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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > Jumper Cables A Jumble Of Compromises

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MEXICOWANDERER

las peñas, michoacan, mexico

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Posted: 09/11/20 10:17am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I've had an unused 30 feet of 4 AWG DLO cable sitting around for a number of years. I have decided to make jumper cables. DLO cable is the thickest and toughest insulation of them all and the conductor is double thickness tin-plated rope stranded. The cable is too heavy for me but put to commercial use, with super quality ends (clamps) they should be a forever set of commercial jumper cables.

But I'm going to ask for advice from folks who have made up their own cables recently.

Since the wire stranding toll is to be squashed then soldered about the only stuff that is concerning is the fastener that holds the cable wire to the jaw clip. I will use 8awg silicone wire as a jaw to jaw shunt.

The pesky huge spring will have to be pried open and the cable slipped beneath by a friend younger and stronger than me.

Have you encountered super clips on the market?

K Charles

Connecticut

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Posted: 09/11/20 01:18pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ADT7976 is 4 gauge 500 amp





pigman1

Delaware

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Posted: 09/11/20 03:58pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Not sure what you're asking. 4ga DLO cable is stranded so you can either hook it mechanically to jumper cable ends available at auto supply stores, solder it, or have someone swedge the wire to cable eye pieces and bolt these to the clamps. I can believe the insulation on this cable is stiff, but I just don't understand the question. Could you please elaborate?


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MEXICOWANDERER

las peñas, michoacan, mexico

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Posted: 09/11/20 04:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Being in Mexico, jumper cables are assembled Chinese copper plated toy steel clamps and 8 gauge copper-plated aluminum super thick vinyl insulation. There is an ad on Amazon for a seventy+ dollar PAIR (I need four) of Associated clamps that look good. $150.00 for four clamps seemed sorta pricey.

DLO insulation itself is great but specs call for it to be thick. Which shrugs off cuts, and nicks. And makes it a lot heavier. This is going to be a gift for a beefy 38-year-old mechanic and his tow truck. Connections will be mechanically crimped. Then the entire wire tip and the serrated copper pad are going to be dipped into molten lead. This stops battery acid corrosion and salt air corrosion forever. After that, the cable and the coated tip is slid up the handle under the wire spring and screwed into place. I have the 316 stainless 10/28 screws.

Like the Borg and the Gigawatt when I build something it is likely to endure many decades of commercial use and laugh it off.

But since 1980 many companies have gone under. If I wanted to buy "The Best" commercially made battery charger I would choose the Associated Twelve hundred dollar unit. But I build chargers that run circles around the Associated and will outlast them. But no 150 dollar clamps, please. [emoticon]







being

Ivylog

Blairsville, GA and WPB, FL.

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Posted: 09/12/20 06:02am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Split the cable/wires into two leads of 4” each and fasten to each side of the clamp...soldier if possibly.


This post is my opinion (free advice). It is not intended to influence anyone's judgment nor do I advocate anyone do what I propose.

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theoldwizard1

SE MI

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Posted: 09/12/20 09:54am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The best you can buy ! Mueller BU-102B NOT CHEAP !

Spridle

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Posted: 09/12/20 06:05pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

This is what i used.
Goodall Clamps

However I used the 1/0 size

MEXICOWANDERER

las peñas, michoacan, mexico

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Posted: 09/14/20 11:45am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I decided on parrot jaw solid copper clamps. The manufacturer put a 900-amp rating on them which in fact is useless. The 4-gauge cable will be soldered directly through a clip and an 8-gauge shunt wire will be used.

After assembly, I will apply multiple coats of Rust-o-leum to the clamp. Inside and out. Thick bed liner, hopefully getting 5 mil thickness. The grips will be pushed on.

The jaw grip teeth will have been coated with 100% lead, so no acid deterioration hopefully for many years.

Unless they are lost or stolen these cables will be jump-starting, long after I am feeding a tree. [emoticon]


Thanks for your help everyone. Yes, I did research every single suggestion in this thread. BTW the clips cost $17.95 each. 100% copper except the spring

frankwp

Calgary, AB, Canada

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Posted: 09/14/20 02:56pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Just thinking, #4 is not very heavy for a jumper cable unless they are short. How long are you making them?


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MEXICOWANDERER

las peñas, michoacan, mexico

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Posted: 09/14/20 04:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

12 feet 24 feet total

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