RV.Net Open Roads Forum: If I went to a Progressive Dynamics Converter.......

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Tech Issues

Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > If I went to a Progressive Dynamics Converter.......

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 4  
Prev  |  Next
Sponsored By:
opnspaces

San Diego Ca

Senior Member

Joined: 12/22/2004

View Profile


Online
Posted: 03/11/20 11:31am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

^ BFL, can you clarify a bit.

Assuming the Original Poster (OP) has the original charge controller somewhere near the middle or rear of the RV.

Ignoring the inverter suggestion for a moment, You are suggesting putting the new Progressive Dynamics (PD) charger in the front storage compartment. This will allow the OP to run a much shorter charge cable to the batteries by going through the floor and up to the batteries on the other side of the wall.

The original #8 wire from battery to old charger/fuse panel can be left alone as it is what powers the coach. The only difference is that this #8 wire is no longer used to charge the batteries.

If possible the OP should find a way to disconnect and cap off the 120V AC and the 12V DC wiring that fed the original charger so it is out of the picture.

This makes sense as far as the battery hookup. But how does the shore power get to the new PD to charge the batteries? Would the OP run an additional three wire (pos, neg, gnd) from the original breaker box down through the floor in the rear and up through the hole in the front by the PD? If this is the suggestion and the user has an 18 foot run, would standard 14g wiring be sufficient for the 120v AC run?

Bringing the inverter back into the equation. Am I correct that your suggestion of running the shore power cord forward and into the front compartment is only for powering the RV through the inverter?

When running the trailer on batteries and using the shore power cord to the inverter. The OP must find a way to disconnect the PD charger to prevent a losing electrical loop. The loop being the batteries power the inverter which goes through the shore power cord to the coach. The coach then uses the newly added AC wiring to the PD charger and tries to charge the batteries. So the batteries are trying to charge the batteries.

Did I get it all correct?


2001 Suburban 4x4. 6.0L, 4.10 3/4 ton
2005 Jayco Jay Flight 27BH
1986 Coleman Columbia Popup.

BFL13

Victoria, BC

Senior Member

Joined: 02/15/2006

View Profile



Posted: 03/11/20 12:18pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

opnspaces wrote:

^ BFL, can you clarify a bit.

Assuming the Original Poster (OP) has the original charge controller somewhere near the middle or rear of the RV.

Ignoring the inverter suggestion for a moment, You are suggesting putting the new Progressive Dynamics (PD) charger in the front storage compartment. This will allow the OP to run a much shorter charge cable to the batteries by going through the floor and up to the batteries on the other side of the wall.

The original #8 wire from battery to old charger/fuse panel can be left alone as it is what powers the coach. The only difference is that this #8 wire is no longer used to charge the batteries.

If possible the OP should find a way to disconnect and cap off the 120V AC and the 12V DC wiring that fed the original charger so it is out of the picture.

This makes sense as far as the battery hookup. But how does the shore power get to the new PD to charge the batteries? Would the OP run an additional three wire (pos, neg, gnd) from the original breaker box down through the floor in the rear and up through the hole in the front by the PD? If this is the suggestion and the user has an 18 foot run, would standard 14g wiring be sufficient for the 120v AC run?

Bringing the inverter back into the equation. Am I correct that your suggestion of running the shore power cord forward and into the front compartment is only for powering the RV through the inverter?

When running the trailer on batteries and using the shore power cord to the inverter. The OP must find a way to disconnect the PD charger to prevent a losing electrical loop. The loop being the batteries power the inverter which goes through the shore power cord to the coach. The coach then uses the newly added AC wiring to the PD charger and tries to charge the batteries. So the batteries are trying to charge the batteries.

Did I get it all correct?


I didn't say OP should get a PD (unless that is what he wants [emoticon] )

No need to disconnect the 120v from the WFCO. Just have a way to turn it off if going on inverter. He can then still have the WFCO to do 13.6 on shore power, and he can leave his -perhaps- PowerMax LK set to 14.8v up front to use when on generator off-grid. Saves having to adjust the voltage on the LK so much. Just for equalizing now. Or whatever.

If he sells the rig, the WFCO stays as OEM and he keeps his new converter for himself. It is a spare if the new converter dies for some reason.

There is no DC wiring that feeds the WFCO. Leave its output DC connected to the DC fuse panel as now.

Yes, you need 120v for the new converter up front. In the 5er I just used a receptacle that was on the front wall just inside where the converter was on the other side in the front storage compartment. Depends on the rig what you can do. Pass an extension cord from up front into where it cam be plugged into the nearest receptacle?

Unless it is an 80 amp PD that needs a 20a (120v) circuit and 12g wire, the converter up to 75 amp size will run on a 15a circuit ( a 100a PF corrected one will too) so 14g is ok.

On inverter, just unplug the front converter. The WFCO 120v is turned off however that can be done --add a switch to its 120v or use its breaker if it has its own breaker.

Yes, the shore power cord goes to the inverter after you arrive as part of setting up when off-grid. When you want to recharge the batts, you get out your portable gen, unplug the shore power from the inverter and plug it into the gen.

That means staying on gas to run the fridge going down the road. If you want to run the fridge off inverter going down the road, you need another way to run the cord.

The OP already has solar, so no need to change anything, but you can put the controller in with the inverter and new converter to get a shorter run to the batteries for the controller's output. That can mean not seeing the controller's display so often. Means find a wire route up to the solar panels from there too.

If you add a Trimetric or similar to the deal, now you need the 500a shunt up there with the new things, which means re-route the neg wires now on the battery neg, including the one to the frame. Your long wire to the monitor's display comes through to inside, same hole as for the inverter's remote.

If the controller inside has a remote temp comp wire to the battery bank now, then it must have gone through a hole, which might be useful.


1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
See Profile for House electronics set-up.

MEXICOWANDERER

las peñas, michoacan, mexico

Senior Member

Joined: 06/01/2007

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 03/11/20 12:55pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

WTH
A sixty dollar megawatt would do the same for a third the money.

cavie

Port Charlotte Fl/ Hindsdale MA

Senior Member

Joined: 04/28/2019

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 03/11/20 01:18pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

landyacht318 wrote:

If one wants to use thicker cables than will fit in the cable receptacles, there are adapters available, or one can simply destrand at the connection until it fits. It's not going to cause any measurable voltage drop or excessive heating destranding a 0 gauge cable to 4 awg at the connection.


Never, Ever destrand a connection for any reason!!![emoticon]


2011 Keystone Sprinter 323BHS. Retired Master Electrician. Retired Building Inspector.

All Motor Homes are RV's. All RV's are not Motor Homes.

Vintage465

Prunedale CA.

Senior Member

Joined: 05/02/2015

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 03/11/20 08:36pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for all the info guys. I still don't quite see the logic int he charge wizard and I think it's safe to say I must have read the manual incorrectly. My Solar controller though nothing fancy just charges like a big dog at 14.8 til the batteries are full then shuts down to float. I can set to automatically equalize every 28 days, it will equalize @ 15.3v for 3 hours or I can push a button to manually equalize. I've thought about mounting a converter in the front as mentioned and there is 120v right there, so that would be reasonably possible. Problem is, my little rig is very tight up there and fitting a converter in there will be pretty tight. I don't see the day I need an inverter. I'm a little un-easy about having to throw switch when changing my set up from genny to shore. I don't need another thing to remember! My buddy just toasted his converter forgetting to flip a switch. Kind of why I was thinking of going with some bullet proof(big)wire from a PD unit in the factory location. Everything would be as it was, except that it would work right.

Thanks for the help.


V-465
2013 GMC 2500HD Duramax Denali. 2015 CreekSide 20fq w/450 watts solar and 465 amp/hour of batteries. Retiring in 2021, then look-out road, here we come!

MEXICOWANDERER

las peñas, michoacan, mexico

Senior Member

Joined: 06/01/2007

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 03/11/20 08:40pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Flip a timer

time2roll

Southern California

Senior Member

Joined: 03/21/2005

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member


Posted: 03/11/20 10:25pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

PD in the WFCO slot with existing wire will serve you well. Pull wire only if needed. You probably have #6 already, not a huge deal.


2001 F150 SuperCrew
2006 Keystone Springdale 249FWBHLS
675w Solar pictures back up

Vintage465

Prunedale CA.

Senior Member

Joined: 05/02/2015

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 03/12/20 08:20pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:

Flip a timer


What does this mean "flip a timer"?

Thanks,

pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

Senior Member

Joined: 12/18/2004

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 03/12/20 08:23pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Vintage465 wrote:

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:

Flip a timer


What does this mean "flip a timer"?

Thanks,


use a timer--so the battery won't over charge. Flip it to the appropriate time.


Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp hours of AGM in two battery banks 12 volt batteries, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

RLS7201

Beautyful Downtown Gladstone, MO

Senior Member

Joined: 10/26/2002

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 03/13/20 04:32pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

cavie wrote:

landyacht318 wrote:

If one wants to use thicker cables than will fit in the cable receptacles, there are adapters available, or one can simply destrand at the connection until it fits. It's not going to cause any measurable voltage drop or excessive heating destranding a 0 gauge cable to 4 awg at the connection.


Never, Ever destrand a connection for any reason!!![emoticon]


Why?

Richard


95 Bounder 32H F53
460/528 stroker
Web Master
MWPSchooners.com
First brake job
1941 Hudson


Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 4  
Prev  |  Next

Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > If I went to a Progressive Dynamics Converter.......
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Tech Issues


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:




© 2020 CWI, Inc. © 2020 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.