RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Adding a new 120 vac circuit and outlet

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Do It Yourself Modifications a...

Open Roads Forum  >  Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)

 > Adding a new 120 vac circuit and outlet

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 2  
Prev
Sponsored By:
FunTwoDrv

NC

Senior Member

Joined: 11/16/2010

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 01/27/21 09:10am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

"But my thought would be to use One of These they come in different lengths and I could put it where I wanted it."

The 6' version is what I'll be installing on ours.

Gary

Blacklane

New Carlisle, Ohio USA

Full Member

Joined: 07/01/2014

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 01/29/21 08:57pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I appreciated the OP's video until he got to the part where he decided to scrap the RV outlet and use a standard outlet, then proceeded to connect wires to the terminal screws. Using screw connections in a vibration-prone environment is risky, since the screws can loosen. A better choice would be to use the spring-loaded speed connectors in the back of many devices, since those maintain positive pressure in all conditions.

A lot of people think RV outlets are cheap for the RV manufacture, but in fact, they are more expensive but designed and approved for that environment. When properly installed, the wires will not work loose from a self-contained device.

Now I expect a slew of comments of "Well, I had a bad experience with a self-contained outlet..." but almost always that was due to a faulty installation. You can mis-install a hospital-grade device as well. The self-contained device itself is usually very reliable and preferred in a vibration environment.

Foggy

Kalamazoo Mi. U.S.A.

Senior Member

Joined: 04/01/2001

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 01/30/21 11:23am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

"maintain positive pressure in all conditions"
Until they don't. With repeated changes in temperature and humidity they WILL fail.


Happy-Trails
Foggy


CharlesinGA

South of Atlanta, Georgia

Senior Member

Joined: 01/12/2016

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 02/08/21 08:52pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The push in back wire is so cheesy that its almost criminal. Thankfully the code allows wire no larger than 14 gauge and the hole is small enough you cannot get 12 gauge thru it. I refuse to wrap around a screw on an outlet. I buy the commercial/industrial backwire design that you insert the wire and tighten the screw and a knurled or serrated plate is drawn up to clamp the wire inside. If you tighten them properly they won't work loose.

Frankly, every couple of years you should go thru an RV electrical system and re-tighten everything, going so far as to open up transfer switches and other boxes that contain connections to tighten.

If you are interested in not having screws to work loose, use the Hubbell SnapConnect® type receptacles and then use the WAGO connectors to make the connections to the Romex™

https://www.hubbell.com/wiringdevice-kel........evices/SnapConnect-Receptacles/c/2027718

https://www.wago.com/us/lp-221

RV receptacles are designed and certified to be installed without a separate box. They ARE the box. I wished someone made a better version of them however, with quality connections and heavier spring tension contacts for the plugs to engage with. At home I use all commercial stuff that is actually difficult to plug into, but you get good contact.

Charles

* This post was edited 02/08/21 09:00pm by CharlesinGA *


'03 Ram 2500 CTD, 5.9HO six speed std cab long bed Leer top and 2008 Bigfoot 25B21RB.. previously 2008 Thor/Dutchman Freedom Spirit 180. SOLD - 2007 Winnebago View 23H Motorhome.

deltabravo

Spokane, WA

Senior Member

Joined: 09/08/2003

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 03/05/21 07:05am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Here's another video showing how I did it in my Nash 17k about 2 years or so ago.


2009 Silverado 3500HD Dually, D/A, CCLB 4x4 (bought new 8/30/09)
2009 Arctic Fox 811 (bought new 11/9/09)
2018 Timber Ridge 24RLS (bought pre-owned 3/12/20)
2008 Haulmark 8.5x20 toy box trailer

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 2  
Prev

Open Roads Forum  >  Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)

 > Adding a new 120 vac circuit and outlet
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Do It Yourself Modifications a...


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:




© 2021 CWI, Inc. © 2021 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.