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Open Roads Forum  >  General RVing Issues

 > Looking for portable electric space heater for rv!

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cummins2014

Utah

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Posted: 12/31/20 08:51pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

rhagfo wrote:

pianotuna wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:

pianotuna wrote:

I have two problems with cheap heat.

#1 no fail over to propane heat if power goes off. I know that is not much of an issue for most--but if you live where it is truly cold (-30), it may be a serious issue.

The #2 is that even the smaller cheap heat can't be run on a 15 amp circuit. The wattage is too large. That means no mooch docking in winter time.

I do have other issues, but they are personal to me.


It’s simply a flip of a switch. Running out of propane is a whole other animal but simply flip a switch resolves the others issue.

IMHO Boondocking is not a time for cheap heat.


And if no one is "home" to flip the switch and it is -30?


Well if I was -30 I might worry about furnace not heating. It would be easy pesey to hook a 120 to 12 volt transformer and a relay in the switch wiring harness.


I got the best solution, stay the heck out of -30 weather . There was a reason why our family moved from northern Montana [emoticon]

deltabravo

Spokane, WA

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Posted: 01/01/21 07:10am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

pianotuna wrote:

Make sure to check the outlet you plan on using. If it has stab connectors, replace the outlet.


I can't stand those "RV" style electrical outlets. High chance of a fire if the RV assembly guy didn't seat the wires correctly.

I went a step further and added a new outlet on a dedicated circuit which I show in detail in this video

I did it again in my truck camper last month.

The primary purpose of these new outlets is a dedicated circuit for a space heater


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pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 01/01/21 02:47pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

deltabravo,

I added 15 amp and 20 amp auxiliary shore power cords. That's the only reason I can heat 100% electrically. If there are enough outlets on separate circuits I have a minimum of 45 amps (15 x 3). That keeps me comfy to -30 C. Below that, I need one outlet to be 30 amps with the autoformer in use.


Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, soon to have SiO2 batteries, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

mr. ed

Amarillo, Texas

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Posted: 01/01/21 04:00pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

agesilaus wrote:

pianotuna wrote:

Almost any small heater will meet your needs. Make sure to check the outlet you plan on using. If it has stab connectors, replace the outlet.


Ditto we were up in NC during a November cold snap down to 25 and just went out and bought a $20 Walmart 1500W heater. So far as I can tell they are all functionally the same. Get one with a blower. It heated the Arctic Fox so hot that we had to turn it on low and run the thermostat up to keep it off.


I have the same Walmart heater and it works very well. Also has tip-over protection, which shuts it off if accidentally knocked over. Can also run fan only without heat.


Mr. Ed (fulltiming since 1987)
Life is fragile. Handle with prayer.

2007 Hitchhiker II LS Model 29.5 LKTG (sold)
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AJR

Close to Madison Wisconsin

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Posted: 01/01/21 04:05pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Going back to the OP question. One or two 1500W heater running at 750W will keep most class C RVs warm at say 25 degrees for a night.


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pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 01/01/21 04:11pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

1500 watts is going to yield about 5118 btu's. It is about what a heat strip may provide.

I did a test a lot of years ago now on heat loss from an RV.

mr. ed

Amarillo, Texas

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Posted: 01/01/21 04:13pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

cummins2014 wrote:

rhagfo wrote:

pianotuna wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:

pianotuna wrote:

I have two problems with cheap heat.

#1 no fail over to propane heat if power goes off. I know that is not much of an issue for most--but if you live where it is truly cold (-30), it may be a serious issue.

The #2 is that even the smaller cheap heat can't be run on a 15 amp circuit. The wattage is too large. That means no mooch docking in winter time.

I do have other issues, but they are personal to me.


It’s simply a flip of a switch. Running out of propane is a whole other animal but simply flip a switch resolves the others issue.

IMHO Boondocking is not a time for cheap heat.


And if no one is "home" to flip the switch and it is -30?


Well if I was -30 I might worry about furnace not heating. It would be easy pesey to hook a 120 to 12 volt transformer and a relay in the switch wiring harness.


I got the best solution, stay the heck out of -30 weather . There was a reason why our family moved from northern Montana [emoticon]


X2. I've always wintered in the Southwest (like AZ) and moved to higher elevations or other parts of the country in summer. I like warmer weather, if I can get it. One reason to own an RV is ability to move where you're comfortable. I understand that some folks like to camp where it's freezing cold. Good for them! [emoticon]

Fisherman

Angus, Ontario, Canada

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Posted: 01/01/21 04:20pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

deltabravo wrote:

pianotuna wrote:

Make sure to check the outlet you plan on using. If it has stab connectors, replace the outlet.


I can't stand those "RV" style electrical outlets. High chance of a fire if the RV assembly guy didn't seat the wires correctly.

I went a step further and added a new outlet on a dedicated circuit which I show in detail in this video

I did it again in my truck camper last month.

The primary purpose of these new outlets is a dedicated circuit for a space heater


Nice work. I'm surprised that UL and CSA actually approve those receptacles for 15A, just looking to light on fire.

Elk_traveler

maryland

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Posted: 01/02/21 06:00am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I found one after many yrs. looking for the ideal mini heater for just the waking hours and/or watching TV. We camp mostly in state park and during the winter operate a 1500 watt electric heater evenings. Have tried to run two 1500 watt heaters but breaker is constantly tripping because of current overload. Well the solution just appeared from Mr. Heater a portable propane heater that utilizes the small 16 oz Coleman propane bottles. the heater is designed and certified to operate inside. It's perfect it will run for nearly 6 hours on low and approx. 3 1/2 hrs on high. I operate it on low setting and along with the 1500 watt electric heater the camper is very warm even with temp in the 20 degree range. I do not run the camper propane furance because the it use requires refilling to often. This little heater from Mr. Heater is ideal for use during the evenings. I would not leave it running while sleeping but otherwise it is a perfect choice. Simply replace the little propane bottle and keep going. I think the Mr. Heater just recently hit the market. I purchased at Lowes but have seen it at Cabela/Bass Pro as well.

Lynnmor

Red Lion

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Posted: 01/02/21 08:06am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Elk_traveler wrote:

heaters but breaker is constantly tripping because of current overload. Well the solution just appeared from Mr. Heater a portable propane heater that utilizes the small 16 oz Coleman propane bottles. the heater is designed and certified to operate inside.


Burning fuel inside will result in added moisture and condensation, so watch for that.





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