RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Towing or packing a Smart Car on the back of a Class A

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Dinghy Towing

Open Roads Forum  >  Dinghy Towing

 > Towing or packing a Smart Car on the back of a Class A

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 3  
Prev
Sponsored By:
rgatijnet1

Florida

Senior Member

Joined: 06/22/2009

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member


Posted: 06/20/20 03:27pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

With the 1800 lbs. weight on the rear axle it may shift enough weight off of the front axle to make the coach wander while going down the road. I would go with a dolly or trailer.

JRscooby

Indepmo

Senior Member

Joined: 06/10/2019

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 06/21/20 06:34am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

CA Traveler wrote:

It's air suspension and the tag is adjustable. Possibly with the tag set to 10,000 lbs it could make up the difference of the steel structure and car weight located about 13' behind the tag. Right now I can't quickly get my head around the lever arm math.

Even though the suspension can be raised 6" with modification that would be an very poor choice for traveling but works well for air leveling.


Don't know much about MH, but a lifetime of messing with trucks I always found a rougher ride when some axles maxed out, while others where unloaded.

CA Traveler

The Western States

Senior Member

Joined: 01/03/2004

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 06/21/20 07:02am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

JRscooby wrote:

CA Traveler wrote:

It's air suspension and the tag is adjustable. Possibly with the tag set to 10,000 lbs it could make up the difference of the steel structure and car weight located about 13' behind the tag. Right now I can't quickly get my head around the lever arm math.

Even though the suspension can be raised 6" with modification that would be an very poor choice for traveling but works well for air leveling.


Don't know much about MH, but a lifetime of messing with trucks I always found a rougher ride when some axles maxed out, while others where unloaded.
Not the greatest design for my unit. Front axle is maxed at just under 14K, back axle is maxed at just under 20K. I wanted to increase the 5K tag and reduce the drive weight but can't with the front maxed. And if I emptied the cargo it wouldn't help much.

I suspect that the stability and safety of a RV is compromised with a car on the back. Probably is fine for normal traffic.

But my red line is liability: In case of a major issue my fault or not I don't want to be standing in front of a judge explaining why my RV doesn't meet his state requirements. Also why I recommend aux brakes on a toad.


2009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
750 Watts Solar Morningstar MPPT 60 Controller
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland

Bob


CA Traveler

The Western States

Senior Member

Joined: 01/03/2004

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 06/21/20 07:08am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have no experience of changing the suspension the air pressure. However the ride is better than any non air suspension RV I've been in, don't know about Class B types. It's also better than any pickup truck I've been in towing or not. Plus with the rear engine significantly quieter to drive.

Ivylog

Blairsville, GA and WPB, FL.

Senior Member

Joined: 06/30/2004

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 06/22/20 06:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

CA Traveler wrote:

JRscooby wrote:

CA Traveler wrote:

It's air suspension and the tag is adjustable. Possibly with the tag set to 10,000 lbs it could make up the difference of the steel structure and car weight located about 13' behind the tag. Right now I can't quickly get my head around the lever arm math.

Even though the suspension can be raised 6" with modification that would be an very poor choice for traveling but works well for air leveling.

I suspect that the stability and safety of a RV is compromised with a car on the back. Probably is fine for normal traffic.


That’s 1800 lbs off the rear, on 3 DPs over 120+K miles. Takes 700 lbs off the front axle
[image]


This post is my opinion (free advice). It is not intended to influence anyone's judgment nor do I advocate anyone do what I propose.
Sold 04 Dynasty to our son after 14 great years.
Upgraded with a 08 HR Navigator 45’...


rhagfo

Portland, OR

Senior Member

Joined: 07/06/2012

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 06/22/20 08:50pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Maybe you could trade your current Class A for one like this. The owner stated that it would also take a Smart Car.

[image]

[image]

[image]


Russ & Paula the Beagle Belle.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 Aisin DRW 4X4 Long bed.
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS, 32' GVWR 12,360#

"Visit and Enjoy Oregon State Parks"


fernandolegend

Grand Rapids

New Member

Joined: 06/16/2021

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 06/16/21 09:18pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hey everyone! Would anyone know where I could find and purchase one of these smart car haulers?

[image]

Ivylog

Blairsville, GA and WPB, FL.

Senior Member

Joined: 06/30/2004

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 06/17/21 06:32am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Congrats on finding this thread for your first post and posting a picture.
You do have a tag axle coach… with only one post it’s hard to tell.
1600 lbs that far back is going to put 2100 lbs on the rear axles and take 700 off the front.
A Smart car is 106” long, 4” over the max legal width…hard to solve this issue.
A modified Hydra Lift is the only one I would use and hopefully I’d not have to get a over width permit for every state I’m in.

I would do a modified wheel lift that doesn’t raise and lower… I drive the car up. Fairly easy to back it up.
[image]

tarnold

georgia

Senior Member

Joined: 03/01/2010

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 06/18/21 10:36am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I tow a smart with a self installed elite ll. Look at aluma for a single axle trailer for a smart. But then you have to find a place for the aluma.

Alan_Hepburn

San Jose, Ca, USA

Senior Member

Joined: 05/02/2003

View Profile





Offline
Posted: 06/18/21 10:52am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It's only been mentioned once here, but be aware that the smart cars from 2008 forward are 4" longer than the maximum allowable width of vehicles. The older, grey-market smarts were shorter and that's why some people got away with loading them cross-ways on the back of their tow vehicles.


----------------------------------------------
Alan & Sandy Hepburn driving a 2007 Fleetwood Bounder 35E on a Workhorse chassis - Proud to be a Blue Star Family!
Good Sam Member #566004


Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 3  
Prev

Open Roads Forum  >  Dinghy Towing

 > Towing or packing a Smart Car on the back of a Class A
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Dinghy Towing


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:




© 2021 CWI, Inc. © 2021 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.