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 > Leveling a Class C?

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Gjac

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Posted: 11/16/20 10:28am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

bobndot wrote:

If you install a set of bubble levels that you see from the drivers seat, like I did or Dusty did, there will little need to level other than move the rv into a suitable position. If you use decent private CG's many will already be level. I seldom use my hydraulic levelers and would not spend $5k for the option.

If you do use wood blocks or plastic blocks, use your awning strap rod to push them in place and attach a rope to them to remove them. Limited bending down.
I have a bubble system on my Class A now and it does help get close but I usually have to put the jacks down. I never go to private CG's mostly NFS or SP's which are usually not very level. Has anyone used air bags to level or say help level using minimal blocks?

pnichols

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Posted: 11/16/20 10:38am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

bobndot wrote:

If you install a set of bubble levels that you see from the drivers seat, like I did or Dusty did, there will little need to level other than move the rv into a suitable position. If you use decent private CG's many will already be level. I seldom use my hydraulic levelers and would not spend $5k for the option.

If you do use wood blocks or plastic blocks, use your awning strap rod to push them in place and attach a rope to them to remove them. Limited bending down.


Using the awning strap rod is a great idea! I'll have to try this, along with the extra thick kneeling pad I use.


Phil, 2005 E450 Itasca Spirit 24V

coolmom42

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Posted: 11/16/20 10:56am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

IAMICHABOD wrote:

I have been using the Tri Levelers for more than 10 years and found that the steps are sufficient to sit level and stable on.

As noted when on the leveler just putting the RV in park and setting the parking brake at the same time will keep it from moving,in all these years I have never had a problem with any movement.

I had a set of wood ones I made up for my previous RV, as pictured above,I found that they were VERY heavy about 24 Lbs each, and hard to stow taking up way to much room.That is why I went the way I did with the Tri Levelers,light weight,easy to stow and I have yet to find a spot that needed any thing larger.


That's good to know.


Single empty-nester in Middle TN, sometimes with a friend or grandchild on board

coolmom42

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Posted: 11/16/20 11:03am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Gjac wrote:

After reading these 3 pages of posts and the 4 pages that Phil posted from IRV2 I guess the real question is when you consider the weight and space these leveling blocks take up in a small Class C, and having to get on your hands and knees to use the blocks would it be better when buying a newer C to buy one with automatic levelers especially for older folks?



You don't have to get on your hands and knees to use any of these varieties. (Believe me, I have 2 knee replacements and kneeling on them is very uncomfortable.) You can just slide them in from the side.

pnichols

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Posted: 11/16/20 06:45pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

coolmom42 wrote:

Gjac wrote:

After reading these 3 pages of posts and the 4 pages that Phil posted from IRV2 I guess the real question is when you consider the weight and space these leveling blocks take up in a small Class C, and having to get on your hands and knees to use the blocks would it be better when buying a newer C to buy one with automatic levelers especially for older folks?



You don't have to get on your hands and knees to use any of these varieties. (Believe me, I have 2 knee replacements and kneeling on them is very uncomfortable.) You can just slide them in from the side.


That's how I place and remove my step blocks. The toughest ones to physically line up correctly are the two inside ones on the rear dual tire sets.

The toughest leveling situation is when different step levels are required between tires at the four vehicle corners - when you of course have to drive forward or backward onto all of them simultaneously and stop just right while looking at the dual bubble sets mounted North-South and East-West in the cab. It took me many camping trips to get proficient at manipulating the three dimensional geometric relationships of this ... but don't despair, one can eventually get pretty fast and good at it!

Desert Captain

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Posted: 11/16/20 08:15pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It sounds like a lot of folks are making this way too hard... [emoticon]

A simple 4 way bubble level that you can see from the drivers seat will usually get you pretty close to level {site permitting} and then a couple of blocks on one side or the other does it.

Works for me but,

As always... Opinions and YMMV.

[emoticon]





pnichols

The Other California

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Posted: 11/16/20 10:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Desert Captain wrote:

It sounds like a lot of folks are making this way too hard... [emoticon]

A simple 4 way bubble level that you can see from the drivers seat will usually get you pretty close to level {site permitting} and then a couple of blocks on one side or the other does it.

Works for me but,

As always... Opinions and YMMV.

[emoticon]


DC, the real challenge comes when you need two blocks on one side and two blocks on one end, and ... the required block height for the one side is different than the required block height for the one end. This can take five step blocks (worst case, four for the rear tires and one for one front tire), and it can take a different step on the blocks used for the rear than what step is needed for the block or blocks in the front.

I'm not talking about leveling for the propane refrigerator. I'm talking about precision leveling for "certain of us" to sleep!!! We find this situation most often when boondocking in rough sites. [emoticon]

* This post was edited 11/17/20 10:21am by pnichols *

Desert Captain

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Posted: 11/17/20 06:27am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Phil, I have yet to encounter such a challenge... just lucky I guess. As noted the most blocks I have ever had to use was 2 high usually under one side {under both rear wheels on that side} and once an a while one or two under one of the front wheels but blocks are cheap and I have more then I've ever needed.

I've got a couple under one side of my cargo trailer as one wheel sits in the gravel with the other up on my newly paved asphalt driveway. I have another under the tongue jack sitting on a 2 X 10. Never had Leggo's as a kid, too old I guess but I keep finding ways to use them now and I am almost 69.

[emoticon]

pnichols

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Posted: 11/17/20 03:11pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Here's us with our camping friends way out there in Utah (that's our Class C on the right) in a boondock camping spot where plenty of leveling blocks came in handy for both of us.
[image]

Here's what our camping friends had to do on their right front tire - the highest step of the step block was not enough!
[image]

Gjac

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Posted: 11/20/20 08:13am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

pnichols wrote:

Here's us with our camping friends way out there in Utah (that's our Class C on the right) in a boondock camping spot where plenty of leveling blocks came in handy for both of us.
[image]

Here's what our camping friends had to do on their right front tire - the highest step of the step block was not enough!
[image]
Phil your last photo makes me think spending the extra money for leveling jacks may be worth the money.

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