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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > Flojet macerator: is it reliable? Maintenance issues?

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wa8yxm

Wherever I happen to park

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Posted: 12/26/20 04:53pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The "Guts" consist of two stages.

The first stage is a set of "Blades' like a blender that break up stuff a bit and that is where hair and other stuff needs to be removed. You look down the "Throat" of the thing and you see them. And a backing plate.

The Real "Guts" is the pump and that's below the plate. but other than Stiction (Which I think I mentioned above) that usualy is no tribble at all.

And the Stiction is "Cured" by giving the other end of the motor shaft a twist using a flat bladed tool or even a quarter or washers work well. before you hook up.


Home is where I park it.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times


learntorv

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Posted: 12/28/20 11:23am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

profdant139 wrote:

Well, I have unboxed it and am examining the contents of the package. And to answer my own questions, yes, there are procedures in the manual for repairs and maintenance to be conducted by the end user. But they are not simple tasks -- this is not something I will do until I have to.

As far as I can see, there is no required annual maintenance.

The instructions do not expressly say "this can be powered directly by an ordinary deep cycle battery." But since it requires a 12 volt power source, and it is designed for RVs, I think the answer is yes, direct-to-battery is OK.

They also say that if the cable run to the battery is more than 10 feet, use 10 gauge wire, rather than the 12 gauge wire that they provide.

Finally, they say that if you use alligator clips (presumably to the battery??), they have to be rated at 20 amps. So don't use a spare pair of flimsy clamps (which is what I was planning to do until I read the little manual carefully). [emoticon]


I will admit, I don't think I ever opened the instruction manual. I had a buddy help me slap some alligator clips onto a cord and a quick connect on the other side and went to town. I've since made a replacement cord when I got to my in-laws but didn't have my cord with me - I sacrificed a cheap extension cord.

Yes, you can clip it directly to a battery. I've used my camper batteries, my truck battery, and even my in-law's SUV battery (because it was closest in the driveway).

Like OB, I've never had to twist the end of the pump though I've heard of others who say they need to.

Yes, it's easy and pretty painless to open the pump up. We're a family of Wookiees so hair gets wrapped around the impeller.

The only tip I didn't see mentioned is I have a gate valve that I twist onto my sewer outlet first. This lets me isolate the pump from the tanks that I'm emptying. I then have a shut-off on the hose closest to the pump so that if there's a problem, I can isolate the hose from the pump and then would "walk" the hose to empty it into whatever my receptacle is.

I also use quick connects everywhere on my hoses. It reduces the diameter but lets me connect/disconnect easier (and cleaner?).

I've pumped from the camper sewer outlet to a bladder in my truck bed. I've probably pumped a couple thousand gallons of wastewater over the past 4 years. I've often pumped out friends and have become the honey wagon at rallies. The farthest I've pumped is probably 150' of hose to take care of 2 rigs without moving my truck.

Now, for reliability- there are a handful of pumps that go into "overheat protection" prematurely. It shuts down the pump for a couple of minutes. I have had 3 friends who have had it happen to and have read of reports online of the same thing. Flojet will replace the pump under warranty if it happens. Crazily, 1 of my friends had to have his pump replaced twice because of it.

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