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 > Leveling a Class C?

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bobndot

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Posted: 11/13/20 12:03pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

That was my approach too, until i made this purchase. It came this way , i had no choice and would not have spent the money on them.

They did hang too low, the rears, the fronts are fine. I had to cut the mounts on the rears to tuck them a little higher into the frame. They have been fine since. It is one more thing to go wrong though.

I like the manual mode to be the better option over the ‘auto mode’ to level it. The auto mode makes the entire rv too high, creating a tall step in and out.

I still carry blocks with me, you never know with this quality gadgetry.

Gjac

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Posted: 11/13/20 01:07pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

bobndot wrote:

That was my approach too, until i made this purchase. It came this way , i had no choice and would not have spent the money on them.

They did hang too low, the rears, the fronts are fine. I had to cut the mounts on the rears to tuck them a little higher into the frame. They have been fine since. It is one more thing to go wrong though.

I like the manual mode to be the better option over the ‘auto mode’ to level it. The auto mode makes the entire rv too high, creating a tall step in and out.

I still carry blocks with me, you never know with this quality gadgetry.
Will the MH rock too much if you don't put the jacks down? Or is the suspension on these lighter weight C's good enough to keep it from rocking when you move inside or the wind blows?

bobndot

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Posted: 11/13/20 05:11pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Its stiff enough for us, its fine without them. If we have a level site, we don't use the jacks. I have a set of bubble levels installed in the cab, i can view them from the drivers seat. I just position the rv until its level. I don't use the jacks very often.

We use our rv all the time for day trips. We are used to not using the jacks and don't notice a ‘wow’ factor when we do. We go places during the week and eat dinner in it for a change of scenery during covid. It has to be really gusty for the winds to rock us.

pnichols

The Other California

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Posted: 11/13/20 05:15pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Gjac wrote:

bobndot wrote:

That was my approach too, until i made this purchase. It came this way , i had no choice and would not have spent the money on them.

They did hang too low, the rears, the fronts are fine. I had to cut the mounts on the rears to tuck them a little higher into the frame. They have been fine since. It is one more thing to go wrong though.

I like the manual mode to be the better option over the ‘auto mode’ to level it. The auto mode makes the entire rv too high, creating a tall step in and out.

I still carry blocks with me, you never know with this quality gadgetry.
Will the MH rock too much if you don't put the jacks down? Or is the suspension on these lighter weight C's good enough to keep it from rocking when you move inside or the wind blows?


We have no rock at all using blocks under the tires - which means the springs are still supporting the coach - unlike with jacks which are mounted right on the frame (I think?).

However, our small 24 ft Class C is on the Ford E450 chassis, instead of the E350 chassis that most Ford-based small Class C motorhomes are built on. This extra suspension stiffness is enough to make for a pretty solid feeling coach when walking around in it.


Phil, 2005 E450 Itasca Spirit 24V

coolmom42

Middle Tennessee

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Posted: 11/13/20 09:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for all the input, folks.

I'm accustomed to Anderson levelers with a trailer. Any input on those for a class C?


Single empty-nester in Middle TN, sometimes with a friend or grandchild on board

coolmom42

Middle Tennessee

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Posted: 11/13/20 09:37pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

pnichols wrote:

coolmom42 wrote:

bobndot wrote:

You need to keep the rear tires on the ground due to the parking brake holds the rv from rolling. Its ok to use the rears just don't over do it and stress the jacks.


Jacks? What jacks? I don't have leveling jacks and they are not really common on smaller C's as best as I can tell.

And if the rear tires have to stay on the ground, and the rear is too low, how can a person level up?

Not clear to me what you are saying here.


We don't have jacks on our Class C, either. In fact, I would never have them - as their mechanism hangs down too much when retracted and could hang up when we travel off-highway boondock camping.

With leveling blocks of course you can lift up the entire rear end while still having the rear tires (via park gear and the emergency brake) hold the vehicle in place sitting on the blocks and the blocks aren't going to move on the ground with all that weight on them.

My leveling blocks have three step levels and I made them myself out of redwood. I carry five of them along for the worst case situation of having to raise the four tires in the rear and one tire in the front ... which I've had to do a few times.

I position them such that when I drive forward onto them or back up onto them, each tire will wind up being on the proper step of each block (it took a lot of practice to learn how to estimate what the effect of each step level be, level-wise) so as to make the motorhome "about level". I have North-South and East-West levels mounted - one on the dash and one on the driver's side door - so I can monitor both bubbles as I drive slowly up onto the correct block step for each tire.

I "calibrated" the two levels by parking the loaded motorhome on a level surface, and then mounting the bubble levels on the cab dash and driver's side door with their bubbles perfectly centered.

My whole approach above has worked well for us for years.


I would like to see some pics of your homemade blocks.

I'm not a fan of having to stack/pick up all the little plastic blocks. Plus I've found they slip pretty easily, when driving up on them.

bobndot

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Posted: 11/14/20 06:13am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

**park somewhere level, now install a pair of bubble levels inside your rv where you can see them from your drivers seat. Make sure you are level front to rear and side to side.
Having these inexpensive bubble levels installed will allow you to position your rv on sites to the point of being very close to level if not level. Doing this has reduced my need for any additional leveling.


If you need to stop slipping.
Get yourself some rubber sheeting. Cut floor mats to the size you need and place them under the wood or plastic.

Make an incline like a driveway apron. IMO, a 4x4 length, the width of your rear tires and a double wide set of ramps will work.

If that doesn't lift your rv to a comfortable point then you need to find another site or grab a shovel and dig holes for the tires to drop into to lower the needed side.

Dusty R

Charlotte Michigan 48813

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Posted: 11/14/20 06:44am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I glued a round bobble to near the cup holders on the dash.

Dusty

atreis

IN

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Posted: 11/14/20 07:58am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

There are also level apps for smartphones. Install one, calibrate it at home on a known-level surface, then when leveling the trailer/RV start the app and sit it on a surface that should be near level when you're done.


2016 AmeriLite SuperLite 198BH
2008 Toyota Sienna
Hensley Cub


Dusty R

Charlotte Michigan 48813

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Posted: 11/14/20 06:47pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I use 2x6 boards and 4x6's. The 4x6 I cut about a 30 degree tapper on one end so I can drive up it.

Dusty

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