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Open Roads Forum  >  Travel Trailers  >  General Q&A

 > Propane blockage

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foxyfades

El Paso

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Posted: 01/06/21 10:08pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have recently purchased first trailer and is bit of a fixer upper so I am fairly new to this. I have been trying out everything to see what works and does not work. I tried turning on my furnace, water heater, and stove with no success. Tanks about half full. I have tried switching tanks and switching lines but I can hear the gas filling line. When I removed line from the regulator to trailer you could smell the gas leak out so it seemed trapped. I attempted to blow out the lines with compressed air and debris shot back out, did not clear the line. Has anyone run into this or know someone who has? I would really appreciate any help. Thanks in advance.

Old-Biscuit

Verde Valley

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Posted: 01/06/21 11:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

LP System pressure is ONLY 0.39 psi downstream of the Regulator
If you tried blowing air into thru line:
1) Is has no place to go unless you disconnected a line/fitting somewhere on the supply line
2) Propane appliance gas vlaves are NOT to be subjected to pressures above 0.5 psi====can damage them

As for that LP issue
I would start with NEW Pigtail hoses (connect cylinders to regulator) and a New Auto-changeover regulator
Pigtails are subjected to full cylinder pressures and can fail internally
Regulator diaphragms weaken/fail/leak as they age


Is it time for your medication or mine?


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kellem

Shenandoah valley,VA

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Posted: 01/07/21 06:24am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Something else you may consider.

If the trailer sat for awhile, spiders and paper wasp love to make homes in the Propane orifices which are responsible for how much gas flows into the burners.

Had to remove mine several times over the years and clean with pipe cleaner.

That is after you replace the parts mentioned above because what I'm referring to is exterior burners only but just something to look out for.

Vintage465

Prunedale CA.

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Posted: 01/07/21 06:55am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

foxyfades wrote:

I have recently purchased first trailer and is bit of a fixer upper so I am fairly new to this. I have been trying out everything to see what works and does not work. I tried turning on my furnace, water heater, and stove with no success. Tanks about half full. I have tried switching tanks and switching lines but I can hear the gas filling line. When I removed line from the regulator to trailer you could smell the gas leak out so it seemed trapped. I attempted to blow out the lines with compressed air and debris shot back out, did not clear the line. Has anyone run into this or know someone who has? I would really appreciate any help. Thanks in advance.


When you try to light the stove with a match is there any pressure blowing either gas or air in the line? This will tell you if you have pressure to purge and light the burner.


V-465
2013 GMC 2500HD Duramax Denali. 2015 CreekSide 20fq w/450 watts solar and 465 amp/hour of batteries. Retiring in 2021, then look-out road, here we come!

JBarca

Radnor, Ohio, USA

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Posted: 01/07/21 09:44am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Vintage465 wrote:

foxyfades wrote:

I have recently purchased first trailer and is bit of a fixer upper so I am fairly new to this. I have been trying out everything to see what works and does not work. I tried turning on my furnace, water heater, and stove with no success. Tanks about half full. I have tried switching tanks and switching lines but I can hear the gas filling line. When I removed line from the regulator to trailer you could smell the gas leak out so it seemed trapped. I attempted to blow out the lines with compressed air and debris shot back out, did not clear the line. Has anyone run into this or know someone who has? I would really appreciate any help. Thanks in advance.


When you try to light the stove with a match is there any pressure blowing either gas or air in the line? This will tell you if you have pressure to purge and light the burner.


Since you are new to this, Vintage has it right. It takes "time" to purge the air out of the gas lines. Lighting a stove burner may take a few minutes the first time. BUT, you should hear a slight hissing sound out of the stove burner as the air is escaping. The gas will follow only after all the air is out and then it will light. Use a grill lighter at the burner like you are lighting it. Have the flame on and keep it on, before opening the burner valve. The flame should wiggle in the wind. Once the gas comes, it will light. Open a window/roof hatch to vent the camper.

If you have no air/gas hiss/flow at the stove burner, then there is a blockage.

As was stated, don't blow out the gas lines unless all the lines are unhooked from the gas appliances. First, you can jam crud into the gas valves, and second the excess pressure can damage the diaphragms gas valves and the stove regulator.

At this point, you did what you did and that is done. If dirt, rust and other junk spit back from the lines during your blow out, that is bad news. The LP system has no filter in it and tiny orifices.

My suggestion now is, unhook each gas line at each appliance. Unhook the low pressure vapor hose between the regulator and the hard gas pipe. That hose can only handle 1 psi. Check that the camper is piped with hard black iron pipe and then copper gas lines to the appliances. If there are hoses in those lines, they need to be unhooked as they may also be low pressure. Years back, the mains use to be hard piped, now I see newer campers with hose all the way to the appliance which is can be low pressure hose as it is cheaper then high pressure hose. If you have hard pipe, then blow out the lines and put the system back together. The low pressure hoses gravity drain them and only use 1 psi air to see they are clear.

THEN, put the system back together and you need to do 3 LP gas tests to make sure the system is sound, regulating at the correct pressures and you have no leaks.

1. A system pressure drop test
2. A main regulator pressure set point test
3. A main regulator lock up or max pressure test

You need a LP gas gauge or make your own manometer to do those 3 tests. If you never heard of them, do the research or hire a tech who can do the tests. Only attempt any of this if you have the skills to do so.

Odds are high, you will find something not right in the LP system and you need to address it when you find it, before using the camper.

Any used camper I get to restore or use, always gets those 3 checks before I ever attempt to use the camper. And then, once a year there after. RV gas components of today are throw away quality. They are built so cheap you cannot rebuild them, you replace. These are not the high quality gas components used in homes/industry of years ago.

Hope this helps.

John


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JBarca

Radnor, Ohio, USA

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Posted: 01/07/21 09:53am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Another thing to realize, the large green ACME nut at the LP tank has a flow restrictor in it. That is assuming your camper is new enough to have the green nut and not an all brass left hand thread fitting. Your stand alone BBQ grill has these, the nut is black, they change color for BTU capacity.

The green nut is a safety feature to protect the system from a blown hose, valve etc and letting the system run wide open. If you turn on the gas valve at the tank too fast, it will accidently trip the safety and extremely restrict the gas flow. This can and does happen all the time on a completely working system. You have to open the gas valve, very very slow, hear the gentle hiss, wait for the hiss to stop, then you can open the valve all the way until it stops.

If you tripped the safety, turn off the gas valve, unscrew the green nut, that will release the pressure and it resets the excess flow valve in the nut. Put it back on and try again.

That may have been part of the problem from the start if you did not realize this. Just cranking the valve open will have high odds of tripping this excess flow safety.

Hope this helps

John

MarkTwain

Northern, Ca. , USA

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Posted: 01/07/21 12:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

foxyfades wrote:

I have recently purchased first trailer and is bit of a fixer upper so I am fairly new to this. I have been trying out everything to see what works and does not work. I tried turning on my furnace, water heater, and stove with no success. Tanks about half full. I have tried switching tanks and switching lines but I can hear the gas filling line. When I removed line from the regulator to trailer you could smell the gas leak out so it seemed trapped. I attempted to blow out the lines with compressed air and debris shot back out, did not clear the line. Has anyone run into this or know someone who has? I would really appreciate any help. Thanks in advance.


Just a long shot but when you open up your tank valves, just turn it a couple of turns, don't open the valve all the way open. Then go to your stove and light it up, leave the ignitor on the pilot orofice until the stove burner comes on. Then go out to your propane tank and open the valve all the way open

Old-Biscuit

Verde Valley

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Posted: 01/07/21 12:40pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Excess flow devices ....
To reset just close the cylinder valve/wait 30 seconds and SLOWLY open
**No need to disconnect AMCME Nut, NO need to open anything down stream
Device trips due to increased floe....leave system pressurized and it will reset when you reopen the valve


Propane valves........SLOWLY Open FULLY or Close FULLY
The valves have seats that seal in FULLY open/Closed positions
During transition from Closed to Open to Closed the valve stem is seal via a packing gland. Valves are intended to be FULLY Opened/Closed
Packing gland is subjected to Full Propane pressure (100# - 250# +)
Do NOT rely on them .....

Lwiddis

Bishop area, California

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Posted: 01/07/21 04:42pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Are you “messing” with propane while having no experience? Dangerous bordering on foolish.


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Old-Biscuit

Verde Valley

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Posted: 01/09/21 03:44pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Lwiddis wrote:

Are you “messing” with propane while having no experience? Dangerous bordering on foolish.


Unless one is walking around with a flaming torch WHY not?
Best to learn in a very low pressure system
Besides propane has a NARROW flammability range

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