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Open Roads Forum  >  Truck Campers

 > Replacing ceiling in Lance shower?

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Seminoe Joe

Texas, Wyoming, or somewhere in between

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Posted: 12/31/20 10:26am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The luan around the skylight and vent is in pretty sorry shape after a leak that soaked it through a couple of times. I’m thinking of replacing the ceiling luan with plastic or fiberglass sheeting and wonder if there are any pros or cons? Has anyone done this and is willing to offer any thoughts?


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Lwiddis

Williams AZ area

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Posted: 12/31/20 11:07am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I wouldn't replace the luan until I was sure everything was ok.


Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2020 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, 300 watt solar-parallel & MPPT, Trojan T-125s. TALL flag pole. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist14 yr. Army vet-11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad


d3500ram

Colorado

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Posted: 12/31/20 11:35am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have not done that actual repair of replacing the ceiling, but did replace the skylight on my last camper. Not thinking such a repair would be too difficult...
-remove trim from skylight and vent,
-cut to fit the new ceiling,
-install with a good construction adhesive.

All this assuming the leak is fixed and there is sufficient substrate to which to install new finish.

If it were me, I would use FRP and re-seal the entire shower with caulk.


Sold the TC, previous owner of 2 NorthStar pop-ups & 2 Northstar Arrows...still have the truck:

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Seminoe Joe

Texas, Wyoming, or somewhere in between

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Posted: 12/31/20 01:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks. I’ll look into that FRP. I finally got the leak under control. Took lots of experimenting and I learned the following that may be of use for others:
1) caulking needs to be checked and replaced FREQUENTLY in hostile climates like southeast Texas.
2) spray on “Flex Seal” is ok for emergency repairs, but after just a couple of months becomes brittle, cracks, and peels off. It’s useless for long term!
3) using butyl tape AND lap sealant AND eternabond is the way to go!
For the ceiling I’m currently eyeballing this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Glasliner-4-ft-x-8-ft-White-090-FRP-Wall-Board-MFTF12IXA480009600/100389836?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&mtc=Shopping-B-F_D30-G-D30-30_27_PANELING-Generic-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA-&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D30-G-D30-30_27_PANELING-Generic-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA--71700000052659303-58700005045840622-92700044042640858&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2rDBwoT57QIVUPDACh1k9wkxEAQYBCABEgLsRvD_BwE
Seems like it might be better for a shower where humidity and moisture are a constant potentl threat to simple luan.

BurbMan

Noblesville, IN

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Posted: 12/31/20 02:00pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hey Joe,

On your comments:

1) Absolutely, too many folks underestimate the importance of this;
2) I have had the spray-on Flex Seal hold up quite well for several years on underbody areas...it's the UV that kills it on exposed applications like roofs. It will perform well as long as it's not UV exposed.
3) Amen brother!!!


2015 Ram 3500 SRW 4x4 Laramie Crew Cab Long Box, Cummins diesel
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d3500ram

Colorado

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Posted: 12/31/20 02:46pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Seminoe Joe wrote:

....
1) caulking needs to be checked and replaced FREQUENTLY in hostile climates like southeast Texas. ...

So true. Inspection and maintenance is key to keeping a camper in good condition.



Seminoe Joe wrote:

...
2) spray on “Flex Seal” is ok for emergency repairs, but after just a couple of months becomes brittle, cracks, and peels off. It’s useless for long term!...

I cannot disagree.



Seminoe Joe wrote:

...
3) using butyl tape AND lap sealant AND eternabond is the way to go!...

Yep. As well as removing old and installing new properly the first time. Had to redo a fix when I did not install Eterna Bond the first time. Toup to remove where it adhered. But finally did the job correctly with a new bubble skylight:

[image]
Before:

[image]

After:

[image]

[image]



Seminoe Joe wrote:

...
For the ceiling I’m currently eyeballing this: CLICKY
Seems like it might be better for a shower where humidity and moisture are a constant potentl threat to simple luan.

I would not use luan.
If you use FRP, consider cutting it on a table saw with correct blade to minimize a rough edge... you'll want a smooth as possible edge to install a clean caulk bead.

Seminoe Joe

Texas, Wyoming, or somewhere in between

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Posted: 12/31/20 04:16pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

D3500ram,
It looks ok the last 2 photos like the tape is under the skylight with caulking along the edge? Is that correct?

Fisherman

Angus, Ontario, Canada

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Posted: 12/31/20 04:24pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Seminoe Joe wrote:

Thanks. I’ll look into that FRP. I finally got the leak under control. Took lots of experimenting and I learned the following that may be of use for others:
1) caulking needs to be checked and replaced FREQUENTLY in hostile climates like southeast Texas.
2) spray on “Flex Seal” is ok for emergency repairs, but after just a couple of months becomes brittle, cracks, and peels off. It’s useless for long term!
3) using butyl tape AND lap sealant AND eternabond is the way to go!
For the ceiling I’m currently eyeballing this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Glasliner-4-ft-x-8-ft-White-090-FRP-Wall-Board-MFTF12IXA480009600/100389836?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&mtc=Shopping-B-F_D30-G-D30-30_27_PANELING-Generic-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA-&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D30-G-D30-30_27_PANELING-Generic-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA--71700000052659303-58700005045840622-92700044042640858&gclsrc=aw.ds&&

gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2rDBwoT57QIVUPDACh1k9wkxEAQYBCABEgLsRvD_BwE
Seems like it might be better for a shower where humidity and moisture are a constant potentl threat to simple luan.


That fibreglass sheet will work quite well. I used it for an exterior window cover on the front of my old T/T a few years ago, held up for at 4 years before I sold the trailer. Just use a dust mask and gloves when cutting. I used masking tape on both sides of the sheet where the cut lines were to minimise any splintering and had a fine cut jig saw blade.

d3500ram

Colorado

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Posted: 12/31/20 05:41pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Seminoe Joe wrote:

D3500ram,
It looks ok the last 2 photos like the tape is under the skylight with caulking along the edge? Is that correct?

Yes,
The first two images is the original skylight bubble where I tried to EternaBond(EB) over the flange edge. The EB did not take to it too well over it but stuck to the roof just fine. I prepped and cleaned everything (and I mean EVERYTHING!!!) but don't know why it didn't adhere to the dome.

In order to do it right, I ended up replacing the bubble. To do this I removed the old dome to discover a slight leak had gotten in and started to deteriorate the roof frame. Ended up stripping part of the roof membrane back towards the front at the vent... I think the water came in via the vent. Then manually stripped the EB that remained on the roof (no easy task) and started fresh.

In my opinion, one should NOT install EB over the bubble flanges in case it needs to be replaced at a later date. I lapped in the proper direction strips of EB to cover up where I peeled back the roof membrane then installed the new skylight with butyl tape. When it was all snugged up I then used self-leveling sealant (forget whether it was GeoCel or Dicor) over the dome at the edges and over each fastener.

Part of this repair also included inspecting, prepping and resealing the vents, antenna mount as well as the rear trim atop the roof.

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