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Open Roads Forum  >  Dinghy Towing

 > Towing or packing a Smart Car on the back of a Class A

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RustyMacIntosh

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Posted: 06/14/20 11:09am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

4300 bucks???

Reisender

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Posted: 06/14/20 11:18am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

This is the Kendon you are talking about allthough we bought this 10 years ago from the Kendon factory and I think they have changed a bit since then. We towed an electric smart for 5 years like this and a diesel smart before then. Great little car. Had a lot of fun and put on a lot of miles. And the convertible makes it even more fun.

[image]

[image]

Still our favourite mode of towing as you can back up and literally parallel park. About half the trailer fit under the rear of the motorhome so it wasn't an issue on sites. Ours was not the type that stood on its tail...or at least I never tried it.

We have changed up how we travel for the next four or five years so we just sold the smart car and trailer. Really going to miss that little thing. Like you say, it went like a bat out of hell. (the electric, not the diesel). We replaced it with a Tesla model 3...but we won't be towing that one. [emoticon]

[image]

valhalla360

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Posted: 06/14/20 12:36pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

CA Traveler wrote:

valhalla360 wrote:

A dolly or swivel wheel trailer would likely make more sense and be a heck of a lot cheaper.
I was wondering about the swivel wheel cost comparison considering it was a DIY project.


I didn't see where it was a DIY project but on looking at it, there is the suggestion to just use the receiver hitch...assuming we take that literally, I hope someone steps in before he hits the freeway with it.

Of course, assuming he is building a legitimate rack on the back welded solidly to the frame (and a frame capable of handling the load), knocking up a home built swivel wheel trailer likely would still be cheaper...probably less complicated to.


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Executive45

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Posted: 06/14/20 12:37pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Of note is the trailers sold at Lowes and Home Depot have a MAX SPEED of 45mph on the tires, so buyer beware....Dennis


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ferndaleflyer

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Posted: 06/16/20 06:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Guess I am the only responder that actually has a Smart. Get a dolly and get going.

Ivylog

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Posted: 06/17/20 02:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

OP, if you still have the Bounder in your signature... NO WAY can you put 1800 lbs on a rack on the back. Like Mike said above that’s going to put 3000+ lbs on your rear axle. Get a trailer or a dolly.


This post is my opinion (free advice). It is not intended to influence anyone's judgment nor do I advocate anyone do what I propose.
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RustyMacIntosh

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Posted: 06/19/20 07:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Having RedNeck Trailers build me a trailer. It will be low profile, with low profile fat tires, a 3500 Dexter Axle and tiedown. The Smart just got a new motor. But it is blocked in at the shop. Tomorrow we are going to try and get it out of the area it is in. The Yukon behind it cant be moved, so we will try working it thru the office area.

Now that IS a Smart Car, instead of going out the garage it goes the the office....

Yes after doing some research, (math not being my best suit) having 1800 lbs of car sitting on a motorcycle type rack on the back of the motorhome would not be wise.

I did get a line on a Tow Toad. I might buy it. Price is right.

CA Traveler

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Posted: 06/20/20 12:06pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Weight wise I could likely have a car on the back of the MH. Front axle and drive are maxed out but the 10,000 tag has only 5,000 lbs.

Don't get me started on this design...

There is also limited ground clearance - what do you do for more inside headroom? Answer - lower the rig to the ground of course.


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JRscooby

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Posted: 06/20/20 02:32pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

CA Traveler wrote:

Weight wise I could likely have a car on the back of the MH. Front axle and drive are maxed out but the 10,000 tag has only 5,000 lbs.

Don't get me started on this design...

There is also limited ground clearance - what do you do for more inside headroom? Answer - lower the rig to the ground of course.



What kind of suspension system do you have on that tag? Most trucks have some type of air. Pretty easy to adjust.

CA Traveler

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Posted: 06/20/20 02:58pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It's air suspension and the tag is adjustable. Possibly with the tag set to 10,000 lbs it could make up the difference of the steel structure and car weight located about 13' behind the tag. Right now I can't quickly get my head around the lever arm math.

Even though the suspension can be raised 6" with modification that would be an very poor choice for traveling but works well for air leveling.

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