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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > Converter and Battery Question

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wa8yxm

Wherever I happen to park

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Posted: 03/26/20 04:07pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I agree both wires from converter should go direct to battery. The frame is often "negative Ground" but...... the connections may be less than optiomal so it should be direct connected.

As for the 12 volt stuff working with the CONV breaker off.. Yes. that's what the battery does. it powers the 12 volt side of life when the converter is off due to breaker trip, shut off or loss of shore power.

True story: For reasons of electrical safety I have a Surge Guard system (Mine is the TRC but well I would rather have the Progressive Industries but one "Heck of a sale" decided me)

The other day we had a thunderstorm. One lightening flash was within half a mile of where I'm parked (about 1 second or between 1000 and 2000 feet between Flash and BOOM) the EMP triped the ground fault detector in the surge guard.. Thanks to the 12 volt battery bank and an inverter it was like half an hour before I noticed an indicator NOT lit and went out (THe rain had seriously let up by then still misting but not downpour) Thanks to the 2000 watt inverter even the TV was till playing recorded video.. A quick off/on of the breaker and 2.x minutes later CLUNK lights brighter as the converters kicked in.,


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time2roll

Southern California

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Posted: 03/26/20 04:44pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

avarusbrightfyre wrote:

My second question is about the converter. My electrical panel has a breaker for the converter that allows me to shut it off, and when I do that the 12V system still appears to work just fine. I have the type that plugs into an AC outlet, not one that is wired directly into the panel. I've read online that sometimes removing the converter completely can disable the 12V system, which I suppose means the converter not only charges the battery, but also powers the 12V when plugged into shore power. Is this accurate, or is the 12V side of the panel powered directly by the battery? Is it different for different manufacturers? I'd like to relocate the converter to be next to the battery setup so everything battery related is together, but if I have to run wire through the coach to do it I think I might not bother. My RV came with the "extreme weather" package, so the entire bottom is covered with insulation, and I'm not confident I can run the wire through the floor without hitting obstructions.

Thanks!
The battery should run the RV with or without a converter. That is until the battery is dead. If you have a charging system direct on the battery you are good to go.


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theoldwizard1

SE MI

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Posted: 03/26/20 06:30pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If you have not bought your inverter yet, buy on that is a combination inverter/charger/transfer switch. Much easier to install and use ! Basically, you remove/bypass your existing converter charger.

Heavy loads (such as your new inverter/charger) should have their positive and negative (ground) connection directly. If there is a ground bus bar inside of your DC fuse panel, you should run a heavy gauge wire from that to the battery negative post.

Small loads (lights, typical 12VDC outlets) can use the frame ground.

avarusbrightfyre

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Posted: 03/26/20 06:53pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

theoldwizard1 wrote:

If you have not bought your inverter yet, buy on that is a combination inverter/charger/transfer switch. Much easier to install and use ! Basically, you remove/bypass your existing converter charger.

Heavy loads (such as your new inverter/charger) should have their positive and negative (ground) connection directly. If there is a ground bus bar inside of your DC fuse panel, you should run a heavy gauge wire from that to the battery negative post.

Small loads (lights, typical 12VDC outlets) can use the frame ground.


Thanks for the suggestion. I'm trying to find a balance between convenience and price. I've looked into inverter chargers, and the decent ones appear to be items like the Victron Multiplus for $1,200 or the GoPower IC 3000 at around $1,400. From what I've read,
other models appear to have issues powering both sides of the 50 amp service.

For half that price I can buy a 3000w inverter, a brand new converter, a 30A outlet to wire to the inverter so I can plug my RV power cord in that way with an adapter, a switch that will automatically cut off power to the converter, and the various wiring and connectors required to connect it all together. I also think that doing it this way will make it so that if a part gets damaged, it's more easily repairable or replaceable than a factory produced single unit.

At least that's the hope anyway...


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cavie

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Posted: 03/26/20 06:57pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Before you do anything, the storage compartment must be HIGHLY vented at ALL TIMES and HIGHLY sealed off from the interior of the trailer. Installed in a battery box that is vented to the outside is one way. Battery vented gases can kill you.

The wires from the inverter to the battery must be sized to the wattage of the inverter installed and the distance to the battery. It's called voltage drop. They will be large. You cannot run the complete trailer off the inverter. You will need to install a inverter sub panel and wire just a few things to it. Batteries do not provide enough power to run A/C and WH's. Sounds like it's time for an electrician.

The 12 volt system works with the converter turned off because it keeps the battery charged. If it is off all will work until the battery goes dead.

* This post was edited 03/26/20 07:05pm by cavie *


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