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Open Roads Forum  >  Class C Motorhomes  >  Class C

 > Check Engine Light...Going on 5 years & 20,000 miles...

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Beaker

Brevard, NC

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Joined: 07/28/2003

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Posted: 01/27/21 10:00pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Quote:

I thought the OP has a code tester , he has been erasing the codes, its a recurring problem with that 2195 code.


Recent experience with Dodge dealer.

1999 dakota cel with code showing 02 sensor.
Sensor replaced, code still showing.
Dealer said pcm.
Changed pcm, code still showing.
Dealer said bad pcm. Was replaced. Code still showing, said bad pcm.
Pcm(remanufactured) replaced. Code still showing.
After spending $500 at dealer they would not pursue anymore.
Indepedent shop at $50/hour. Gave them 2 hours at no risk.
They found broken wire.

I won't talk about the A/C the dealer couldn't fix for 2 years.
Independent dealer fixed in 20 minutes for $20 dollars.

Not saying this is your problem.
Just saying that mechanics are trained to follow a,b,c and cannot find problems that do not follow the "rule".

Forgot to say dodge dealer mechanic was "certified master mechanic"


2008 Silverado 2500HD Duramax
2010 Cruiser 26RK

bobndot

USA

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Posted: 01/28/21 10:17am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Beaker wrote:

Quote:

I thought the OP has a code tester , he has been erasing the codes, its a recurring problem with that 2195 code.


Recent experience with Dodge dealer.

1999 dakota cel with code showing 02 sensor.
Sensor replaced, code still showing.
Dealer said pcm.
Changed pcm, code still showing.
Dealer said bad pcm. Was replaced. Code still showing, said bad pcm.
Pcm(remanufactured) replaced. Code still showing.
After spending $500 at dealer they would not pursue anymore.
Indepedent shop at $50/hour. Gave them 2 hours at no risk.
They found broken wire.


I won't talk about the A/C the dealer couldn't fix for 2 years.
Independent dealer fixed in 20 minutes for $20 dollars.

Not saying this is your problem.
Just saying that mechanics are trained to follow a,b,c and cannot find problems that do not follow the "rule".

Forgot to say dodge dealer mechanic was "certified master mechanic"


Hey, its your fault. I'll bet that you failed to give that certified mechanic the light test. Shine a flashlight in one ear, if you see shining thru the other side, don't leave the vehicle there. [emoticon]

CharlesinGA

South of Atlanta, Georgia

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Posted: 02/01/21 03:38pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Take that K&N filter and throw it away!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Use mineral spirits or similar and wipe all of the oil residue out of the airbox and tubes going to the engine. If necessary remove them, wash them out with Dawn degt, and dry them out and reassemble the whole mess, Use the MAF cleaner to clean the sensor.

Sorry if this has been mentioned before, I quit reading on page 2 after I saw K&N mentioned. The DO NOT clean the air better than a normal filter, they just allow for a greater flow of air, which means more stuff has to be getting thru that is bad for the engine. Some will argue this, but That is ONE place you need to start. Then work on the rough idle issue.

Charles


'03 Ram 2500 CTD, 5.9HO six speed std cab long bed Leer top and 2008 Bigfoot 25B21RB.. previously 2008 Thor/Dutchman Freedom Spirit 180. SOLD - 2007 Winnebago View 23H Motorhome.

theoldwizard1

SE MI

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Posted: 02/01/21 03:40pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

T-Rex wrote:

When I bought this 2007 RV in 2015, it was 8 years old, but had only 9,000 miles on it. With so few miles at the time, my guess is that the prior owner never cleaned the K&N filter, and therefore, over-oiling of the filter isn't causing MAF sensor problems.

This is the big problem with K&N filter ! The say they last 10 years. That is for the filter itself.

They should be cleaned and re-oiled about every 5,000-10,000 miles or once a year. More often in dusty conditions.

danojeno

Corona, CA

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Posted: 02/02/21 02:24pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I had a somewhat similar experience, although on the Chevy side. It sometimes took a bit to start and was rough on idle until I goosed it a little. It ended up being the fuel pump. After it sat for a bit, the fuel pressure dropped and it took a while to get it up again. It ran great after the the initial start up and goose. It would even start right back up fine. Not that you want to just go throwing parts at it, but that's what mine was. Also, K&N are actual garbage. I learned this running quads in the dunes. Use a stock paper filter.


2006 Chevy 2500HD 8.1 4x4 CCSB (sold)
2012 Eclipse Stellar 28SBG, Spring Over Axle (Sold)


T-Rex

Carlsbad, CA

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Posted: 02/19/21 10:07pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

In case anyone is wondering, I cleaned the MAF sensor and replaced the K&N Air Filter. Then I went on a camping trip and put on about 200 miles. My check engine light did not come on at all. I'm hopeful the 5-year long intermittent CEL issue is resolved, but I'll feel more sure about this after a few additional trips as it was intermittent previously.


2008 Winnebago Voyage 32H

Chum lee

Albuquerque, NM

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Posted: 02/22/21 01:34pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

"The K&N filter might have something to do with your issues. From what I understand, even slightly over-oiling the filter can lead to a fouled MAF sensor, which sounds like it may be one of the things contributing to your CEL codes."

"When I bought this 2007 RV in 2015, it was 8 years old, but had only 9,000 miles on it. With so few miles at the time, my guess is that the prior owner never cleaned the K&N filter, and therefore, over-oiling of the filter isn't causing MAF sensor problems. Nevertheless, I will be cleaning the MAF sensor in case it's gotten dirty for any reason."

The following is strictly MY opinion from years of direct experience. (with K & N air filters)

Whenever I see a K & N air filter, I do the following:

1. Remove the K & N air filter and all related components.

2. Hold the filter above the appropriate sized waste receptacle.

3. Open your hand.

4. If the filter falls into the waste receptacle, go to step 6.

5. If the filter fails to fall into the waste receptacle, repeat steps 2 and 3 until it does, then go to step 6.

6. Replace the K & N filter with a new OEM pleated paper element.

If the OEM airbox and other intake components have previously been removed/modified, you will need to replace them. Look for a vacuum leak in the intake system. When the engine is running rough (cold) spray propane (unlit from a torch) around all the vacuum hoses and connections on the engine. When the engine smooths out, you found the leak. Or, it's sufficiently warm to run smoothly. In that case you'll need to start again later, . . . . when the engine is cold.

Chum lee

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