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 > Gremllin in my water pump.

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Yosemite Sam1

Under the pines.

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Posted: 10/01/20 07:32am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My water pump stopped working after a Doran Beach camping.

And immediately, as we tech and mechanically challenged do, checked on the fuse.

Well, the fuse did not blow up. But noticed that it was 10 Amp while the panel cover says it should have 15.

Bought and replaced the fuse promptly with a 15 Amp.

And the water pump started humming again.

Every electrician I know, only one, my son, an Assistant Chief Enngineer at a big hospital at the CA Bay Area, said that if the fuse did not blow up, it could not have been the cause.

So, it must be the gremlin.[emoticon]

agesilaus

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Posted: 10/01/20 07:42am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

How did you check the fuse, just a visual inspection may not reveal a blown fuse you need to use a meter to check the resistance.


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Yosemite Sam1

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Posted: 10/01/20 08:13am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

agesilaus wrote:

How did you check the fuse, just a visual inspection may not reveal a blown fuse you need to use a meter to check the resistance.


I did not bother finding out it was under-rated and may give out anyways when it's most inconvenient, lol.[emoticon]

Old-Biscuit

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Posted: 10/01/20 09:44am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Yosemite Sam1 wrote:

agesilaus wrote:

How did you check the fuse, just a visual inspection may not reveal a blown fuse you need to use a meter to check the resistance.


I did not bother finding out it was under-rated and may give out anyways when it's most inconvenient, lol.[emoticon]


True
BUT blown under rated fuse could have been the gremlin

Visual inspection can miss a blown fuse many times
Question is....why did it blow
Cause it was under rated OR because pump motor is drawing to much amperage ?????


Is it time for your medication or mine?


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Yosemite Sam1

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Posted: 10/01/20 10:12am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Old-Biscuit wrote:

Yosemite Sam1 wrote:

agesilaus wrote:

How did you check the fuse, just a visual inspection may not reveal a blown fuse you need to use a meter to check the resistance.


I did not bother finding out it was under-rated and may give out anyways when it's most inconvenient, lol.[emoticon]


True
BUT blown under rated fuse could have been the gremlin

Visual inspection can miss a blown fuse many times
Question is....why did it blow
Cause it was under rated OR because pump motor is drawing to much amperage ?????


To my simple non-electrical engineer mind, the fact that it was under-rated is already a concern as it could fail anytime. My question is, why did the manufacturer even do that?

wopachop

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Posted: 10/01/20 10:54am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My water pump says to use 10a. The fuse is wired right next to the pump.

I think you're looking at your electrical panel and someone wrote 15a on the label?

craz z

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Posted: 10/01/20 10:58am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Recently just went through this.

old shurflo 2088-403-144 original pump that was standard in everything. switched to the the same thing in the updated model. shurflo revolution series.

the hum is more then likely the microswitch. if you wiggle the pump wire where the switch lives on the pump from the chassis it might run normal then go back to humming.

I was in a need to use the pump situation and wired directly to the pump bypassing the switch (2 wires on the motor itself +and-). Problem with this is you have to use the switch in your rv to control the pressure. (not good, but works in a bind.)

to further diagnose your pump wire direct to the motor and see if it works. bypassing the switch.

the microswitch is a omron switch that when pressured up opens the contact turning off the pump. they are replaceable for like 10$ on amazon. overtime it looks like water migrates in switch housing and corrodes the switch thus not making proper contact. thus humming begins. It won't draw enough amps to blow the fuse.

My issue was the pump was leaking at its seals and needed replaced anyway so i bought a new 70$ pump. My pump was in a terrible location and i moved it to a easier spot.

Bottomline your buying a new pump or try to dissassemble your pump and replace your microswitch

here is a switch link microswitch

in the picures on this listing you can see one wire comes from pump motor into switch other wire is chassis positive.

* This post was last edited 10/01/20 11:28am by craz z *   View edit history

Old-Biscuit

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Posted: 10/01/20 11:19am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Look up the specs on your brand/model of pump
Probably lists 7.5a or 10a

Pump stopped working but started working when you swapped fuses from 10A to 15A
That is because the 10A fuse had blown

Shurflo 4008 requires Minimum 10A Fuse (7.5A full load)
Shurflo 4048 requires Minimum 10A Fuse (9a full load)
Course that is with correct wire size.....12ga recommended

AquaJet ARV & AES Series...15A Fuse
AquaJet ES Series....10A Fuse


So what is your pump???

Yosemite Sam1

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Posted: 10/01/20 12:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks everyone for the input. I'll check into those as my son promised to look into it when he comes visit us.

He also suspected the fuse is blown and it is just not apparent by just looking at it through the red cloudy plastic case. He said it is still supposed to continue working if the fuse has not blown.

Dutch_12078

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Posted: 10/01/20 02:49pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I've seen fuses used in mobile applications fail over time just from vibration. The giveaway when the fuse is dissected is that the fuse wire is detached from one end cap with no signs of any arcing. Glass fuses seem to be the most prone to that.


Dutch
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