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 > Basic Question About AC Power Wiring

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HadEnough

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Posted: 01/24/21 04:59am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

wa8yxm wrote:

You may have a problem with the A/C. Go topside (up on the roof) and if it's a Coleman (they suck, a good thing) take a good look at the condenser. Is it "Crudded up"? (Yes Remove the outer cover and peal the crud off) 4 screws on top.

most other models. (They blow, more efficient but read one)
Remove the outer cover (Generally around 10 or more screws along the bottom of the cowel) (See note) then remove the inner cover over the condenser (may be a few screws or a major job involving cuttng metal tape and bending tabs) and inspect if needed clean. and re-assemble

NOTE: you may be able to inspect using a mirror without removing the inner cover over the condenser.

Why: If the condender is "Crudded up" it can not shed heat as fast as it is deisgned to, as the heat builds in the A/C's system the pressures rise. the compressor has to work harder and harder, Draws more and more current and ..> Well. Bad things happen. On my 50 amp rig the click of darkness (Tripped breaker) perhaps you are just overloading the generator.


How would that be possible when the behavior happens with the air conditioner OFF???

AGAIN, IT’S AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM

cavie

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Posted: 01/24/21 05:04am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

enblethen wrote:

I am guessing you have the truck camper with 30 amp shore power and no genset.
I would start by checking the connections in the 120 volt AC power distribution panel.
Pay close attention to the neutrals (white wires) in the back of the panel. I would suggest getting some electrical de-ox grease. Disconnect each wire, one at a time, check for brittle or melted insulation. If there is enough slack cut this portion off. Apply a good coat of de-ox grease, and re-terminate.
Check connections on the circuit breakers in the same manner.
Check the shore power connection in the small junction box. Make sure those are clean and tight. Coat connections in de-ox grease. Your cord may go straight to the 120 volt AC panel.
Careful about using the AC and microwave at the same time.
Check the cord body on the shore power cord for any signs of melting or black blades.


OP stated that he has a transfer switch so not likely a truck camper


2011 Keystone Sprinter 323BHS. Retired Master Electrician. Retired Building Inspector.

All Motor Homes are RV's. All RV's are not Motor Homes.

HadEnough

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Posted: 01/24/21 05:04am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Just remembered one other thing.

It did the brownout type behavior with the microwave actually running once too.

Mid microwaving of a baked potato, the microwave bulb dimmed, the fan and magnetron slowed down and I quickly jumped to stop it for fear of damage.

HadEnough

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Posted: 01/24/21 05:05am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

cavie wrote:

enblethen wrote:

I am guessing you have the truck camper with 30 amp shore power and no genset.
I would start by checking the connections in the 120 volt AC power distribution panel.
Pay close attention to the neutrals (white wires) in the back of the panel. I would suggest getting some electrical de-ox grease. Disconnect each wire, one at a time, check for brittle or melted insulation. If there is enough slack cut this portion off. Apply a good coat of de-ox grease, and re-terminate.
Check connections on the circuit breakers in the same manner.
Check the shore power connection in the small junction box. Make sure those are clean and tight. Coat connections in de-ox grease. Your cord may go straight to the 120 volt AC panel.
Careful about using the AC and microwave at the same time.
Check the cord body on the shore power cord for any signs of melting or black blades.


OP stated that he has a transfer switch so not likely a truck camper


Actually. It is a truck camper, but that’s not relevant to the discussion of an electrical system so I didn’t bother with it.

cavie

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Posted: 01/24/21 05:13am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Sounds like a transfer switch problem. Open the TS and check with a voltmeter while you are having the problem. Get to the wire connections. Also check all connections in the 120-volt breaker box.

enblethen

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Posted: 01/24/21 06:44am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Sounds like a bad connection.
That is why it is necessary to check the connections through out the system.


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Posted: 01/24/21 07:48am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Could it be the generator is not providing sufficient power? I believe most RV AC's require around 16 amps (1920 watts or so)

A simple test would be to directly plug into 120v service and see if the problem persists.

HadEnough

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Posted: 01/24/21 08:18am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

SPRey wrote:

Could it be the generator is not providing sufficient power? I believe most RV AC's require around 16 amps (1920 watts or so)

A simple test would be to directly plug into 120v service and see if the problem persists.


Not that. Because both generators do the same thing pretty much. The only difference is the onboard generator is smart enough to turn off when there is an issue. The one connected to the shore power just keeps going and the cycling happens.

I was thinking about doing this. Plugging it directly into the 120 V and bypassing the transfer switch as a test.

enblethen

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Posted: 01/24/21 08:40am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Problem happens using on board or portable gensets, indicates to me that issue is between transfer switch output and the 120 volt AC distribution panel.
I would say the neutral!

3 tons

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Posted: 01/24/21 09:05am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

For reference, the ATS has 3 sets of contacts as follows:

1) Shore power in
2) Generator in
3) power out to main panel

FWIW, There may be a small DIN switch on the ATS’s logic board used to defeat the genny warm-up delay...

Since the microwave is intermittent, I would initially confine my search to the incoming power supply.

3 tons

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