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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > Lifepo4 battery in 1990 Lance?

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Itinerant1

Itinerant

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Posted: 01/13/21 07:28pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I can charge at 100ah with the 2200w or 2000w Honda generator. I've gone from 30% to 100% in just over 3.5 hours. Now if we add the solar and the generator I've dumped 165ah in to move things along a little quicker.


12v 500ah (5,120Wh usable), 20 cells_ 4s5p (GBS LFMP battery system). 8 CTI 160 watt panels (1,280 watts)2s4p,Panels mounted flat. Magnum PT100 SCC, Magnum 3012 hybrid inverter, ME-ARC 50. Installed 4/2016 been on 24/7/365, daily 35-40% DOD 1,600+ cycles.

BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 01/13/21 08:18pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Itinerant1 wrote:

I can charge at 100ah with the 2200w or 2000w Honda generator. I've gone from 30% to 100% in just over 3.5 hours. Now if we add the solar and the generator I've dumped 165ah in to move things along a little quicker.


OK, 70% of 500 is 350AH restored in 3.5 hours so 100 amp charging. AFAIK that means your charger must be PF corrected to run on the 2200 gen, but that might depend on the charging voltage. Can't remember what you charge at.

14.6v at 100 amps for charger output is 1460w and with 85% efficiency typical that means input is 1718w which a 2200 can do (near its max running VA) if PF is near 1. A typical non-PF corrected charger has PF 0.7, so then that 1718w is 2454VA--way above a 2200;s max running VA.

I have an example from a few years ago with the 5er, where I had a Honda 3000, 155 amps worth of chargers (100 of that was PF corrected and FLA bank was at 584AH allowing for the 35F temp at the time.

I used the 2 hour gen time allowed from 9-11am. Amps tapered at 61% after 32 minutes, then tapered down to 65 amps at 1100, when I stopped, restoring 214 AH in the two hours and at 87% SOC (all the way I figure it with the help of my Trimetric)

So you could try to match those for a proper comparison by evening up the charging amps, the charging time, bank size in AH etc.. but I am not sure what it would prove for real life camping.

I was very happy to get 214 restored in just two hours--that was all I needed to keep camping, and I was not bothered by that much gen time.

Also if you have two hours of gen time and no solar and you start low in SOC where the FLAs still take the high amps, then if you have a 100 amp charger, the most you can restore is 200 amps. So almost no advantage for the LFP over the FLA starting at 50%, but starting at 75% and run for two hours--ah ha! LFP does way more AH because no tapering in that high an SOC range.

So main thing, is when the salesman says his thing "charges faster" you want to pin him down to the exact scenario he is using to make that claim.


1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
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2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

Itinerant1

Itinerant

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Posted: 01/13/21 08:31pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Depending on the season 14.1v or 14.2v mainly 14.1v though.

MEXICOWANDERER

las peƱas, michoacan, mexico

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Posted: 01/13/21 10:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The label on the converter.
3 amps charge rate?
Is this not a BW Magnatek buzzbox?
A ripple champipple noisemaker with giant resistor?

Leechcraft and Hemlock cummerbund grade technology?
The Arch Duke of battery destroyers?

Their only value was to hurl it out a window to twang a barking dog.

BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 01/13/21 10:31pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

OP ignore! Mex online here so- Mex you missed your photo

https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fusea........n/thread/tid/30170825/srt/pd/pging/1.cfm

Ok, back to regular programming for the OP.

jaycocreek

Idaho

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Posted: 01/14/21 06:27am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The problem I have connecting the external batteries(wheel well bats) to the house system is,the front drivers side wheel well is where they mounted the 7-pin trailer plug either for a TC or as fifth wheel and the rear is consumed by the bathroom..I did at one time wedge a group 24 in there so it would not move but it has sense run it's course in the battery world..All my room is on the passengers side, opposite side of the built in battery..

I did read about a guy that used a 100ah lithium as a stand alone for his compressor refer and charged it every day with his Yamaha gens set and a Noco genius 2600 that he said fully charged in less than two hours...I totally understand my '90's system is prehistoric compared to modern systems but I am on the fence in upgrading it as it is serving it's purpose as is which is mainly the water pump and lights.

Thanks for the replies as I try to soak it all in..LOL


1994 F-350 DRW /460/k&n intake /415# torque/lance 9.6/Engel compressor fridge/3 gr 27 batteries/Honda 2k/Honda 3K/WH Camo 2250/Reese solid bar extension/Buddy heater/3 inverters//Happi Jack tie downs /Firestone bags/Yamaha Rhino/Winch and Lockers

BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 01/14/21 10:16am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Our 5er had about 45 ft (one way) of #6 between battery and DC fuse panel and everything worked no problem. They went up and down via the ceiling, crazy way to do it [emoticon]

You might have 20 ft one way from right front of bed to say back of camper left side and up some, so you could use #8 wire for your amps (20ft red and 20 ft black)

You have to forgo proper balancing and use the OEM battery to take the load/charging wires and have the one in the truck bed as a "downstream battery" in parallel, but this is not a big deal with low amp draws.

The wiring can just go along the truck bed and the camper can sit on it, won't hurt anything.

You can toss the 27 in the front right and put in a pair of 6s if they will fit, and get some good AH.

The inverter wiring to the 27 up front might be too far to reach the OEM battery box with the other loads. I have "tapped" into a single 12v in a parallel set with the main loads on another of the 12s and it all worked. "They" say put all the load wires on the same battery posts but I am not sure why that is necessary. So you could leave the inverter on the pair of 6s IMO (others can comment on that if it is a bad thing-if they say why it is bad--)

StirCrazy

Kamloops, BC, Canada

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Posted: 01/14/21 05:29pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BFL13 wrote:



Some gen time advantage with SiO2 over regular AGMs is between 80-90 % where they stay constant amps before tapering around 90%, and that you can start the high rate constant amps from 20% instead of 50% (LFP can do that too) so no wasted gen time while amps taper if doing a "20-90"



except with the LFP batteries you can do that from empty to full and a lot higher current than SiO2 even. the curent charging restriction is why I am not concidering them, well and the price. I think that even with normal GC batteries if you have a big or multiple charge sources you can charge faster than SiO2, with a 25amp limitied charger that is all you can dump into it then of course it will charge faster than my LA, but if I am dumping 75 amp into my GC then I think Ill win the race. for me this is why the Li are more attractive. I can dump 150 amps into them from empty to full if you have that kind of charging. so realisticly say you have 75 am converter and a 30 amp solar set up you could fill a 280ah li back from empty in under around 2.5 hours. or for the people with gennys using for the 2 hour allowed time they could totaly fill there bank in that alotted time and not use the evening genny time. to me i think the capacity size and speed of refill are the teo morst important factors , well life also and Li blowes anything else out of the water for all three. even cost for Li is now the cheepest if you build it your self per/usable capacity.

Steve

Steve


2014 F350 6.7 Platinum
2016 Cougar 330RBK

BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 01/14/21 06:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Lots of calculations can be made. One thing to remember is that with a 5er you can carry lots of batteries and a big portable gen to run a big amp charger, so you can take advantage of Li charging amps.

(But then I would say since you can carry all those FLAs why spend all that $ on LFP? Seems silly to me.)

With a TC, the first limit is the size of generator you can take along, if any. That can reduce the size of charging amps and whether an Li is "worth it"

And with the TC, you could have a battery space limit so LFP and SiO2 get you more AH in that small space. And then if it is a small TT so weight matters, then LFP beats SiO2, but if it is cold temps, then SiO2 beats LFP if you can carry the weight.

Each RVer has to use his brain and figure what would be best for him. Ignore the Elmer Gantry salesmen pushing the latest thing. [emoticon]

MrWizard

Traveling

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Posted: 01/15/21 03:04am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Putting all loads and all charging at one common point when batteries are physically banked together in the same spot, makes for accurate tracking of power out, and power in/charge, having loads on different connections/batteries split system, makes it harder to correctly monitor power used,
While voltage system wide will generally reach low point equilibrium, voltage is not the best way to judge SOC/capacity level AmpHrs used or available


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Connected using Verizon and AT&T
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