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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > Check fuse in Ford Power Distribution Box

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ezgoin

Sunny Arizona

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Posted: 09/15/20 05:15pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi all,
Just drove 2 days from Phoenix to Colorado with new Stay-in-Play break controller and arrived with a dead battery on Jeep Wrangler. Called installer and he said to check 30 amp fuse on coach that feeds power to tow vehicle. Coach is 2014 Ford F53. Manual shows fuse 13 is 30 amp “Trailer Tow Electric Break Controller Feed”, so I assume that’s the one I need to check. It’s under the hood of the coach in the Power Distribution Box which says to disconnect battery cable before removing the cover to expose fuses. I’m not the most tech savvy person around so I don’t feel comfortable trying to open (and not be able to close) the cover.

Since Jeep battery was dead I had to replace it because it couldn’t hold A charge after jumping it. Now I am concerned that if I can’t check the fuse i will end up having to replace a new battery if it dies going 2 days back home.

Suggestions?

Bill


The older I get....the better I was.

Bill & Terry
And our canine kids, Skippy & Peanut
2014 Fleetwood Bounder Classic 30T
2016 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Toad


pauldub

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Posted: 09/15/20 06:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Leave the batt connected and just open the cover and check the fuse. If for some reason you can't get the cover back on, it probably won't matter.

BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 09/15/20 07:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have not towed a toad, so pardon my ignorance. But this all seems really strange.

1. Why would the toad's battery be needed for anything and go flat after two days ?

2. The brake controller when towing a trailer does not use the trailer's battery. What is the story with your MH and toad?

3. The trailer's lights get power from the towing vehicle via the 7-pin. Not the same with a MH and toad?

So what is the story here? (curious in case I get a toad)

Anyway, even if you do find and replace the fuse, and that was the problem, so what? You need to know what blew it. Is your "installer" to be trusted????


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ezgoin

Sunny Arizona

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Posted: 09/15/20 08:01pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BFL13 wrote:

I have not towed a toad, so pardon my ignorance. But this all seems really strange.

1. Why would the toad's battery be needed for anything and go flat after two days ?

2. The brake controller when towing a trailer does not use the trailer's battery. What is the story with your MH and toad?

3. The trailer's lights get power from the towing vehicle via the 7-pin. Not the same with a MH and toad?

So what is the story here? (curious in case I get a toad)

Anyway, even if you do find and replace the fuse, and that was the problem, so what? You need to know what blew it. Is your "installer" to be trusted????


BFL13,
My ignorance is just as bad, so we don’t need any forgiveness.

Your questions pretty much mirror mine. I had to replace my old Stay-in-Play brake controller several months ago, using the same installer as the old one.
So what changed? Same brand of controller....same installer, maybe a different employee? The original worked fine.....the new one is causing the problem.

Sounds like installer issue. What changed on the MH? Nothing!

My problem is I had to replace the depleted battery and now am faced with another 2 day drive going home. What if the new battery dies over 2 days going home?

I can’t say I have much trust with the installer after this trip. When I called them and explained what happened, he said check fuses. I, like you, would question IF a fuse blew, what caused it to blow if nothing changed between old unit and new one?

Stay tuned.

Bill

BFL13

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Posted: 09/15/20 08:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would try it out with the toad's battery disconnected and see if the signal lights etc work. If so, I would just drive it home that way, where the MH brakes will stop the whole set, if not too crazy a situation.

ISTR towing a car you turn the key to part way on or something so it is in Neutral? That might drain the battery. Not a clue, sorry.

ezgoin

Sunny Arizona

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Posted: 09/15/20 08:25pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I’m leaning towards an installer problem. When the brake controller activates while braking, a LED lights up on coach dash, letting me know it’s working, and that indicator light worked flawlessly. If it was only getting power from the toad battery (which was dead), it wouldn’t be working.

I’ll give the installer another call tomorrow and see what develops. If his problem, he pays for the new battery!

BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 09/15/20 08:41pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If it all worked with the toad battery dead, it should work with it disconnected for going home.

However, it may be that there are wires that meet on the toad's battery posts that need to be connected for it all to work, even if the battery is dead.

You can beat that by disconnecting the battery, but connect the wires that go on each of its two posts together with two vice grips or some way (nut and bolt), so there is still a pos and a neg "path" for what's needed.

No need to drain the new battery if you do that. ?

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