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 > Howdy. New Owner With Questions Not Found in the Manuals.

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longbedbob

WV

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Joined: 06/28/2020

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Posted: 06/29/20 04:01pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Lots of responses here. Thanks.

Apologies if I don't hit every one.

1. Consensus seems to be there's no harm with using different controllers with different set points for the various stages of charging.

2. Don't trust the levels. 2/3 is the new full. BTW, the shower does drain into the same tank as the bathroom sink. The black water tank was empty. It's never been used but I opened the valve anyway, because some showers do drain there. Dealer said there could be a check valve to help prevent these sorts of oversights from overflowing onto the floor.

3. The wine cooler is an Everchill unit. It is supposed to cool to near freezing but the glass door makes cooling inefficient. It will disappear at some point and be replaced by a conventional dorm fridge.

4. Short power is available until we demolish the old structure. Then it could be 6 months or 6 years until there will be another functioning RV outlet. I do have several generators, including an inverter model that has been converted to run on propane. We tested it for a weekend. 5 hours of daily usage with the AC at max setting and some microwave and TV used 3.5 gallons over on an 11 hour period. Pretty efficient, I'd say. Anyway, rather than add two more panels and two more flooded batteries, perhaps I'd better bite the proverbial bullet and upgrade to Li Ion batteries first. The most painful part would be over with and I'd have the same capacity as I currently do, but would have a better discharge rate and not need to concern myself with battery maintenance. A second battery and set of panels would happen if there was enough electrical demand.

Thanks again for the assistance.

pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Joined: 12/18/2004

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Posted: 06/29/20 04:40pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Li batteries won't do anything to produce power. I'd encourage you to use much more solar with conventional batteries. Cost of Solar is under $1 per watt--so single LI would finance a large (for an rv) solar farm.


Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp hours of AGM in two battery banks 12 volt batteries, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

CA Traveler

The Western States

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Posted: 06/29/20 07:43pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

OP No shore power is different than unreliable power so lets back up. Do you need/want power while you are not there and if so for what like refer on propane or AC, etc.

Are you sure you can't have temporary power after demonolation? You're OK with using gens for 6 years for A/C? Without a very large off grid solar farm and battery setup you won't have A/C except with a gen. Or what you already have may be OK to supplement the gen. Perhaps best to go with what you have and develop a plan when the needs are clear.


2009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
750 Watts Solar Morningstar MPPT 60 Controller
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland

Bob


CA Traveler

The Western States

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Posted: 06/29/20 07:44pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Many of us have advised others to first do a energy audit prior to solar and battery upgrades. My first purchase was a battery monitor that helped define and verify my audit.

Super_Dave

Harrisville, UT

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Posted: 06/30/20 08:51am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

At demolition, a post in the ground and a temp panel box. A contractor will do the exact same when new construction starts so just do it now.


Truck: 2006 Dodge 3500 Dually
Rig: 2018 Big Country 3155 RLK
Boat: 2003 Jetcraft 2125 - Yamaha 150 HP & 8 HP Kicker


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