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Open Roads Forum  >  Truck Campers

 > 2002 Lance 811 Rebuild - Update 09.30.2020- PROJECT COMPLETE

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BurbMan

Islip, Long Island

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Posted: 05/06/20 12:53pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

*UPDATES POSTED LATER IN THE THREAD**

I started digging into the rot on my 2002 Lance 811. It looks like the kitchen window and bed window on the street side had leaks along the bottom edges and let a bunch of water in, causing delamination and structural damage. About 1/3 of the street side wall has water damage.

The original plan was to get a sheet of filon and just re-do the whole wall. Use contact cement to laminate the filon to a new piece of luanne, use the old piece as a template to cut the windows and access hatches athen reattach to the frame.

NOW....it looks like the filon/luanne assembly was glued to the frame at the factory. The factory is closed at the moment due to corona so nobody there to ask. HOW do I get the rest of the wall off of the framing?

* This post was last edited 09/30/20 12:14pm by BurbMan *   View edit history


2015 Ram 3500 SRW 4x4 Laramie Crew Cab Long Box, Cummins diesel
2002 Lance 811 Slide-In Camper
SOLD: 2008 Terry 34' TT
SOLD: 2001 K2500LT 8.1L Suburban

Lance 811 Renovation Story!
Project Complete!
Maiden Voyage!


NRALIFR

Truck Camping Out West

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Posted: 05/06/20 02:54pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The only way I can think of is to start by using a power tool that can make plunge cuts between the luan that’s on the back of the filon and the camper framing. The tool I’m thinking of is a Rockwell Sonicrafter or any of the other brand oscillating blade multi+tools. You’re going to find that there are staples around the edges and compartment doors. The right oscillating blades can cut through those staples. The longest blades for those are only about 3” long though.

Once you’ve started separating the skin from the framing, you may be able to use something like a heavy duty floor scraper to finish the job with brute force. The type of scraper I’m thinking of is the type used for old flooring demolition to remove ceramic or vinyl tile. They have a long handle, and heavy forged steel head that can be sharpened.

If you go the brute force route, find some young stout guys to do the majority of the work for you. That kind of work is hard on older guys joints.

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2001 Lance 1121 on a 2016 F450


Kayteg1

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Posted: 05/06/20 03:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I just parted 2001 Lance 1161 and since I used parts for new conversion, I was trying to save whatever I could.
On my Lance factory used extremely good glue who had rubber-like consistency.
It will peel layer of wood from they filon but not let it go.
So to remove the filon without breaking frame, I peel whatever I could to find studs location and then used metal grinder to remove the fillon with glue under.





NRALIFR

Truck Camping Out West

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Posted: 05/07/20 05:24am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Here’s a link to a topic that may be of some help to you. Member “pjay9”, Peter Walsh, documented the most extensive TC rebuild project I’ve ever seen. His 2004 Lance 1161 had some serious water damage from its life in the Tacoma, WA area. A local outfit completely stripped the exterior skin off, rebuilt major sections of the damaged frame, and reskinned it.

I could have sworn there was a picture in this topic somewhere showing one of the rebuild guys wielding a long handled scraper like the one I described working on removing a section of the filon. I scanned through the topic, but can’t find the picture I was looking for. Maybe it was in another of his topics. If I remember right, Capt PJ passed away 4-5 years ago.

Rebuild is moving forward! pj

My recollection is that the skin was scraped/peeled/ripped off which left a lot of glue and luan backer behind, then angle grinders were used to remove that from the framing.

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Kayteg1

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Posted: 05/07/20 08:26am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BTW Lance, at least in those years had pretty poor engineering of joints.
I repaired joints under 1161 slide 3 years before parting and Simpson brackets I used had cracks on them. Also 1161 had metal shirts when the rear floor goes wide. They had cracks too.
So when you rebuild yours, think about reinforcing weak designs.

BurbMan

Islip, Long Island

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Posted: 05/08/20 08:39am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks guys. I started using my oscillating saw with a scraper blade and that made getting the corner trim off a lot easier. I can see a long handled scraper being of use too. Trying not to gouge the wood framing that's still solid too much. I am thinking maybe cutting the handle off of a stiff putt knife and welding it to a piece of round or square tube maybe 2' long that I can beat with a hammer.

Current high level plan:
1. Remove the filon in one piece;
2. Buy a roll of filon and use contact cement to laminate it to a fresh piece of luanne;
3. Use the old piece as a template to rout out the windows and hatches on the new piece;
4. Repair/reinforce the framing. Steel at the corners where the jacks attach and lots of epoxy and Rot Doctor.
5. Liquid Nails the new side to the repaired frame.

I still have to do some research on correct adhesives, etc. Keep those video links coming and I'll try to post some pics as I move along.

Currently have the windows, hot water heater, and trim removed and trying to pry that siding off in one piece. If I didn't need it as a template the job would go faster.

Weather here has been terrible and we have an Arctic Blast coming this weekend, so we'll see how much I can accomplish.

NRALIFR

Truck Camping Out West

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Posted: 05/08/20 09:14am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

What I found when I replaced the rotted wings on my camper is that it’s very easy to install the new filon without cutting it first at all.

At the most, just do a very rough, over sized cut to give you plenty of room to adjust the fit. Then, use a flush trimming laminate bit on your router to finish the job. Do this for both the outer perimeter and the door and window openings. I think if you try to make precise cuts prior to fastening the filon down, you won’t get everything to line up perfectly.

There are plunge-cut panel trimming router bits available that don’t even require you to drill a pilot hole first.

Plunge Cut Panel Trim Bit

If the filon you’re installing goes all the way to the roofline, just line up one of the long edges with that, and trim the rest in place.

I just fixed the broken image links in this old topic about a week ago.

2001 Lance 1121 Rot Repair

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* This post was edited 05/08/20 09:49am by NRALIFR *

BurbMan

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Posted: 05/08/20 11:52am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I read that thread a few times already and I appreciate you taking time to update the photo links. I'm struggling with Photobucket right now, who has a good alternative with easy mobile uploads?

Kayteg1

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Posted: 05/08/20 01:25pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Not only RV.net photo posting is using imgur.com, but I have several albums on the site, some having >300 pictures.
Works great so far, jut for hotlinking here, check the setting for public views.

NRALIFR

Truck Camping Out West

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Joined: 11/27/2005

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Posted: 05/08/20 01:49pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Bookmark this site, and use it to upload your photos to IMGUR.

http://photoposting.is-great.net

Don’t worry about setting the height and width of your picture, as this site will automatically scale it down to the recommended size for this forum (400x600) if it’s too big.

I use this from all of my devices, iPhone, iPad, and windows PC.

After you upload your picture, copy and paste the entire link it provides you into the “Quick Reply” or “Advanced Post Form” on the forum. See what I’ve highlighted below.

[image]

From a mobile device, it’s of course better to upload images with a small file size, vs one that’s several MB’s. On Apple devices, they will give you the option of choosing the image size to upload, and “medium” is usually just fine. Not sure what androids let you do there.

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