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 > Rear Slide Control Board died

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spinners1

Washington

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Posted: 12/21/20 01:15pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have a 2005 Itasca motorhome model SUNOVA 35N with rear slide out.
I need a rear slide control board. This model is exactly the same as the 2005 Winnebago Sightseer 35. I replaced the board about 14 years ago and the Kwikee part number was 140464-02-700. I have queried Winnebago and LCI (they bought Kwikee) and they don't carry the part anymore. I have tried Caleb Colaw RV salvage, and Arizona RV Salvage with no luck. Any suggestions?

Of course I still have the option to manually crank it in, but we are not going any where soon (we are full timers) and I have plenty of time to get this fixed. If anyone knows of a source that I can get a used board I would appreciate it.


Ike
The Cottage
2004 Itasca Sunova 35N


garyemunson

Reno, Nevada

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Posted: 12/21/20 03:56pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

https://www.mmrvelectronics.com/about_us

ghsebldr

SW Washington

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Posted: 12/21/20 04:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi Spinners. I just went through the same thing looking for a slide controller for my 2004 Minnie. My mobile repair guy said I'd be lucky to find one, I didn't.
He said he could build me a double on off switch to make it work. He did bypass the controller just to make sure the slide motors were good and they were.
When he comes back I'll take some pics of what he comes up with. I think he will use the old controller and just jump around it somehow.
PM me if you'd like some pics of his work/switch. He made it sound pretty simple.

spinners1

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Posted: 12/21/20 05:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks garyemunson. I'll try the link.

Thank you ghsebldr. That would be great. I have an electronics background and was looking at their schematics. They are very hard to trace out. I've never seen wiring diagrams like these. I was thinking about jumping the circuit but without knowing what wires to make contact with I could end up burning out the motors. you can send the pics to spinners110722@yahoo.com

Rick Jay

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Posted: 12/21/20 06:05pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

spinners1 & ghsebldr,

The motors used are DC motors. I know there are various types of slides, so I'm not sure if what I know about mine might help or not.

Quite simply, my slide controller makes use of relays to change the polarity of + and - for extending/retracting the slide. One polarity extends the slide, the other retracts it. The rest of the wires are generally safety/control inputs. Such as: "engine must be running" or "engine must not be running", "parking brake must be set", "bay doors under slide must be closed", etc.

Also, if your slide motor has an electric brake as mine did, then when the slide motor is under power to extend/retract, 12V must be supplied to the brake unit to take off the brake.

Anyway, wiring up switches to extend/retract the slide wouldn't be that difficult, but you would be by-passing whatever safety inputs the manufacturer had implemented.

They really are NOT that complicated.

I had to install new relays onto my slide controller after about 3 or 4 years of ownership. If your unit isn't a potted assembly, you might wish to see if you can replace the relays on the board to see if that helps. When mine started acting up, I could usually get them to work by rapping the controller to setup a vibration. Often this allows the relay to kick in. In my opinion, the relays they used (at least on mine) are undersized in terms of their contact current rating, and I think the contacts pit fairly quickly.

Oh, the other thing is just to make sure that ALL grounds AND power connections at the controller(s) AND at the motors are clean and proper. Every volt counts at the motors to get things moving and dirty, corroded, burned or loose connections can keep things from working properly.

One of these days, I'm going to make either an Arduino equivalent controller or perhaps use one of the inexpensive PLCs that are available now. I think that project is about #397 on my "To Do" list. And that's not counting the list my wife has for me! LOL

Good Luck,

~Rick

ON EDIT: Just a thought....Spinners1, are the controllers the same for your front and rear slides? If so, temporarily, you could just use the good controller for both slides until you get the thing fixed properly. It would also confirm that the problem with the rear slide is with the controller and NOT wiring or motor related.


2005 Georgie Boy Cruise Master 3625 DS on a Workhorse W-22
Rick, Gail, 1 girl (24-Angel since 2008), 1 girl (19), 2 boys (20 & 17).
2001 Honda Odyssey, Demco Aluminator tow bar & tow plate, SMI Silent Partner brake controller.


spinners1

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Posted: 12/21/20 06:12pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Quote:

are the controllers the same for your front and rear slides?

Thought about That, but no they are different.

spinners1

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Posted: 12/22/20 07:58pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The front slide is a duel motor, duel mechanism, slide. The controller is one that synchronizes the motors so that the slide goes in/out smoothly without jamming. The rear slide (my problem) is a single motor, single mechanism slide. So different controllers. No need for the synchronizer for the rear slide. But in theory that should make it easier to jump the board. I actually did it 14 years ago but frankly I'm getting old and can't remember how. But given time I'll figure it out.

olfarmer

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Posted: 12/22/20 09:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Try winebagoparts.com a division of Mobility RV at Hanlontown Iowa. Phone #800 933 7742. They are not part of Winnebago but they handle a lot of Winnebago obsolete parts. I have gotten parts for my 2001 Brave from them. They don't have everything but they may be worth a try.
Good Luck!


Ed & Ruby & the 2 cats
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spinners1

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Posted: 12/22/20 10:58pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thank you. That's a great tip. I sent them an e-mail.

* This post was edited 12/22/20 11:11pm by spinners1 *

wa8yxm

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Posted: 12/23/20 04:30am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I do not recommend this because it disables some safety features but.....

I use two single pole double throw automotive 40 amp relays from Auto-zone/Discount-auto/NAPA/Et-al (take your pick of vendors)

Depending on the type of slide out

The armature (moving contacts) go to the motor. one to each relay
Positive (Battetry) to the Normally Open
Negative (Chassis ground) to the normally closed.

Resting both motor leads are grounded so no operation.

The coil leads. one switch lead goes to one coil lead on each relay
The other coil lead goes to GROUND on Power gear and Positive (Battery) on Accu-Slide

You may need to "flip" the switch leads or the motor leads if it runs backward.


Home is where I park it.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times


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