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 > Norcold 1200 won't turn on ??

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dougrainer

Carrolton, Texas

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Posted: 12/25/20 10:37am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

erniee wrote:

Bring that coach to us for a residential refrigerator and junk that fire hazard


Stick to what you are good at---Flooring. Leave the actual repair and diagnosis to the experts, like me. There is NO INHERENT fire danger on Norcold 1200 series refers. There are millions of them out there and if a fire hazard you would see burned down RV's on the news every day. Doug

tropical36

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Posted: 12/25/20 10:41am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

supercub wrote:

Finally got the switch to reset. Found out one needs to leave the magnet over the area for 5 or so seconds before moving it. Just sliding the magnet back and forth wouldn't do it. Thanks for all the info. Much appreciated.

Now consider an ARP replacement for this Norcold band aide, while contemplating a RC Refrigeration conversion to a residential type compressor for a permanent fix.
Both were the best thing we ever did.


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dougrainer

Carrolton, Texas

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Posted: 12/25/20 03:54pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

tropical36 wrote:

supercub wrote:

Finally got the switch to reset. Found out one needs to leave the magnet over the area for 5 or so seconds before moving it. Just sliding the magnet back and forth wouldn't do it. Thanks for all the info. Much appreciated.

Now consider an ARP replacement for this Norcold band aide, while contemplating a RC Refrigeration conversion to a residential type compressor for a permanent fix.
Both were the best thing we ever did.


State what the ARP does for safety that the Norcold recall does not. What the ARP does also, is, protects the Cooling Unit from off level operation and shuts the refer down when running off level. This prevents ruining the CU from off level operation. Once level the ARP restarts the Refer. The Safety part is almost identical to the Norcold device. I would have a ARP on any brand RV Ammonia refer. Doug

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Posted: 12/25/20 07:01pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

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tropical36

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Posted: 12/25/20 08:08pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

dougrainer wrote:

tropical36 wrote:

supercub wrote:

Finally got the switch to reset. Found out one needs to leave the magnet over the area for 5 or so seconds before moving it. Just sliding the magnet back and forth wouldn't do it. Thanks for all the info. Much appreciated.

Now consider an ARP replacement for this Norcold band aide, while contemplating a RC Refrigeration conversion to a residential type compressor for a permanent fix.
Both were the best thing we ever did.


State what the ARP does for safety that the Norcold recall does not. What the ARP does also, is, protects the Cooling Unit from off level operation and shuts the refer down when running off level. This prevents ruining the CU from off level operation. Once level the ARP restarts the Refer. The Safety part is almost identical to the Norcold device. I would have a ARP on any brand RV Ammonia refer. Doug

Does it not cutoff at a much lower temp. than the NC fix?
Seems that trying to reset the NC device brings in the most complaints though.

supercub

Modesto CA

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Posted: 12/26/20 10:02am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for the info. I have the ARP, I also installed a fire extinguisher and the unit is in very good condition. I frequently check it for any leaks, and it has worked great for years. So I really see no need to replace it. This is only the second time the safety switch has tripped and both times have been to washing. Thanks again for the help.

tropical36

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Posted: 12/26/20 11:45am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

supercub wrote:

Thanks for the info. I have the ARP, I also installed a fire extinguisher and the unit is in very good condition. I frequently check it for any leaks, and it has worked great for years. So I really see no need to replace it. This is only the second time the safety switch has tripped and both times have been to washing. Thanks again for the help.

Sounds like you have the ARP connected in series with the NC device.
I didn't do that and see no need even though it says to. ARP has to say that for liability reasons. I mean if it's OK for NC's at a cutoff of 600F or so, why isn't it OK for the lone ARP to trip at around 350F?
Biggest thing with the compressor versions is for quick and deep cold, along with quick recovery's with the door openings and closings.
I get it though and didn't convert mine, until it gave up the ship.

dougrainer

Carrolton, Texas

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Posted: 12/26/20 12:31pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

tropical36 wrote:

supercub wrote:

Thanks for the info. I have the ARP, I also installed a fire extinguisher and the unit is in very good condition. I frequently check it for any leaks, and it has worked great for years. So I really see no need to replace it. This is only the second time the safety switch has tripped and both times have been to washing. Thanks again for the help.

Sounds like you have the ARP connected in series with the NC device.
I didn't do that and see no need even though it says to. ARP has to say that for liability reasons. I mean if it's OK for NC's at a cutoff of 600F or so, why isn't it OK for the lone ARP to trip at around 350F?
Biggest thing with the compressor versions is for quick and deep cold, along with quick recovery's with the door openings and closings.
I get it though and didn't convert mine, until it gave up the ship.


I also would remove the Norcold box and just use the ARP system. The 350 degree trip is the CU DAMAGE temp. The 700 Norcold is for when you have NO ventilation or the CU is blocked or leaks. The MAIN cause of RV Ammonia failures is off level operation. The ARP device trips at 350 because when off level, the flue temp rises. This stops the Operation to protect the CU. Most RV'ers do not understand that when operating off level even for 1 hour, THAT, cause a very small breakdown of the CU and all those times when they run off level it accumilates until a few years down the line the Refer fails to do the job. They then think, POS refer. But, THEY caused the failure. They run off level and then they notice that nothing seemed to happen. They dismiss the importance of level because they think nothing happened. Doug

erniee

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Posted: 12/27/20 06:25am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Boy, you have your head in the sand. There have been tons of burned down coaches . Why the Norwood settlement lawsuit? Just for that reason.
If they are so safe why have there been recalls on the recalls?
Hope you have a fire suppression system on your “safe” norcold

* This post was edited 12/27/20 07:23am by erniee *


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dougrainer

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Posted: 12/27/20 09:54am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

erniee wrote:

Boy, you have your head in the sand. There have been tons of burned down coaches . Why the Norwood settlement lawsuit? Just for that reason.
If they are so safe why have there been recalls on the recalls?
Hope you have a fire suppression system on your “safe” norcold

\
My head in the sand?????? I have over 50 years experiance in the RV industry. I have 41 years as a RV Technician and a MASTER RV TECHNICIAN for over 25 years and was one of the FIRST to get a Master when the RVIA came out with the designation. I have worked on well over 500 hundred 1200 series Norcolds and have NEVER seen a severe fire that resulted from a leaker 1200 CU. Remember, other factors can cause a fire in a 1200 refer. I don't own a RV, never have. But, I have worked continously in the RV industry for that 50 years and the publications and reports over those years show no problems inherent in the Absorbsion Refers or the 1200 specifically. YOU are ignorant of the reason lawsuits are settled. Lawsuits like this one just generated money for the Lawyers. Norcold settled, because it would have cost more to fight the charges. Ignorant Fire inspectors or People that had a fire WANTED someone to blame Norcold. Yes, as in all products, there have been fires from a leaking AMMONIA Cooling unit. ALL models and brands of Ammonia CU's can catch fire if the leak is bad enough and the LP FLAME is ON. NO fires if on 120 volt and it leaks. BUT, a catastrophic leak can happen and if NOT on LP no possible fire. If the leak happens when the refer is not ON, then the Ammonia leaks out, dissipates into the air, and the next time the refer is turned ON, NOTHING HAPPENS, except NO COOL and you see the tell-tale yellow powder. I have seen numerous fires on refer units over my 41 years and usually caused by leaking LP connections at the refer or insect/animal nests in the burner area of the refer that catch fire. I have worked on thousands of refers and RV's in 41 years and I would have no problem having my friends and loved ones and even myself operate a 1200 Norcold. Which I HAVE used on the few occasions I have vacationed with a used unit that had a 1200 in it. Like I stated, stick to "flooring" and leave the rest to true experts. Doug

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