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Open Roads Forum  >  Toy Haulers  >  Toy Haulers

 > Toy Hauler Ramp Door Frame Separating

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HRTKD

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Posted: 05/20/20 09:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The thread listed below covers the issue I'm having and it's even the same brand! I have a 2006 Fleetwood Gearbox 220FB, which is a travel trailer, while the trailers in the other thread are fifth wheels.

The frame of my ramp door isn't secured well enough to the rest of the trailer. I can't keep caulk (tried multiple types/brands) on the vertical seams on each side.

What I need to know is where the lag screws - mentioned in the other thread - are located. I tried taking the inside wall apart in an attempt to find how the frame attaches to the trailer.

https://www.rv.net/FORUM/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/26076699.cfm

EDIT: Made your link clickable.

* This post was edited 05/21/20 09:31am by an administrator/moderator *


2006 Fleetwood Gearbox 220FB S4
2017 Ford F-350 CCLB 6.7L

HRTKD

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Posted: 05/26/20 05:20pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Answering my own question here. I thought the "bolts" to hold the frame of the cargo door ramp were going to be big, at the top and hidden behind something. It turns out they were in plain sight and they aren't bolts, they just some wimpy screws. The reason my door frame was separating from the trailer is that most of the aforementioned screws are missing. More than half the screw holes are empty.

[image]

In the picture above, you're looking at the curb side of the trailer. On the right is the cargo door and on the left are the vertical slides for the HappiJac bunk bed.

To fix this situation I had to first pull the cargo door back against the trailer wall. I mounted a 2x4 at the top of the door frame and then connected two ratchet straps to the 2x4. The ratchet straps were attached to the cargo tie-downs on the floor as far forward as possible. There was so much tension on the straps that they twanged when plucked. Both sides were drawn in, but the curb side came in the most at 1/2".

[image]

The vertical 2x4 boards were necessary because the ratchet straps wanted to pull the horizontal board down.

[image]

New screw on the left, old screw on the right. I didn't count, but I think there were 10 screws missing before I started. I used the old holes when I could but added a few more, just to be sure.

[image]

There are screw holes along the upper frame. Those holes have never had screws in them. They would be going into a fake wood shelf that is above the door. I don't know how much good that would do. It seems like it would just tear up the shelf. This is a lousy design on the part of Fleetwood.

Dirtclods

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Posted: 05/27/20 10:21am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My buddies 2007 attitude had the same issue even thought it wasn't a warranty item and it was years after he bought it they took care of it.

* This post was edited 05/27/20 04:12pm by Dirtclods *

HRTKD

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Posted: 05/27/20 10:34am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Dirtclods wrote:

My buddies 2007 attitude had the same issue even thought it wasn't a warranty item and it was years afer he bought it they took care of it.


Fleetwood went bankrupt years ago and emerged as a motorhome-only company. They wouldn't talk to me about my trailer when I tried to get some info.

Dirtclods

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Posted: 05/27/20 04:15pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

HRTKD wrote:

Dirtclods wrote:

My buddies 2007 attitude had the same issue even thought it wasn't a warranty item and it was years after he bought it they took care of it.


Fleetwood went bankrupt years ago and emerged as a motorhome-only company. They wouldn't talk to me about my trailer when I tried to get some info.


Gotcha as said these things are built so fast and cheaply their is No quality control.

Y-Guy

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Posted: 05/27/20 05:03pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Dirtclods wrote:

Fleetwood went bankrupt years ago and emerged as a motorhome-only company. They wouldn't talk to me about my trailer when I tried to get some info.

They bailed on a lot of new trailer owners, the reality is they company didn't buy any of the trailer products so I doubt they really have much info to help you.

If you are in Oregon or Washington you might reach out to Drakes RV repair in Pendleton Oregon, (541) 278-8170. I used them years ago with my Raptor, the guys working there had all worked at the Keystone, Northwood or Fleetwood factories in the area.


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DBman

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Posted: 07/07/20 05:09pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We are having the same problem. We have 2006 Gearbox M300fs toy hauler. Thank you so much for your information and pictures. What screws did you use and how big? Does it seem to be secure now? Also, any other recommendations or info you can share about this or other issues with your Gearbox?
Thanks in advance!

HRTKD

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Posted: 07/07/20 06:28pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I used 5/16" hex head #12x1" self-tapping screws. The screw heads certainly don't blend in, but it's a toy hauler so I don't care. I drilled extra holes in the door frame with a regular drill bit to save myself some time. So far, it's holding well. I've had it out twice since the repair. The caulk has no cracks.

There is a fifth wheel Gearbox at the storage lot that had the same problem. The repair facility at the storage lot fixed the door frame for them for $1,000. They used a front loader to push the frame back onto the trailer. I talked to the technician that did the work and his description of how they did it was enough to clue me into doing it myself.

As far as other issues go, get under the fresh water tank and look at the square tube crossmembers. They should be perfectly straight. Mine weren't and I upgraded them to stronger square tubing. I think the prior owner filled the tank all the way up to 120 gallons and then drove down the roughest roads he could find.

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