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Open Roads Forum  >  Fifth-Wheels

 > Waterproofing the 1/8" thick exposed plywood

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RobWNY

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Posted: 06/23/20 08:35am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

On the inside wall area of the outside kitchen, pass though storage compartment and propane tank areas of my 5th Wheel, there is exposed plywood or paneling type material. The most concerning would be where the propane tanks are mounted because it's open underneath and spray will get in there if traveling when it's raining or there's wet roads. Sooner rather than later it will rot. I'd like to avoid that before it starts. Any ideas what I should do to protect it?

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Huntindog

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Posted: 06/23/20 09:26am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ouch. That is not good.
I think the best way is to have it and rthe surounding area sprayed with bedliner.
Next best would be the DIY bedliner in a can. I have done a wood floor in a cargo trailer with it, and it worked great,,, But since you are working upside down, I think it would be hard to do a good job. Perhaps they make that stuff in a spray can now? Whatever you do, wear PPE! eyes, and breathing protection!



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STBRetired

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Posted: 06/23/20 09:33am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

They still sell "undercoating" in spray cans at auto parts stores. Not a good as bedliner, but it will do in a pinch.


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MFL

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Posted: 06/23/20 09:53am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I had a few unfinished plywood edges, a bit thicker than that, underneath my propane and pass through areas, that I just primed/painted. It has stayed sealed, no issue for years. I used a brush, so no mess or over spray.

Jerry





jdc1

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Posted: 06/23/20 10:24am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Why not use duct sealant? It's thick, sticks to ANYTHING, pliable (stretches), and weatherproof. Brush it on. Water clean-up. I used under my trailer where the tire blew a hole in my heater ducting. It holds up WELL.

CapnCampn

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Posted: 06/23/20 10:36am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I was going to suggest brush on polyurethane or some sealer like that, but I think MFL's suggestion of painting it would be just as good. It seems to work on house siding, right?

CC

RobWNY

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Posted: 06/23/20 12:40pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I decided to take a combined opinion approach. I bought a pint can of Flex Seal Liquid and will be painting it on. Hopefully it will last since it won't be exposed to UV rays and weather unless as I mentioned I'm traveling down the road during rain. It's an inexpensive repair and I can always go over it each year.

BurbMan

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Posted: 06/23/20 03:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I was going to recommend Flex Seal as well. I had some framing under the slide in our TT that was wrapped with Darco...water got in, couldn't get out, and the wood rotted. When I rebuilt the floor I sprayed the replacement lumber with Flex Seal and it's help up great for 7+ years.


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Huntindog

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Posted: 06/23/20 05:07pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Don't stop at just the edge. fill the gap between the wood and what appears to be metal tubing. This is why I thought a spray on product would work better... Gravity is gonna fight you trying to get it into the crevices

RobWNY

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Posted: 06/23/20 08:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Huntindog wrote:

Don't stop at just the edge. fill the gap between the wood and what appears to be metal tubing. This is why I thought a spray on product would work better... Gravity is gonna fight you trying to get it into the crevices


I'm going to squeeze some caulk behind the piece that isn't flush and clamp it until dry. The two pieces are butted up tight to one another so it's just that one small gap. After it's dry, I'll use the Flex Seal.

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