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Octaneforce

Long island

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Posted: 09/30/20 02:11pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Heisenberg wrote:

Loose neutral.


Yep thats what it was. Looks like the neutral for the main was barely touching. Can i just cut back the fried ends of the wires and put all the neutrals in a wirenut instead of using the busbar? Its only like 6 wires


1993 fleetwood coronado 30’ class a chuggin along with a tbi 454
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enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

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Posted: 09/30/20 03:09pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would not put six wires in a wire nut. Could put up to four including the one to panel.
Make sure the wire is large enough to carry the full load of separate wires. May need something like number 6.
Your photo is covering your link. Would you edit post so I can pull up image? Would like to get better view.


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Octaneforce

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Posted: 09/30/20 03:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

[image]

MrWizard

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Posted: 09/30/20 03:28pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

That's Ugly
That neutral bar should never ever be that hot
Check the main neutral/white from the distribution breaker panel to both sides of the transfer switch, then all the way to the end of the shore cord

I wouldn't be surprised, if you find damage at every connection point

Shore cord and generator will meet at the transfer switch

* This post was last edited 09/30/20 03:50pm by MrWizard *   View edit history


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enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

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Posted: 09/30/20 03:33pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for fixing photo!
You could get by with smaller wire then my other post. A number 10 would suffice.
Cut the wire back until you find good copper with no burnt spots.
Get some electrical de-oxidation grease to go on before installing wire nut or connector of your choice.
There could be some slack in the cables behind the power center.
You were very lucky that you had no fire!

wa8yxm

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Posted: 09/30/20 04:52pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

One of the joke/not jokes I tell is that we RVers often have a few screws loose.

And when the screws in that photo are loose.. The effect is also shown in said photo. (Yes I'm talking about THOSE screws).


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DrewE

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Posted: 09/30/20 04:59pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would recommend against a wire nut here. Getting six or so wires simultaneously well-connected in a wire nut is not as easy as it looks, and they can sometimes work lose in high vibration environments (especially if not taped to prevent unscrewing).

Replacement bus bars and their mounting brackets should be available (they're more or less standard parts, even if not specifically designed for this particular electrical distribution panel); put one in, trim back the burnt/discolored portions of the wires, and attach the good parts firmly and properly to a new bus bar. If the wires are too short for this, you'll have to do some more extensive rework--maybe as simple as removing some slack from behind the electric panel.





Octaneforce

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Posted: 09/30/20 05:09pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

These electrical components were definitely not built to be serviceable. Im going to have to cut open the inside of the medicine cabinet to access behind the panel and then pray that theres enough slack to fix this properly. Really amazing advice here

enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

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Posted: 09/30/20 05:20pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Don't cut new openings!
There should be about 4-6 screws holding the box in the wall. Remove screws and see if you can pull it out.
Two screws show in the photo on left side.

garry1p

Oklahoma

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Posted: 09/30/20 05:55pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Notice he neutral buss bar is isolated from the frame.

When you replace the neutral buss bar be sure the new one is isolated from the frame as the original.


Garry1p


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