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1L243

Oregon

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Posted: 03/05/21 02:44pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Wiring!

I have a issue at my wiring and Shunt that is just confusing maybe you guys have some ideas.

I wired my Monitor shunt inside the battery box with the batteries. I connected the battery side of the shunt to the Negative side of Battery (4).

I connected the Trailer Frame Ground, Inverter, Solar Charge Controller and a 12 volt accessory to the Load side of the Shunt.

When everything is connected there is no problem.. BUT when I disconnect the grounds from the Load side of the shunt

With a test light connected to the frame of the trailer

In this order

I remove the charge controller ground.... Nothing

I remove the trailer frame ground....Nothing

I remove the inverter ground and I get a 12 volt short to ground. According to my test light the entire shunt becomes energized. I'm also able to get a circuit with my test light connected to the frame and touching negative battery terminals.

At this time only the battery side of the shunt is connected.

Also I have tried

Cutting circuit breaker power from battery to trailer
Cutting circuit breaker from charge controller to battery
Cutting off power switch from solar panels
Removing fuse from Inverter

And it still occurs.

Put all back together and no short?????

Any thoughts?


2017 Coleman 300tq by Dutchman Toy Hauler. 34.5 feet long and under 10k Gross. 500 watt Solar 2000 watt Inverter, 1999 Ford F250 2WD 7.3 4R100 DP Tuner, S&B Cold Air Intake, Gauges, 6.0 Trans Cooler, Air Bags.


BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 03/05/21 03:07pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You got to removing the inverter's neg from the shunt and then said nothing was now there, but did not list the 12v accessory.

Is the inverter's chassis ground connected to the frame?

Is the shore power plugged in? Where is the converter's neg?


1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
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1L243

Oregon

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Posted: 03/05/21 04:50pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BFL13 wrote:

You got to removing the inverter's neg from the shunt and then said nothing was now there, but did not list the 12v accessory.

Is the inverter's chassis ground connected to the frame?

Is the shore power plugged in? Where is the converter's neg?


I remove the first load from the shunt which is the charge controller and no short. I remove the next load which is the Negative battery to frame, no short. I remove the Negative load to the Inverter and the short appears. I remove the 12v accessory and the short is still present. At this point there is nothing on the load side of the shunt but the shunt is energized.

I also removed the fuse between the shunt and the battery

The Trailer is NOT plugged into 110ac.

The Converter ground is bolted to the Trailer frame.

BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 03/05/21 05:38pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The shunt is energized but has nothing on the load side, and on the battery side the fuse was removed so it is not connected to the battery neg. Is there a fuse holder still there?

So the only wires on the shunt are the amps measuring wires on either side of the shunt? and the monitor has positive 12v?

It is unusual that there would be a fuse between the shunt's battery end and the battery neg post.

I have not figured this out--just collecting info now. ISTR you had a similar problem way back with the battery switch on the neg side, now gone? Is something connecting via the metal battery box?

1L243

Oregon

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Posted: 03/05/21 06:18pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BFL13 wrote:

The shunt is energized but has nothing on the load side, and on the battery side the fuse was removed so it is not connected to the battery neg. Is there a fuse holder still there?

So the only wires on the shunt are the amps measuring wires on either side of the shunt? and the monitor has positive 12v?

It is unusual that there would be a fuse between the shunt's battery end and the battery neg post.

I have not figured this out--just collecting info now. ISTR you had a similar problem way back with the battery switch on the neg side, now gone? Is something connecting via the metal battery box?


The battery side of the shunt is connected to the negative terminal of battery 4. The shunt is powered by a low amp fuse to the positive side of battery 4. That is the fuse I removed.

Wires going into battery box are shielded and not touching anything metal.

I am thinking this is the same problem that came up before that I thought was fixed. After removing the disconnect switch and connecting the loads to the shunt their was no short. Therefor, I thought that removing the disconnect switch had fixed it.

I am perplexed why the short goes away when all load wires are connected to the load side of shunt?

BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 03/05/21 06:59pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Might be something to do with how the highest voltage path takes the amps?
You took away that path and now the lower one is "live"? Not a clue.

On my Trimetric shunt there is no positive at all. The display is powered by a positive wire and its negs across the shunt come up from the shunt to the display.

1L243

Oregon

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Posted: 03/05/21 08:25pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BFL13 wrote:

Might be something to do with how the highest voltage path takes the amps?
You took away that path and now the lower one is "live"? Not a clue.

On my Trimetric shunt there is no positive at all. The display is powered by a positive wire and its negs across the shunt come up from the shunt to the display.


Shunt wiring diagram
[image]

The Shunt

[image]
My shunt as wired
[image]

BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 03/05/21 08:36pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

At least it all works right when everything is connected.
(So leave it connected? [emoticon] ) Some things we are just not meant to know!

1L243

Oregon

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Posted: 03/05/21 08:45pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BFL13 wrote:

At least it all works right when everything is connected.
(So leave it connected? [emoticon] ) Some things we are just not meant to know!


Yes, the same thought came to my mind..

Thanks

1L243

Oregon

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Posted: 03/20/21 01:38pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Back to my Shunt. I have just ran out of room on the load side of the Shunt. I don't have enough room to add a Neg Busbar inside my battery box and it's too late to reroute and put it in the storage compartment.

I would like to add longer stainless bolts on the Shunt. Stainless because I can't find brass bolts that big anywhere. The bolts that came with the Shunt are 3/8 x 1 1/2" I think I can get by with
3/8 x 2". Can I do this without changing the values of the Shunt?

[image]

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