RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Class C Motorhomes: Forrester 2151SLE

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Class C Motorhomes

Open Roads Forum  >  Class C Motorhomes  >  Class C

 > Forrester 2151SLE

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Sponsored By:
Cardinals

New York

Full Member

Joined: 03/08/2008

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 01/07/21 05:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My wife and I are considering the purchase of the Forrester Class C 2151SLE. We have had travel trailers for many years and are now looking at a change. I have read the segments on the differences in camping with a Class C vs Travel Trailer, now asking about the Forrester itself and if anyone has had any experience with the unit or company. Thank you

Lwiddis

near Bishop, California

Senior Member

Joined: 08/12/2016

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 01/07/21 05:40pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

That C doesn’t have a walk around bed. Is the “other party,” who doesn’t need a middle of the night potty break at that time going to...understand?


Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2020 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, 300 watt solar-parallel & MPPT, Trojan T-125s. TALL flag pole. Prefer USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state & county camps. Bicyclist! 14 year Army vet-11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad


Cardinals

New York

Full Member

Joined: 03/08/2008

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 01/08/21 02:54am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Got it, thanks

Rick Jay

Greater Springfield area, MA

Senior Member

Joined: 02/02/2003

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 01/08/21 12:49pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Did you look at the 2251SLE? It has the bed on a slide out AND a slightly larger dinette. Plus, I think the bench style dinettes are more comfortable than the U-shaped dinettes if you're trying to seat more then 2 people. The U-shape units seem to be short on leg/feet room underneath.

BUT...the holding tanks are a bit smaller on the 2251.

I guess it depends how you're going to use the rig?

Or, go a bit over 4' longer to the 2551 and you have the best of both models, PLUS a couch AND the bathroom sink is in the same room as the commode, which was always important to us. And a little bit of actual counter space for food prep.

Good Luck in your search!

~Rick


2005 Georgie Boy Cruise Master 3625 DS on a Workhorse W-22
Rick, Gail, 1 girl (24-Angel since 2008), 1 girl (19), 2 boys (20 & 17).
2001 Honda Odyssey, Demco Aluminator tow bar & tow plate, SMI Silent Partner brake controller.


ron.dittmer

North-East Illinois

Senior Member

Joined: 02/26/2007

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 01/09/21 06:57am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi Cardinals,

Regarding your floor plan. One thing you will want to get a fitment for is the driver seat when the slide out is put away. For such a design, the slide out will interfere with the adjustment of the seat. It is a common complaint with taller people, sometimes so bad that they regret their purchase. With the slide out put away, sit in the driver seat, set it as far back as you deem most comfortable, then adjust the back rest to a comfortable driving position. You might find that you cannot position the seat properly for your driving comfort.

My wife and I are turning 63 this year. Our floor plan is very similar to the one you are considering. As others have stated, the rear corner bed is going to become a bigger and bigger challenge as we get older and older. So far, so good for us. We are not overweight people with good hips and knees so our mobility is still good. But who knows what the future holds for us.

You will want to determine the model year of the Ford E350 or E450 chassis. The chassis could be one model year older having the older 6.8L-V10 engine. Or it could be a current model year with the new 7.3L-V8 engine that is more powerful and more fuel efficient. The past 1.5 years has been a "transition" period for the Ford E350 and E450 chassis, so new motor homes being sold today could have older technology or the latest chassis technology with their associated benefits in fuel efficiency, performance, and comfort.

If your rig is for just two people, I strongly advise to avoid a design with a large front over-head bunk. The long winded post below will clarify this comment. The post also needs a little update-tweaking on some chassis specs to reflect 2021.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

New, used, or well used, when shopping for a conventional class B+ or C, the most important consideration is how it is constructed. This post outlines construction methods which are most affordable and methods that cost more, but are built to hold up much better to the elements and also the punishment of the road.

Some motor home manufactures offer different levels of quality through their various model lines. Instead of providing a list of brands to consider, it is best to identify what "Better" is.

When shopping for a motor home, don't get distracted with "Eye Candy" and "Square Footage". You want to pay close attention to how the house is constructed. Water infiltration is the number one killer of motor homes, rotting them away long before anything is worn out. Once water gets inside, it is like termites. By the time you realize there is a problem, a lot of damage has already occurred. Also consider that mold & mildew can grow inside the walls which then you have a health hazard. My advise focuses on identifying a reliably well sealed motor home.

#1 BEST (Very Expensive, Can Be 1.5 times the cost of Second Best)
NO structural seam work. The brand Coach House is a fine example. It is seamless, made from a mold. The only places where water can leak is cutouts for windows, entry door, roof-top vents & a/c unit, storage compartments & maintenance access, all of which are in areas of very low stress. Because they have a seamless shell, these motor homes are not common and have a limited selection of sizes and floor plans.

#2 SECOND BEST
Common, Affordable, & comes in Many Sizes so this is my main focus
I own an example of this type. My Rig Here manufactured by Phoenix USA.
Made in sections, but assembled in a way that greatly reduces the threat of water damage. Here are the good things you want to look for.

a) Structural Seams Away From Corners
When a motor home is driven, the house bounces, resonates, shakes, and leans countless times, representing a endless series of earthquakes. Corner seams see greater stresses than seams located elsewhere. Corner seams are more easily split, especially when the caulk gets brittle with age & exposure to the sun. One extremely bad bump in the road can instantly breach a corner seam. Seams hold up much better when they are brought in from the corners in lesser stressed areas.

b) A Seamless Over-The-Van Front Cap
A huge bed above the van’s roof is the most vulnerable area of a motor home. No matter how well they are made, that long frontal over-hang resonates when the RV is driven making it common for seams to split there, most troublesome with age & exposure to the elements. HERE is an example, one of many water-damage threads I have read. Scroll down in that thread to see pictures of the real damage.

The small front aerodynamic cap of a B+ design HERE eliminates the overhang which eliminates most of the resonation, along with the most vulnerable seam work.

There are a few conventional “C” Designs (big over-van bed) where that area is seamless. If you absolutely must have that huge bed, then look for a seamless bucket-like design. The Itasca Navion is a fine example. If your requirements are to have a large class-C with a massive over-van bed, the best example I seen was this Fleetwood Tioga model offered around 2008-2009. It is unfortunate all class-Cs don't practice seamless cab-over area construction for it would greatly improve the class-C industry.

Increasing in popularity by many manufactures is a shallow bucket design with fewer seams located in less-stressed areas. The Nexus Triumph is one such example. This shallow bucket design is a reasonable compromise.

If you plan to accommodate more than 2 people, having that large extra cab-over bed will be extremely useful.

c) A Crowned Roof
Rain and snow melt runs off a crowned roof. A flat roof will sag over time, then water puddles around heavy roof-top items like the a/c unit. Water eventually finds it's way inside after gaskets & caulk have degraded from age, sun, and change in seasons.

d) Rolled-Over-The-Edge seamless Fiberglass Roof Sheathing
A single sheet of fiberglass as shown HERE that rolls over the right & left sides of the roof, down to the wall. The overlapping of fiberglass to the wall provides a good water seal and the fiberglass sheathing holds up better than roofs made of sheet rubber or thin plastic called TPO, which require more attention to keep your RV well protected.

e) A Five Sided Rear Wall Cap
A five sided back wall moves the seams around to the sides to areas of much less stress as seen HERE. The rear wall resembles a shallow rectangular cooking pan standing on it's side. Like the example, some rear wall sections are constructed with an integrated spare tire compartment and rear storage compartment. Not only are they convenience features, but that rear wall/cap offers a solid double-wall for exceptional strength which is more resistant to flexing the adjoining seam work. It helps in keeping the house together.

Don't be fooled. Some manufactures add rear wall sectional styling which gives the appearance of a 5-sided pan design. Though not as desirable, they are still an improvement because all the holes for lighting and such are not in the structural wall where water could otherwise get inside the house. You can easily tell by noting the sections & seams between them and the flat back wall that remains exposed. CLICK HERE to see an example.

f) Walls Are Either Resting On The Floor Or Bolted Against It
Common sense would say the walls should rest on the floor, but some manufactures actually bolt the walls into the side of the floor framing. This means the weight of the roof and walls (and everything hanging on them) rests on mounting bolts. How well will that method hold up when being driven for so many thousands of miles? Checking for this is very difficult. It takes a trained eye for sure. CLICK HERE for an example of it done right with the walls resting on the floor.

Bigger Will Be Weaker
The size & floor plan you select MUST FIRST meet your needs before this consideration.
The bigger the house, the weaker the structure will be. Consider two cardboard boxes made from the exact same corrugated material. The smaller box would naturally be stronger. It will be more resistant to bending, twisting, and other types of flexing. So if you are on the fence between models, the smaller one will be your stronger choice.

Potentially Troublesome Construction
Entry level motor homes are made with seams in corners and finished off with trim, including the massive cab-over bed. Their roof is flat and finished with rubber or TPO. They are most affordable, and come in all sizes. HERE is one such example. If considering this construction type, keep in-mind they require more regular care with bi-annual inspections. Plan to use a caulking gun now and then. When buying a used one, consider that you really don't know how well the previous owner maintained it. Buying new or used, that construction method will be counting on you to be a good non-neglectful owner.

There are also the rare exception of the Lazy Daze which has seam work in the corners, but the substructure and sealing method is of the highest quality that it holds up like a seamless body. It's excellent sectional construction methods are not commonly found in other brands. I am no expert on this, but I'd give it a #1.5 Almost Like Best

A Caution Concerning Slide Outs
Slide outs are most popular. Everybody loves the extra floor space they provide. There are so few motor homes made without at least one slide out. Unfortunately slide outs can introduce risk of water damage to the main floor around them. Good seals work when the rig is young, but can loose their ability to seal properly as they age. When looking at used rigs with slide outs, closely examine the main floor around each one. If you can lift the carpet adjacent to the slide out and see the wood floor is a gray color, that is a sign that water gets inside. Also, completely open the slide out and step on the main floor adjacent to the slide out. If it feels soft, the plywood or chip board material underneath likely requires replacing.

About The Chassis
The most popular is the Ford E350 and E450 with the V10 engine and this year Ford replaces that 6.8L-V10 with a larger, more powerful 7.3L-V8. The Ford Transit diesel and the Mercedes Sprinter diesel are popular alternatives to the E350 in the smaller sizes. The GM 3500 & 4500 chassis are not popular but are a very good choice for the right application. Any of the chassis mentioned made since 1998 are real good, new or used. If you plan to tow a car or heavy trailer, be aware that the Transit and Sprinter will be least powered. People who tow with them naturally take it slower. I am not sure a Transit can tow anything significant. That needs further research.

If considering a recent “small” class B+ or C motor home, here is a comparison between the two current main chassis contenders, the Sprinter with the V6 diesel engine and the Ford E350 with the V10 gasoline engine.

Advantages Of The Mercedes Sprinter With Diesel Engine
- Offers a 35%-50% improvement in fuel economy over the Ford-V10, when both are loaded and driven identically.
- More ergonomic driver compartment with more leg room.
- Comfort continues with a car-like feel & quiet ride.
- A grander view out the windshield
- Made by Mercedes which people are attracted to.

Advantages Of The Ford E350 with V10 Engine or larger V8 engine
- Given identical motor homes both brand and model, the Ford is around $24,000 MSRP cheaper
- The Ford V10 engine has 50% more horse power and torque
- The Ford E350 chassis handles 1430 pounds more weight.
- The E350 is able to tow a heavier load.
- The E350 rear axle is significantly wider which translates to better stability.
- In most places traveled, gasoline costs less than diesel fuel
- The Sprinter diesel has limited mechanical service shops around North America
- The Sprinter diesel is typically outfitted with a propane generator. Propane is a critical fuel for RV operations, and generally needs to be rationed when dry camping.
- This Next Point Is Debatable But Still Worth Noting....The V6 Sprinter diesel engine is not allowed to idle for extended periods. This limitation is detrimental when you need a/c but there are generator restrictions, you are low on propane, or you have a mechanical failure with the generator or roof a/c. The Ford offers a great backup system. The V10 can safely idle for hours on end, heating, cooling, and battery charging, all valuable if you have a baby, pets, or health/respiratory issues.

You decide what your priorities are, and pick the appropriate chassis. There are some really sweet motor homes being built exclusively on the Sprinter chassis, such as the Winnebago Navion and View.

The Ford Transit Chassis
This chassis is increasing in popularity in the smallest sizes. According to Ford's website, the Transit DRW chassis is offered in the 156", and 178" wheel base, and is rated as high as 10,360 GVWR. Ford offers a motor home package specific for the RV industry. It's diesel engine compares to the Sprinter in power and fuel economy, but is more affordable and is easily serviced at Ford service centers, just like the E350 & E450. The cab has a lower stance than the Sprinter making it much more friendly to get into and out from for people in their later years. Entering and exiting is more like a mini-van rather than a standard van. The Transit's lower cab also offers roomier over-head bunks that are easier to access.

The Dodge Promaster 3500 Cut-Away Chassis
This front wheel drive chassis is another recent entry in the RV industry. I am concerned over it's lack of load capability as reflected with single free-wheeling rear wheels. I have been reading posts written by new Promaster RV owners stating they are over-weight with just two people, some personal effects and food. They say they can't carry water and never a 3rd person. I would not be comfortable with such a limited load range in a B+ or C. This chassis does seem to be a good option in the "B" motor home market.

The Chevy 3500 & 4500 Chassis
Unfortunately this chassis is not more popular, primarily because GM sort-of gave up on competing with the Ford E350 & E450. It offers more interior comfort than the Ford, but not as much as the Sprinter. It's power & weight ratings are a little less than their Ford counter-parts making them a great chassis for all but the heaviest of class Cs. They are also a little better on fuel consumption. One thing to keep in-mind, if you are counting inches in storing your rig, the Chevy is a little longer than the Ford by a number of inches which was critical for us with our garage as seen HERE with our Ford 2007 E350 rig. That could be the reason why the Chevy has a little more interior driver/passenger leg room.

The Ford E350 & E450
The majority of class B+ and C motor homes are built on one of these two chassis for a number of very good reasons, and with the changes in recent years to the engine and transmission, the good reasons increase. They have more power and load capability than the others. Ford approves outfitters to modify the chassis to increase or decrease the wheel base which supplies motor home companies a lot of design freedom. Ford has off-the-shelf components that work with the wheel base modification. So if you need a new drive shaft, fuel line, brake line, parking brake cable, wire harness, whatever, Ford has them available. Finally, the E350 and E450 chassis is competitively priced.

Engine Power Ratings of Ford, MB-Sprinter, Chevy, and Dodge
Ford E350 & E450 - 6.8L-V10, 305hp, 420ft (7.3L-V8 starting in 2020)
Ford Transit Diesel - 3.2L-I5, 185hp, 350ft
Mercedes Sprinter Diesel - 3.0L-V6, 188hp, 325ft
Chevy 3500 & 4500 - 6.0L-V8, 323hp, 373ft
Dodge Promaster - 3.6L-V6 (GVW only 9,300 pounds)

Now to supply some data as to why I feel our Phoenix Cruiser stands above most other brands. These two videos drag on, but provide lots of data and also clarify critical things to look for when evaluating any brand.

CLICK HERE on a comparison between a Phoenix Cruiser and an undisclosed brand. I think it is a Nexus. There is a lot of nit-picking but is notable when adding it all up. It is also educational on what makes a better motor home...of coarse at a higher price too.

CLICK HERE for a slideshow on how a Phoenix Cruiser is built. I feel this slide show teaches so much, especially about hidden things that unsuspecting buyers would never think about.

* This post was last edited 01/09/21 07:15am by ron.dittmer *   View edit history


2007 Phoenix Cruiser model 2350, with 2006 Jeep Liberty in-tow


bobndot

USA

Senior Member

Joined: 08/21/2007

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 01/09/21 12:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have the non slide version, a 2350LE Sunseeker.


From TT to rv , expect to hear things clanging around inside the rv when you drive. You do not hear all that when towing a TT. It takes a little bit of work to tweak it.

Its rv #11 for us and we really love this rv.

FR and our dealer had an established positive reputation that allowed them to work together to resolve all minor issues. That's a big plus.

It has Azdel walls if that matters to you. It also has VG R-values, it's a very warm rv. Of course your slide model may be a little different. Less R-value in a slide. It also cools off very well using the 15k AC unit at a 99F humid temp.

***ask where the slide breakers and motor are located in case you need to swap it out one day. Ask how to swap out the slide motor, some are very difficult.
I always carried a spare, slide motor, freshwater water pump and LP regulator. They can often be transferred between rvs.
**ask how to manually retract your model of outside awning. It can be a tad difficult to operate one these class C's with the awning and slide stuck in the 'out' position. [emoticon]



Our option upgrades .
Serta pillowtop mattress, which is perfect being that we spend 1/3 of our life there.
We also upgraded to a porcelain toilet , where it seems like we spend another 1/3 of our life.
100 watt solar panel on roof plus another 100w as a portable system.

Battery Isolator Manger: Its not just an isolator.
Located behind an access panel at the entry steps , my unit has a BIM to keep the coach and chassis batteries charged while driving. It alternates the 20 minute charge time from one bank to the other.

While plugged into shore power and the cut-off switch turned 'ON' both banks will charge in the same manner using shore power or the generator. Otherwise the chassis batt will die off in a week or so.
That's the reason they installed an emergency start switch under the drivers seat. It activates the coach bank., so you can start the rv

**to use the generator,
I 'do not' have a transfer switch, I have to physically plug into the 30amp power inlet located in the rear most compartment on the drivers side. Just in case you start the gennny and you have no power...plug it in or switch on the transfer switch.

I added a 100w solar panel that keeps all my batts charged 24/7.

It has fully heated water system and easy access heated water pump and by-pass system. The freshwater tank that is under the bed is heated as well as below the sinks. The raised floor in the bed/bath area allows heat to travel E/W from the area below the bed to the bathroom sink. It makes a good 'snowbird' rv from NY to FL.

Make sure you work into the deal a real good positive caster alignment on an E450 front end. The dealers do not align them when they get them on their lot.

I had to spend a few thousand on suspension upgrades to get my Ford to handle better. I would buy it on a GM if possible.

The U dinette is ok for meals but if you want to sit and watch tv or a movie, You might want to look into a dinette mod or set of recliners that will fit in the slide.

pnichols

The Other California

Senior Member

Joined: 04/26/2005

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member


Posted: 01/09/21 12:05pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ron.dittmer wrote:

Hi Cardinals,

Regarding your floor plan. One thing you will want to get a fitment for is the driver seat when the slide out is put away. For such a design, the slide out will interfere with the adjustment of the seat. It is a common complaint with taller people, sometimes so bad that they regret their purchase. With the slide out put away, sit in the driver seat, set it as far back as you deem most comfortable, then adjust the back rest to a comfortable driving position. You might find that you cannot position the seat properly for your driving comfort.

My wife and I are turning 63 this year. Our floor plan is very similar to the one you are considering. As others have stated, the rear corner bed is going to become a bigger and bigger challenge as we get older and older. So far, so good for us. We are not overweight people with good hips and knees so our mobility is still good. But who knows what the future holds for us.

You will want to determine the model year of the Ford E350 or E450 chassis. The chassis could be one model year older having the older 6.8L-V10 engine. Or it could be a current model year with the new 7.3L-V8 engine that is more powerful and more fuel efficient. The past 1.5 years has been a "transition" period for the Ford E350 and E450 chassis, so new motor homes being sold today could have older technology or the latest chassis technology with their associated benefits in fuel efficiency, performance, and comfort.

If your rig is for just two people, I strongly advise to avoid a design with a large front over-head bunk. The long winded post below will clarify this comment. The post also needs a little update-tweaking on some chassis specs to reflect 2021.


Ron, I have a different perspective with respect to your sentence above advising against a large front over-head bunk.

There's two of us and one small dog on our RV trips in our 24 foot Class C of the "classic design" (with the normal full queen bed above the cab). The wife has back problems so she gets the entire corner bed in the back, and as such has plenty of maneuvering room when sleeping in it and wiggle-room for getting into and out of it. I get to use the entire overhead cab bed for sleeping and it's a whole bunch of room for sleeping. The wife is 75 and I'm 78. Winnebago even designed in a switch right by the overhead cab bed that turns on a floor light back by the bathroom to light my path for nighttime toilet trips. By the way, the complete "classic" overhead cab area in a Class C is an excellent design for shading the entire cab area and hence keeping the sun off the cab area when traveling and camped during warm weather.

When traveling I push the back half of the overhead cab bed slightly upwards and forward a couple of feet so as to rest it up onto the front half and thus expose the underbed floor cutout that makes it easy to enter and exit the cab seats while nearly standing up. When traveling we can secure and store a lot of soft stuff on the remaining overhead cab bed surface area and on the two overhead cab floor "wings" that stick out slightly above the driver and passenger seats.

We love our two queen beds for each of us to sleep in. We have occasionally had to use the additional full bed we get by dropping the hinged dinette tabletop and spreading out the seat cushions to make the mattress for it. Our small dog-person sleeps and travels in her own crate sitting on one of the dinette seats secured with a seatbelt.

FWIW and somewhat related, there's an excellent video somewhere on YouTube showing how an older couple lives full time in a 24 foot classic Class C, with most/a lot of it being drycamping. It's very interesting how they do it in complete comfort for two adults.


Phil, 2005 E450 Itasca Spirit 24V

ron.dittmer

North-East Illinois

Senior Member

Joined: 02/26/2007

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 01/09/21 02:29pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

pnichols wrote:

ron.dittmer wrote:

Hi Cardinals,

Regarding your floor plan. One thing you will want to get a fitment for is the driver seat when the slide out is put away. For such a design, the slide out will interfere with the adjustment of the seat. It is a common complaint with taller people, sometimes so bad that they regret their purchase. With the slide out put away, sit in the driver seat, set it as far back as you deem most comfortable, then adjust the back rest to a comfortable driving position. You might find that you cannot position the seat properly for your driving comfort.

My wife and I are turning 63 this year. Our floor plan is very similar to the one you are considering. As others have stated, the rear corner bed is going to become a bigger and bigger challenge as we get older and older. So far, so good for us. We are not overweight people with good hips and knees so our mobility is still good. But who knows what the future holds for us.

You will want to determine the model year of the Ford E350 or E450 chassis. The chassis could be one model year older having the older 6.8L-V10 engine. Or it could be a current model year with the new 7.3L-V8 engine that is more powerful and more fuel efficient. The past 1.5 years has been a "transition" period for the Ford E350 and E450 chassis, so new motor homes being sold today could have older technology or the latest chassis technology with their associated benefits in fuel efficiency, performance, and comfort.

If your rig is for just two people, I strongly advise to avoid a design with a large front over-head bunk. The long winded post below will clarify this comment. The post also needs a little update-tweaking on some chassis specs to reflect 2021.
Ron, I have a different perspective with respect to your sentence above advising against a large front over-head bunk.

There's two of us and one small dog on our RV trips in our 24 foot Class C of the "classic design" (with the normal full queen bed above the cab). The wife has back problems so she gets the entire corner bed in the back, and as such has plenty of maneuvering room when sleeping in it and wiggle-room for getting into and out of it. I get to use the entire overhead cab bed for sleeping and it's a whole bunch of room for sleeping. The wife is 75 and I'm 78. Winnebago even designed in a switch right by the overhead cab bed that turns on a floor light back by the bathroom to light my path for nighttime toilet trips. By the way, the complete "classic" overhead cab area in a Class C is an excellent design for shading the entire cab area and hence keeping the sun off the cab area when traveling and camped during warm weather.

When traveling I push the back half of the overhead cab bed slightly upwards and forward a couple of feet so as to rest it up onto the front half and thus expose the underbed floor cutout that makes it easy to enter and exit the cab seats while nearly standing up. When traveling we can secure and store a lot of soft stuff on the remaining overhead cab bed surface area and on the two overhead cab floor "wings" that stick out slightly above the driver and passenger seats.

We love our two queen beds for each of us to sleep in. We have occasionally had to use the additional full bed we get by dropping the hinged dinette tabletop and spreading out the seat cushions to make the mattress for it. Our small dog-person sleeps and travels in her own crate sitting on one of the dinette seats secured with a seatbelt.

FWIW and somewhat related, there's an excellent video somewhere on YouTube showing how an older couple lives full time in a 24 foot classic Class C, with most/a lot of it being drycamping. It's very interesting how they do it in complete comfort for two adults.
Hi pnichols,

You missed my point about the over-head bunk. If you need that bunk, then shop with other construction methods in-mind.

You utilize your over-head bunk as intended and so it is good that you have it. But if you did not utilize it, then it's best not to get a class C with it.

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 

Open Roads Forum  >  Class C Motorhomes  >  Class C

 > Forrester 2151SLE
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Class C Motorhomes


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:




© 2021 CWI, Inc. © 2021 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.