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BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 02/22/21 05:25pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Somebody else might have a better answer, but nobody is replying, so IMO you are on the right track, but don't need any switch on the inverter's input DC. (what for?)

Switches do "leak" a tiny bit, so don't be amazed if you still have a "parasitic" draw in long term storage. Better to take the shunt's neg wire off the neg battery post for a certain disconnect of everything in long term storage.


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1L243

Oregon

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Posted: 02/22/21 07:33pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thank you

I think everyone is tired of this thread. Heck I have only been doing this project off and on for about 3 weeks now. BUT TODAY I FINISHED and all worked as it should.

BUT

I have not plugged into the Renogy 2000 watt inverter yet. I want to make sure THAT ALL I HAVE TO DO is turn off the main breaker to the Converter before plugging the shore power into the Inverter?

I want all the 110 outlets to be powered by the inverter plus I still need the Converter to power the 12 volt system of the trailer.

I will also unplug the refrigerator so it will work on Propane and turn off the breaker for the AC.


2017 Coleman 300tq by Dutchman Toy Hauler. 34.5 feet long and under 10k Gross. 1999 Ford F250 2WD 7.3 4R100 DP Tuner, S&B Cold Air Intake, Gauges, 6.0 Trans Cooler, Air Bags.


BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 02/22/21 07:47pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

"I want all the 110 outlets to be powered by the inverter plus I still need the Converter to power the 12 volt system of the trailer."

Lost me there! 120v is from the inverter with converter off (also fridge, A/C , and water heater --WH not mentioned?)

Off-grid you get the 12v from the battery bank to run everything 12v INCLUDING the inverter (another 12v item)

Maybe I got mixed up?

1L243

Oregon

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Posted: 02/22/21 08:16pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Believe me your not the one confused.

My water heater is propane only. I will have to unplug my Fridge to force it to propane use. Plus I would turn off the breaker to the AC so there is no accidental use.

So, will turning off the main breaker of the Converter allow me to plug the trailer shore power into the Inverter without any conflicting issues.

I read a couple of DIY Solar installs and this was one of the options for running off grid when plugged into the Inverter?

BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 02/22/21 08:28pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It will all work as long as the 120v outlets are not on the same breaker as the converter's. Best not to say "main converter breaker" so not to confuse with "main breaker".

If you turn off the converter's breaker and the outlets don't work, there is a fix for that. Try it and see before we have to go there. [emoticon]

1L243

Oregon

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Posted: 02/22/21 08:59pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Your right I was confusing the Main Breaker with the Breaker to the Converter.
If I turn off the Breaker to the Converter it does stop the batteries from charging. The 110 outlets continue to work.

BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 02/22/21 09:25pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The big test is now to run the microwave and see how much voltage drop you get. On the monitor, set it to read voltage and see what it is, then turn on the MW and note the lower voltage. Say it drops 0.8 volts (could be more, whatever) Now it will slowly drop from there as the MW runs for a few minutes.

This tells you how low the batts can get before you can't run the MW, or the toaster for breakfast. If it drops 0.8 and gets down another 0.2 and the inverter quits at 11 volts, then as long as voltage is above 12.0 you can do it. (but recharge the batts later that morning!)

1L243

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Posted: 02/23/21 03:28pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Microwave test was a bust. I think it took about 20 seconds before the voltage on the meter dropped to -12 volts and the microwave shut off.

Electric drip coffee pot was also a failure ran about 25 seconds and battery level continued to drop. I cut it off at 12.2 volts.

On the positive side all my outlets are energized. I turned on a 40 inch tv and two 24 inch TVs at the same time (maybe two tv's at one time would be max)and was able to maintain + 3.5 amps even though it was overcast out. I do have a Tailgator Portable satellite dish that draws 24 watts. I don't think that will be a problem.

I was also able to run a small house fan and stay in the +2.5 amps

I'm looking for better results on a true sunny day. Tilting my panels would be more work than it would be worth to me.

I also want to hydrometer test on my batteries

BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 02/23/21 03:42pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I expect the hydrometer will tell you why there is such a big voltage drop running high amp appliances. Since you wiring is good, that leaves the batts.

pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 02/23/21 04:57pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

1L243,

How thick is the wire from the inverter to the battery bank? How long is the cable run? How long since the batter bank was equalized? Were they fully charged before the microwave test? Is the battery bank wired in a balanced manner?


Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp hours of AGM in two battery banks 12 volt batteries, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

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