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 > Lifting my class C

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DrewE

Vermont

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Posted: 01/01/21 03:23pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Definitely ask the local spring place. It's entirely possible the springs need replacement, but it's also entirely possible they're okay. The rear springs on the E-SuperDuty chassis (and I assume some other years of at least the E450 chassis, and maybe other E series chassis) have nearly flat springs by design. I don't see anything obviously wrong in your picture, but I'm also no spring expert, not by a very long shot.

Getting some air in the helper springs will be a good start (and free), and probably coincidentally make the ride a bit better as well. They don't take a lot of air; a bicycle pump is very practical for putting air in if you don't have or don't want to mess with a compressor.





pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 01/01/21 04:02pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi,

Consider Air Tabs. They gave me better truck isolation--and reduced wind noise a LOT.


Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp hours of AGM in two battery banks 12 volt batteries, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

Nomadist

San Francisco Bay Area

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Posted: 01/01/21 06:33pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

@Grit dog and @DrewE

agreed...moving forward with getting the airbags operational. I followed the tubes and they terminated here:

[image]

I took a look at 12VDC compressors just now and there a lot to choose from, so that's a research project on my plate. Air Lift has a good page that describes how to select one.
airliftcompany . com/workshop/choose-on-board-air-compressor-system

One thing I'm seeing is that perhaps a dual-path system will allow me to level the rig left-to-right when it's uneven. Hmmm.

And I agree with this: "Personally, not worth putting a pile of money into the back of an old RV for a couple inches ground clearance."

I'm happy to be finding lower-priced solutions as I proceed (it doesn't hurt that my solutions also happened to be already installed). In particular, it seems I should flip the order of my last list above and get the air bags going right away:

1. Get air bags working
2. Consult with suspension shop
3. Replace the leaf springs
4. Replace shocks
5. Install rear stabilizer bar

@pianotuna thanks for the suggestion; never heard of that product and I can see the value. Will keep that in mind.

* This post was edited 01/01/21 06:40pm by Nomadist *

memtb

Wyoming

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Posted: 01/01/21 08:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

nomadist, if I may suggest. Instead of dolly wheels, go with a frame to frame roller. It won’t miss the high spots on irregular grade surfaces. A dolly wheel may be at a low point on the grade, or fall into a hole.....doing you no good! Our 5th wheel has a full side to side roller, our class c roller is only about 3 ft wide, but still offers an advantage over dolly wheels. You have a lot of rear overhang.....get the most that you can get to provide as much protection as possible! Maybe even several types of protection.....lift, roller, air bags, ect! memtb


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opnspaces

San Diego Ca

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Posted: 01/02/21 09:25am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Looking at your last picture I think the first and easiest way to gain clearance is to remove the spacers between the rollers and the frame. It sure looks like the bolt holes are lined up the same. As long as the rollers still keep the hitch of the ground you might gain just enough clearance that you need. And it's completely free to boot.

But, check carefully that raising the rollers does not allow something else like the drain pipe to start dragging.


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pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 01/02/21 10:58am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

membt,

Do you mean 3 feet--or three inches?

DrewE

Vermont

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Posted: 01/02/21 11:54am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

So where the hoses are terminating is just a valve cap on a standard Schrader tire valve. Unscrew the cap and put some air in with whatever you have handy to inflate tires; I would not be at all surprised if they're working just fine as designed.

If they're Firestone Ride-Rite units (and I'd guess they are), the pressure limits are 5 psi to 95 psi if memory serves--they say to always have at least a tiny bit of air in them to avoid damage, though I've never heard of any being damaged from lack of air. I wouldn't be surprised if the system is working fine as designed. I find around 40-45 psi works nicely for me on my motorhome, which of course is an entirely different unit and model than yours.

Having a built-in compressor tied into the system and valving to be able to adjust on the fly for sure is a nice feature, but not essential to be able to use the air helper springs.

pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 01/02/21 04:18pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The "flanges" that held the air bags broke their welds. When I was upgrading the springs the shop could not source anything that fit correctly which is why I went to timbrins.

Nomadist

San Francisco Bay Area

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Posted: 01/02/21 04:18pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

@memtb thanks for the suggestion...I think I've seen those wide ones but after 10 minutes of searching online the only picture I've found was this:

pinterest . ca/pin/314900198915333079

Checked some retailers, tried "rv wide roller", "camper roller" and a few other search terms. In any case, I'm pretty sure I know what you are referring to. They are *much* wider than simple wheels, which, as you point out, can end up in a hole. Two wide rollers on either side would seem to be better. Have to think that one over...my initial thinking is that I'll start with these because I have them and keep the roller idea in my back pocket if it looks like I could use them.

Edit: found this thread. Some folks there are adamant that rollers and wheels should not be used and instead recommend skid plates. A dealer chimed in saying he replaces "dozens" of rear-quarter panels yearly because of rollers:

airforums. com/forums/f477/bumper-rollers-26660.html

Has me think that my intuition of preventing the rear from touching at all was on target (to the best of my abilities). It also has me think of going even more slowly over angle changes than I already have been. In my case, the wheels are attached to the frame so I think I have less risk than the airstream trailers might have. Still.

@opnspaces when underneath yesterday, I was looking at the rollers and thinking the same thing: the bottom of the roller might *just* protect the hitch receiver with the spacer removed. I'll measure it next time.

I took this picture hoping to show the angle...it's close:

[image]

In the least, I can replace the spacer with a smaller one. Two extra inches!

At least I now know after my under-carriage investigations that the scraping sound I was hearing was actually the wheels. Phew.

@pianotuna it's very possible he means 3 feet...the roller I saw went clear across the rear bumper. Wish I could find a picture to post.

@DrewE good point. I can test before investing in the compressor.

* This post was last edited 01/02/21 05:31pm by Nomadist *   View edit history

gotsmart

a bit too late though

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Posted: 01/02/21 05:31pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Here is the receiver on my 2004 Majestic 28R. I'd be interested in seeing how the Op's receiver is installed. Mine might be higher. Can the Op's receiver be reinstalled 3 inches higher? In the 3rd pic it shows the drop adapter for the tow bar. Even with that I enter curb cuts at a 45 degree angle and do not have a clearance issue.

[image]
[image]

Here is a side view:
[image]

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