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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > Where to put generator in 21' travel trailer

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TurnThePage

North ID

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Posted: 08/07/20 11:41am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Shorter trailers will have much less bounce back there. I think you can do it. I put a rack on the tongue of my trailer for the generator and decided it was just too much work to get the generator all the way up there, not to mention the extra noise from it being so elevated.

As long as it's secured firmly to the frame and doesn't offset the tongue weight too much, it sounds like a good option to me.


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GordonThree

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Posted: 08/07/20 02:46pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I often carry my Yamaha generator in the shower. With the fuel cap and carb valve set to off, never had a problem with gasoline smells.


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aguablanco

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Posted: 08/07/20 07:19pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I just installed the Mount n Lock arms and Safety Struts on my rear bumper and, so far, I couldn't be happier. I would post a couple of pics if I could. Look this product up and I think your problem will be solved. If you read the reviews on a website with the same name as a South American river you will see my pics of my Champion generator and 2 five gallon cans.
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mr_andyj

Georgia

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Posted: 08/14/20 10:17am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

as many have stated, the 4 inch square sewer tube is not a frame member and not suitable.

What kind of dinky sissy frame must you guys be towing around that cannot handle a little generator? Most trailer frames would have no problem with 1,000 lbs or more loaded to it. Everything behind the trailer axle is supported by the frame alone, so it is built to handle weight. Almost anyone who can weld will be able to figure out where to weld to the frame, so the "frame" concerns are just getting repetitive and silly.

The only issue will be the quality of the welding done to modify it.

There is no warranty concerns, that is another silly thing. Trailer frames do not break off at the rear, this would be rare and strange. Welding will weaken the steel as all welds do, but this is not a concern for this application. Whatever warranty exist, say if the trailer tongue breaks, the factory is not going to blame a weld all the way at the back of the trailer as the culprit. Just stop the sillyness!

Sway increases as the trailer gets longer and longer behind the axle. Adding more weight to the back may or may not make it sway. Moving some interior weight forward can counter the weight of the generator if needed.

Gulfcoast

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Posted: 08/14/20 01:49pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

No way I would have a generator mounted above the propane tanks.... Just 12" away from the head of the bed.

Waynrdude

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Posted: 01/19/21 03:42pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I did a nice job of fabricating reinforcement on my rear bumper, even adding 2 inch angle iron on the 7" I beam of my RBS225 Shawdow Cruiser. I bought an Harbor Freight aluminum carrier and surrounded it with a U shaped 2x2 inch tubing and used three bumper mount 2x2 receivers that are attached by u bolts that come with the three hitches. I added two trays on the ends of the top of the bumper for two 95 amp AGM batteries and mounted the spare on it. The Champion 2800 generator sits on also. I have never got the trailer to pull right. I have two friction sway bars in addition to the two torsion bars for lift. The best pulling is with a full tank of gas and extra 5 gallon water cans in the back of my Suburban, that is when it pulls the best, if I stay at 60 mph or less. More than 60 or if a medium size truck like a U Hall comes by it sets up oscillation back and forth to I have to nearly slow to a stop. I have a theory that the slick bottom of the trailer acts as an airplane wing and lifts up on the trailer and that is when I have the problem. I have been tempted to put the $100 mud flap in the hitch across the rear of the Suburban to break up the air stream under the trailer.


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time2roll

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Posted: 01/19/21 04:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My 700 watt propane generator fits under the dinette seat. But then I don't really use it much... or ever. Would be just to keep the battery charged.
I think it is under 30 pounds so it could probably just get strapped to the existing bumper.


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Fisherman

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Posted: 01/19/21 05:28pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Maybe some of you naysayers should go see your local high school physics teacher and have him explain what happens when you add weight, not at the pivot point which would be the trailer axle but more likely 7-8 feet behind the pivot point. If it's a 50lb genny, at the axle it would exert 50 lbs, at distance of 7 feet it would exert about 350 lbs, be it down due to gravity or add that amount to sway, something not desirable.

* This post was edited 01/19/21 05:36pm by Fisherman *

1320Fastback

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Posted: 01/19/21 07:33pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Have a fabricator make a custom mount to put it on the tongue above the batteries and propane tanks. You want more tongue weight for safety reasons. Also if its a propane fuel generator you could leave it permanently connected to the tanks and never have to deal with gas.


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klutchdust

Orange, California

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Posted: 01/21/21 09:31am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

"Doing such a mod, will likely void the frame warranty if something happens. "

Curious as to how many trailers have had frame issues that were under warranty. I have seen two fifth wheels with cracks

up front but that was after many years of service and loaded to their maximum weight rating constantly. A 21 foot trailer has

what two main frame rails and some crossmembers. Any issues that do come up, and highly unlikely, could be repaired by

the fabricator making your hitch. As a professional mechanic and welding since I was a kid I have some background. I say do it.

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