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C Schomer

Pueblo West, Co.

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Posted: 12/04/20 11:45am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I put a M X F ball valve in my drain. That kind of valve is close coupled and fits in the space, nicely. If you have ball valves, leave them halfway open after winterizing and they won’t break when freezing. Craig

John Wayne

Long Beach, Ca

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Posted: 12/04/20 03:02pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I read some where that the nylon Atwood plug was also a safety device. And to always use the plug. I hope you fitting doesn't react with the metal in the heater and seize up in the opening making it unable to ever come out.


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mobeewan

Hampton, Va

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Posted: 12/04/20 05:18pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

She said her son was a mechanical engineer so he should very well knowledgeable about dissimilar metals. As long as the valve has a plastic or brass body she is ok. Steel or stainless would be a huge problem since there would be way more galvanic reactivity. Aluminum and brass are way lower reactivity. Even a plastic valve that could take the heat would be fine.

I did similar with an Atwood WH. Replaced the plug with a brass nipple and brass ball valve. Never had any problem. I could unscrew them if I needed to flush the tank.

I screwed the nipple in and screwed the valve onto the nipple. I had to remove the valve handle for clearance so I could turn the valve to tighten everything. Kept the valve handle in the silverware drawer so I didn't loose it and could find it when needed. I even had about a foot of clear tubing with a plastic hose barb i could thread into the ball valve I kept inside the water heater access door to let the WH drain onto the ground instead of running down the inside of the door.

coolmom42

Middle Tennessee

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Posted: 12/04/20 11:59pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

C Schomer wrote:

I put a M X F ball valve in my drain. That kind of valve is close coupled and fits in the space, nicely. If you have ball valves, leave them halfway open after winterizing and they won’t break when freezing. Craig


That's what I did.


Single empty-nester in Middle TN, sometimes with a friend or grandchild on board

coolmom42

Middle Tennessee

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Posted: 12/05/20 12:00am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

John Wayne wrote:

I read some where that the nylon Atwood plug was also a safety device. And to always use the plug. I hope you fitting doesn't react with the metal in the heater and seize up in the opening making it unable to ever come out.


The fitting is plastic. The water heater has its own pressure relief.

coolmom42

Middle Tennessee

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Posted: 12/05/20 12:07am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

mobeewan wrote:

She said her son was a mechanical engineer so he should very well knowledgeable about dissimilar metals. As long as the valve has a plastic or brass body she is ok. Steel or stainless would be a huge problem since there would be way more galvanic reactivity. Aluminum and brass are way lower reactivity. Even a plastic valve that could take the heat would be fine.

I did similar with an Atwood WH. Replaced the plug with a brass nipple and brass ball valve. Never had any problem. I could unscrew them if I needed to flush the tank.

I screwed the nipple in and screwed the valve onto the nipple. I had to remove the valve handle for clearance so I could turn the valve to tighten everything. Kept the valve handle in the silverware drawer so I didn't loose it and could find it when needed. I even had about a foot of clear tubing with a plastic hose barb i could thread into the ball valve I kept inside the water heater access door to let the WH drain onto the ground instead of running down the inside of the door.



LOL I have a M.S. in Chemistry and would never put 2 dissimilar metals together without lots of teflon tape.

We flushed the tank thoroughly before putting this fitting in so it's good for a while.

I don't mind taking this out for an annual flush but this makes for a really fast way to drain, which I expect to do 3-4 times a year given my location and travel plans.

BarneyS

S.E. Lower Michigan

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Posted: 12/05/20 08:39am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Why would you need to drain the water heater three or four times a year? We traveled for years and only drained ours once per year and flushed out all the sediment at that time with a wand through the drain hole. We never drained it in between stops or campgrounds.

Our present trailer is 16 years old and has the original 10 gal Atwood gas/elec water heater which still works great. I see no need to drain several time a year unless you camp in areas that have horrible water in which case I would probably not be stopping there.[emoticon]
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coolmom42

Middle Tennessee

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Posted: 12/05/20 12:55pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BarneyS wrote:

Why would you need to drain the water heater three or four times a year? We traveled for years and only drained ours once per year and flushed out all the sediment at that time with a wand through the drain hole. We never drained it in between stops or campgrounds.

Our present trailer is 16 years old and has the original 10 gal Atwood gas/elec water heater which still works great. I see no need to drain several time a year unless you camp in areas that have horrible water in which case I would probably not be stopping there.[emoticon]
Barney


I live in Tennessee. I plan to do a lot of spring and fall trips, and a couple of trips to the south during winter, and then back home. (I hate travelling in hot weather, unless it's to somewhere much cooler.) Lots of temperature swings happening. Dependably keeping RV temps in a freeze-free zone would require lots of propane or electric heat.

spoon059

Just north of D.C.

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Posted: 12/05/20 06:12pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Lots of engineering and contraptions being used...

All I do is open my low point drains and then open my pressure relief valve to break the vacuum. The water drains right out of the bottom of my trailer, right where Jayco designed it to empty.

Easy peasy, but most importantly... FREE. But hey, engineers like to justify themselves with gadgets. Good for them, I've ever even ridden on a train.


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philh

Belleville MI

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Posted: 12/05/20 07:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

spoon059 wrote:

Lots of engineering and contraptions being used...

All I do is open my low point drains and then open my pressure relief valve to break the vacuum. The water drains right out of the bottom of my trailer, right where Jayco designed it to empty.

Easy peasy, but most importantly... FREE. But hey, engineers like to justify themselves with gadgets. Good for them, I've ever even ridden on a train.

That won't completely empty the WH. You can also flush out the WH when you pull the plug

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