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Open Roads Forum  >  Truck Campers

 > Pure Sine Wave Inverters best quality manufacturers?

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time2roll

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Posted: 09/03/20 08:53pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have and recommend GoPower inverter at this level. Low idle draw and a provision to add a remote switch. I have the 300 watt but the 600 should serve you well.

https://www.boatandrvaccessories.com/cat........s/shop-by-brand/go-power/power-inverters


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DWeikert

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Posted: 09/03/20 09:20pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I use a Xantrex ProWatt 600 and added their remote panel to turn it on or off from the bed.

Edit: Spelling

* This post was edited 09/04/20 10:19am by DWeikert *


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JimK-NY

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Posted: 09/03/20 09:33pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

JoeChiOhki wrote:

JimK-NY wrote:

What are you planning on running with this pure sine wave inverter?


Mostly the same stuff we were running off the Modified, small electronics (TV, roku, laptops, low load stuff) and the 2-way fridge while driving (We have a whole change over circuit that switches a block of outlets between the short power outlet and the inverter circuit.


I fail to see the need. My TV runs on 12volts. I have laptop and cellphone chargers that are 12 volt. My wife's CPAP runs on 12 volt. The refrigerator is 12 volts. About all that remains are camera and flashgun battery chargers and I have a small, cheapie, non-sine wave inverter for charging them.

JoeChiOhki

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Posted: 09/03/20 10:39pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks everyone, I've narrowed it down to the 700 watt Go Power, the 600 Watt Samlex, and the 600 watt Xantrex. I looked at the 600 watt Bestek Pure, but it looked rather diminutive compared to its competitors, so I'm not sure it would have the same longevity as the other three.

My only dislike is all of the nicer units use GFCI outlets directly on the inverters and GFCIs tend to fail over time. I usually prefer to have the GFCI as an independent component that can be readily replaced if it fails.

All three have remote control switches, with the Samlex one displaying some other info aside from on/off.

They all appear to use the same phone cable type connection for linking the remote switch to the unit, I just need to confirm if the pin out on that phone cable is just stock phone line or something unique to their devices.

As, the cables listed on the remote switches are 15' long and I will need a longer one due to the route the wire will need to take to get from the inverter up into the cabover bedroom wall above the sink (Most of the camper controls are on this wall so that they're easily visible and accessible).


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JoeChiOhki

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Posted: 09/03/20 10:57pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

JimK-NY wrote:

JoeChiOhki wrote:

JimK-NY wrote:

What are you planning on running with this pure sine wave inverter?


Mostly the same stuff we were running off the Modified, small electronics (TV, roku, laptops, low load stuff) and the 2-way fridge while driving (We have a whole change over circuit that switches a block of outlets between the short power outlet and the inverter circuit.


I fail to see the need. My TV runs on 12volts. I have laptop and cellphone chargers that are 12 volt. My wife's CPAP runs on 12 volt. The refrigerator is 12 volts. About all that remains are camera and flashgun battery chargers and I have a small, cheapie, non-sine wave inverter for charging them.


Your refrigerator may be 12 volts, mine is thermo-mechanical and 40+ years old (Its a 1974 Swedish made electrolux Ammonia Absorption Fridge that uses a flint striker to light the burner), as this is going in a 1975 Camper that I've been restoring. The fridge has no control circuit like new units, and if it blows out, its out. It only has a 110volt electrical element and a gas burner and there's no provision to add a 12volt element.

At this point I'm simply replicating the solution I'd used for about six years in my 1974 KIT that the 1975 Amerigo is replacing and moving the very dependable electrolux into the Amerigo. For optimal cooling, I setup my rig with a lift gate 100amp 12 volt system for the charge circuit and created a two switchable system that allowed me to swap part of the camper (one circuit) between the inverter feed and the shore power feed, which allowed me to drive the 110volt heating element off my 400 watt modified sinewave inverter in the KIT.

Since I had this nice switching circuit, it enabled me to purchase better quality standard electronics, such as the mini-Nas/Plex server, plus the Roku and a decent LED flat screen TV for the bed room (Which gave us a nice tidy and tiny digital movie library for watching when we wanted to chill in bed or for my wife to watch if the area we're driving through doesn't really interest her as she can connect to it wirelessly and stream movies or TV without needing the internet). All of which will be going into the Amerigo as I swap the extra tech from the KIT in.

We use our camper for more than camping, as well. It gets used as a portable dressing room for when we do costume performances at different conventions, and the extra niceties are good for when the camper is parked on the side of a street near a convention center.

* This post was edited 09/04/20 12:39am by JoeChiOhki *

theoldwizard1

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Posted: 09/04/20 05:22am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Quick addition to my previous technical discussion.

A 24V inverter should cost significantly less than a 12V inverter because the transformer is smaller, or at least has less copper.

JimK-NY

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Posted: 09/04/20 06:07am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Joe, sorry if I sounded critical. I merely want to suggest looking at using an inverter as little as possible and getting the smallest inverter that will work. As I am sure you know, inverters can waste a lot of battery power but it seems that is not an issue for you.

Kayteg1

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Posted: 09/04/20 07:42am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Almost a year ago I bought cheap, pure sine inverter on ebay.
It is rated at 4000W peak and I am using it to power my refrigerator while driving and coffeemaker or ovens whenever I need them.
So far I put ca 100 hr on it and it does the job. Since I have long cables, running oven will trigger alarm after few minutes and that is the moment I have to start the engine for extra power.
So the only benefit of spending more than $96 for higher-end inverter I could see is slightly better efficiency, but then there is no easy way to measure it.
Funny part, inverter come with factory cables about 2 ft long. They are #8 wire.
I am also observing inverter/chargers as those would simplify converter and transfer switch setup, but those still keep high prices.

* This post was edited 09/04/20 07:49am by Kayteg1 *





theoldwizard1

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Posted: 09/04/20 08:41am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Kayteg1 wrote:

Funny part, inverter come with factory cables about 2 ft long. They are #8 wire.

I have noticed that also ! You would be better off getting rid of those cables and getting some larger cables. If you think you would ever be close to pulling 4000W that would be be over 300A ! Even a more realistic 3000W would be well over 200A !! For that load, I would want at least a #2 wire .


Kayteg1 wrote:

I am also observing inverter/chargers as those would simplify converter and transfer switch setup, but those still keep high prices.

True ! Converter no longer required. They are easier to install and with a built in automatic transfer switch there is nothing to "switch on".

time2roll

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Posted: 09/04/20 08:43am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My 300 watt GoPower has powered my fridge just fine in transit. I used a transfer switch on the branch circuit needed instead of powering up the entire panel.

https://www.donrowe.com/KISAE-TS15A-Automatic-Transfer-Switch-p/ts15a.htm

I prefer separate components. Easier to bypass and replace when something fails.

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