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Open Roads Forum  >  Truck Campers

 > Lithium and DC-DC Charger?

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Ramblin' Ralph

Central California Coast

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Posted: 01/08/21 07:47pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Responses to comments since my last post:

- I already have a battery isolator under my hood
- Based on my previous experience with lead acid, I think a 100 AH lithium will fit my needs. No high draw items except for the furnace fan. All lights are LED.
- Have a variety of reasons for not sticking with lead acid : Last ones didn't last long; Won't have to check the water; Lighter weight for my old body; Most likely this will be my last set of batteries, so I thought I would try the "newest trend".

Was going to buy a $900 Battleborn, but checked Amazon and found a $540 one with very good reviews (due late Jan). Even if it doesn't last as long as a Battleborn, it will be long enough for me. [emoticon] Probably will put in a 20 amp dc-to-dc charger.
Lithium Choice

Thanks for the comments. Always good to get other opinions.

Ralph


Ralph
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jaycocreek

Idaho

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Posted: 01/08/21 08:06pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ralph,I was looking at that one also...I am still weighing everything out but that one seems like a good one for my use also and most likely the last battery I will ever buy...My group 27 house battery is starting to show its age..If you get it,keep us up on how you like it...


1994 F-350 DRW /460/k&n intake /415# torque/lance 9.6/Engel compressor fridge/3 gr 27 batteries/Honda 2k/Honda 3K/WH Camo 2250/Reese solid bar extension/Buddy heater/3 inverters//Happi Jack tie downs /Firestone bags/Yamaha Rhino/Winch and Lockers

GULFMAN

MOORESVILLE, NC,USA

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Posted: 01/15/21 03:58pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would like to do the same, charge one battle born 100amp battery to run a compressor refrigerator in the back seat of my truck.
Where can I find the size of my factor alternator in my 2002 7.3 powerstroke to determine the size of dc to dc charger.
Looking at dc to dc charger with built in mppt solar charge controller for when Setting still.
Any information Will appreciated.

Thanks

NRALIFR

Truck Camping Out West

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Posted: 01/15/21 05:53pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

When I get on Autozone and look up an alternator for a 2002 F350 with a 7.3, I get a bunch of 110 amp alternators to choose from.

The better question however, is how many amps does the compressor fridge draw when running, then size the DC-DC charger a little larger. You could actually size it at exactly the same as the running amps because the compressor isn’t going to be running all the time normally. Don’t size it less though, you don’t want the charger to always be playing catch-up recharging the battery.

[emoticon][emoticon]


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deltabravo

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Posted: 01/16/21 06:51am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

NRALIFR wrote:

Even in a TC, the charging circuit to the camper batteries is surprisingly long, and while you can minimize the voltage drop, you can’t eliminate it. Install a DC-DC charger with adequately sized wires and forget about voltage drop entirely.


Ditto on charging cable upgrade. this is my project with 4AWG cables between the truck and camper.


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c.traveler2

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Posted: 01/24/21 06:27pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ramblin' Ralph wrote:

My two group 27 lead acid batteries need replacing. Even though I'm too old to get maximum benefit from lithium longevity, I am thinking about going with a single 100 AH LifePO4 lithium. Doing some research it appears that a DC - DC charger is needed between the truck alternator and camper battery to protect the alternator. Would this still be required with only one 100 AH battery? Truck is a 2006 GMC 2500HD. Also have 125w of solar.

Thanks,
Ralph


hi Ralph it's awhile since I've visited RV.net. I'll tell you about what I'm using that does both solar and dc-dc in a single unit and I've been using for over a year. I'm going post a link to the story I wrote for Truck Camper Adventure. If you don't have a compressor refrigerator one Lithium battery (100ah) should do you fine.

Renogy unit


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NRALIFR

Truck Camping Out West

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Posted: 01/24/21 07:20pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Alex, I like your review of the Renogy unit. I’m glad to see more TC owners making use of them. In my opinion, they are just what some of us have been needing for years.

Your installation looks very much like mine using a Redarc 40 amp DC-DC charger. Mine has a solar input as well, which I’m not using yet but probably will at some point. I used 4 AWG wires on mine as well. It works very well, and I’m glad I went that route.

It’s nice seeing someone else come to the same conclusions I did about their value. You said “having the Renogy DC50s in your camper increases the likelihood of your batteries arriving at close to a full charge when you arrive at camp.” That is exactly what I’ve been saying about mine. I can’t overstate the importance of that for me. I need to be ready to dry camp for at least a few nights at all times, and arriving at my destination with a depleted battery just, at minimum, makes my job more difficult, and at times takes options off the table for me.

Thanks for the update on your install.

[emoticon][emoticon]

wintersun

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Posted: 01/25/21 05:57pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Add the Precision Circuits LI-BIM along with the lithium battery. It is sold by Battle Born and others and serves to protect the lithium battery from overly aggressive alternator charging.

A single 100AH lead acid provides 50AH of charge capacity for whatever you are operating off 12VDC. A 100AH lithium battery provides up to 100AH of capacity or double that of the lead acid. My RV only has space for two Group 31 batteries and so I removed the two flooded ones and put in two Lithionics 125AH lithium phosphate batteries.

An unexpected bonus is that the lithium recharge to 100% SOC is less than a quarter the time of the flooded batteries. The solar panels and charge controller is also more effective as more charge can be applied while there is enough daylight.

NRALIFR

Truck Camping Out West

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Posted: 01/25/21 07:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Would a lithium battery that’s being charged by a DC-DC charger that’s limited to 50 amps output and fused on the input side at 50, 60, or even 75 amps on the input side even need an LI-BIM?

[emoticon][emoticon]

deltabravo

Spokane, WA

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Posted: 01/25/21 09:12pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I ordered the Renogy unit and returned it two days later. The reason for returning it was because it was too big for the extremely limited space in my AF992.

About the same time I returned it, I discovered Victron makes a DC to DC charger. It's smaller capacity, but will serve my needs. It's the Orion Smart TR 12-12 / 30 unit. Like all my other Victron kit, I can configure / monitor it through the Victron Connect Bluetooth App.

The Victron unit is about 1/3 the size of the Renogy.

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