RV.Net Open Roads Forum: General RVing Issues: Water refill when dry camping

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in General RVing Issues

Open Roads Forum  >  General RVing Issues

 > Water refill when dry camping

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 4  
Prev  |  Next
Sponsored By:
corvettekent

Marysville, WA

Senior Member

Joined: 09/21/2014

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 08/28/20 10:10am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

On my 6 gallon water jug I removed the white shut off valve and installed a PVC pipe with a male garden hose fitting from Home Depot. Now I can attach my water hose to the jug and set the jug on the bed rail of my truck. About 5 gallons will drain into the water tank then I need to hole the jug over my head to get the last gallon of water into my tank. No pump needed and I don't get wet.


2007.5 GMC Dually EC/LB, LMM. Banks IQ, Speed Brake, Six Gun. B&W Turnover Ball, Companion Hitch, Amp power steps. Hadley Air horns.

2004 32' Carriage 5th wheel. 860 watts of solar MPPT and four 6 volt batteries. Samlex 2,000 watt Pure Sine Wave Inverter.


ajriding

st clair

Senior Member

Joined: 12/28/2004

View Profile



Posted: 08/28/20 10:13am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My solution is those 5 gallon jugs that have a tube that can draw water off the bottom of the jug. It has a garden hose thread as a cap and you can attach a hose, or make one out of vinyl tubing and hose end repair pieces (so you dont get that hose taste).
A water bag with any way to attach a hose to it will work too as bags do not need gravity to empty.

To do this I had to splice in a 3-way "T" upstream from the water pump, thats between the pump and the RV water tank. This can be a "selector" valve, or what I ended up with is two ball valves, one on each pipe, one pipe from the RV tank and one pipe from the portable jug.

I jut put the jug on the floor near the RV pump and pull from the jug. My vinyl hose can just be pulled out when needed, or coiled back up when not. The ball valve is at the very end, so it does not lose water when detached.

The ball valve I used is from HD and in the PEX isle. Probably 3/8 pipe size. Brass. You can get a selector valve from RV supply also that are made for hot water heater bypass so should let you chose which pipe to open, but the PEX ball valve let me close the end of the hose so worked for me, and also made it easy to slide a vinyl tube over the valve conncetion.

I close or open these valves depending which source I need to pull water from.

I pull from the portable first before using the RV tanks.

This is similar to the solution of the diagram above, but is a little more closed-system, and I can always have a full RV tank if I am able to keep filling the jug. This is nice for boondocking as you always know you have a full tank when the water spigot runs dry or you don't have access to one...

wnjj

Cornelius, Oregon

Senior Member

Joined: 01/11/2007

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 08/28/20 10:27pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Lynnmor wrote:

I can't understand why folks won't use a pump that is already there. A check valve, clamps and a tee were the only purchased items.

While your setup is slick how it's self-contained, an additional pump serves as a spare and can shared by the other family members we almost always camp with. It can move to a new RV without doing anything. Also, some people just aren't comfortable with cutting into factory plumbing when you can get by without.

I use a spare (given to me free) pump wired with a 2-pin SAE connector. This plugs nicely into the spare set of battery clamps that came with my multi-station battery tender. It also plugs into a 4-pin trailer adapter and allows it to be powered from any trailer socket's tail lights pin. I added a short piece of tubing for intake and a garden hose thread for the output.

The benefit of a portable pump is you can bring it to the source, for example a water tank in a cargo trailer, truck bed, etc. It can push water through as much hose as you have more readily than pulling using the built-in RV pump. You can use it to pump water to put out the campfire or whatever else you may need.

* This post was edited 08/29/20 02:33am by wnjj *

howardwheeler

West, Texas

Senior Member

Joined: 07/23/2007

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 08/29/20 01:29pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Just as someone mentioned earlier that they did, I, too, have water bladders (two 45 gallon ones) that I will put in the back of the pickup and go somewhere with water pressure to fill. I then have my old water pump (it came with the trailer but was replaced with one of more power) to pump the water from the bladders into the freshwater tank. I went ahead and permanently installed my extra pump and hardwired it in just for ease. I open my water compartment, hook the hose from the bladder to the pump and stick the outlet hose into my freshwater fill. Then I just flip a switch, and it fills in about ten minutes for each bladder, but you don't have to watch it since the pump can run dry without harm.

ivbinconned

highway 16

Senior Member

Joined: 09/27/2003

View Profile



Posted: 08/29/20 04:24pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

[image]


Ram and 34 ft Cedar Creek

cougar28

Lowell,AR USA

Senior Member

Joined: 01/03/2003

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 08/29/20 07:03pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ivbinconned wrote:

[image]


What's the bucket looking thing on the ground around the landing gear foot for?


2002 F-250 SD CC 7.3PSD Auto. XLT Short Bed 4X4 Off-Rd.Pkg.Highland Green,Westin Sportsman Grille Guard (Black) RBW Li'l Rocker Slider ,Prodigy Control Towing Jayco Eagle HT 30.5 MLOK,Handy 5er tailgate

mr_andyj

Georgia

Full Member

Joined: 11/13/2004

View Profile



Posted: 08/29/20 07:44pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

cougar28 wrote:

What's the bucket looking thing on the ground around the landing gear foot for?


haha, that looks like a cut out milk jug or something to keep his stabilazation foot from getting icky in the mud

ivbinconned

highway 16

Senior Member

Joined: 09/27/2003

View Profile



Posted: 08/30/20 07:29am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It’s a metal 5 gal pail cut down with some cooking oil in it.
A barrier to help prevent mice and bugs from getting in.

Sjm9911

New Jersey

Senior Member

Joined: 07/01/2020

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 08/30/20 07:44am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

wnjj wrote:

Lynnmor wrote:

I can't understand why folks won't use a pump that is already there. A check valve, clamps and a tee were the only purchased items.

While your setup is slick how it's self-contained, an additional pump serves as a spare and can shared by the other family members we almost always camp with. It can move to a new RV without doing anything. Also, some people just aren't comfortable with cutting into factory plumbing when you can get by without.

I use a spare (given to me free) pump wired with a 2-pin SAE connector. This plugs nicely into the spare set of battery clamps that came with my multi-station battery tender. It also plugs into a 4-pin trailer adapter and allows it to be powered from any trailer socket's tail lights pin. I added a short piece of tubing for intake and a garden hose thread for the output.

The benefit of a portable pump is you can bring it to the source, for example a water tank in a cargo trailer, truck bed, etc. It can push water through as much hose as you have more readily than pulling using the built-in RV pump. You can use it to pump water to put out the campfire or whatever else you may need.


Just to add for some its not an option. My TT is set up like that from the factory. To fill the fresh water tank you have to use the interior pump if you are not on city water. I have no gravity fill. The problem is the pump is under the couch. The couch is under the rear bed slide. It works if im allready set up. But it make it impossible to fill on the road or when pulling in. ( yes it will fill on city water if i remember to set the shutoffs to the correct position to divert the water, but they are located with the pump and inaccessible). I would like another option, be it hand held drill, or pump. Lots of ways to do it.


2012 kz spree 220 ks
2020 Silverado 2500
Equalizer ( because i have it)
Formerly a pup owner.

skipnchar

Topeka or somewhere else

Senior Member

Joined: 12/17/2003

View Profile



Posted: 08/30/20 08:13am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Lots of good ideas here. I always took the simple route. My 6 gallon cans (I carried 6 of them) all have built in pour spouts and are vented so YES they are a PITA but at least it becomes a one person job.


2011 F-150 HD Ecoboost 3.5 V6. 2550 payload, 17,100 GCVWR -
2004 F-150 HD (Traded after 80,000 towing miles)
2007 Rockwood 8314SS 34' travel trailer

US Govt survey shows three out of four people make up 75% of the total population


Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 4  
Prev  |  Next

Open Roads Forum  >  General RVing Issues

 > Water refill when dry camping
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in General RVing Issues


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:




© 2021 CWI, Inc. © 2021 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.