Then somewhat float it up to 100% with 13.5-ish volts? To me this doesn't really seem like that great of "wizardry" even though it's called the charge wizard.


You were informed wrong.
Absorption is 14.4 volts same as bulk Just current is lower
when full it drops to 13.x and then after 20 hours kicks back up for like 15 minutes to keep things stirred up a bit. (Equalization and anti-stratification)

My OEM interstates lasted 9 years with moderate addition of Water.

I have done some research and frankly believe the Wizard to be the best charge controller made.


Home is where I park it.
Kenwood TS-2000 housed in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377


BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 03/11/20 09:55am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

https://www.google.ca/search?q=Creekside........YcQ7Al6BAgFECI&biw=1024&bih=422&dpr=1.25

You have a front compartment close to the battery bank on the tongue (assumed location) so you can just put your new converter in there and leave the WFCO and all that wiring work alone.

Getting wires from the front compartment to the batteries in a TT like that seems to be usually done by drilling a hole in the floor and going under and up instead of through the front cap.

Now is your chance to add an inverter to go with the converter. Your four 6s can run a 2000w inverter which can run the MW, eg. They can share the same wires going to the battery bank. You run your shore cable into that front compartment to plug it into the inverter (via 30/15 adapter) and unplug the new converter and disconnect the 120v from the WFCO too. Fridge on LP not on Auto.

You can put a "cable hatch" in the compartment door so you can close and lock the door with the shore cable still in there for when you are away from the rig.

The rig's 12v still uses the same long wires back to the DC fuse panel as now, no need to change any of that.

Choice of converters is mostly about your own style for automatic vs manual being there, as noted above. Your four 6s can take big amps for faster charging but you need a big enough generator for that. EG a typical "2200" can just manage a 75 amp non-PF corrected charger, but a "2000" would be for a 60 amper.

(See my profile for what my choices are for inverter and converters.)

Inverters have a remote on/off switch with a long telephone-like wire you would run back into the TT from that front compartment.

That would be one way to do an upgrade. YMMV of course.

I will try to find a photo of the cable hatch in the door trick I did with the 5er we had.

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* This post was edited 03/11/20 10:18am by BFL13 *


1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
See Profile for House electronics set-up.

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