RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Truck Campers: Bigfoot (old vs new)

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Truck Campers

Open Roads Forum  >  Truck Campers

 > Bigfoot (old vs new)

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 5  
Prev  |  Next
Sponsored By:
Durb

NW

Senior Member

Joined: 01/15/2016

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member


Posted: 02/03/21 08:06pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

This is pure speculation on my part. I owned a 2004 Bigfoot trailer. The build sheet showed the trailer weight to be 500+ pounds more than the brochure weight. Everything was considered an option including the entrance step, double pane windows and on an on. They listed the weight of each item, even added 1.2 pounds for a bedspread. Could be they changed their marketing and added everything into the brochure weight and reducing the number of options. Can't see them skimping on the fiberglass shell. Excellent product.

HMS Beagle

Napa, California

Senior Member

Joined: 08/22/2003

View Profile



Posted: 02/03/21 11:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

On weights, my 1988 5th wheel and 1996 camper were both well over the placard weight. The 2008 camper is over but not by as much. You can account for some of the difference in optional equipment, but I think they have gotten more honest with time, though still not honest.

If you order a new one instruct them not to put ANY holes in the roof. They build a pretty nice waterproof shell and then punch holes in it like a sieve. Some are required by regulation but many are not. I did that on the 1996 (which I ordered from the factory) and it had maybe 1/2 or 1/3 of the holes in the roof compared to the 2008 which I did not order. They could build it with none if they tried a little harder.

Adamis summarizes many of the areas of concern. I had the same issue with the propane compartment and did just what Tx did - repaired the lip across the bottom. Again I think that is regulation, propane is supposed to drain, but honestly the amount of propane trapped by that lip wouldn't even wake you if it went off. I've found the pourable sealant they use to be horrid, it just cracks away in short order. Fortunately the newer ones are sealed with butyl under the flanges, unfortunately they didn't do the best job sometimes. The only thing I haven't removed and resealed properly on the latest one is the bath vent.

Like Adamis, I still consider Bigfoot to be at the pinnacle of quality in a production RV - but the valleys in that industry as so very low, the pinnacles don't have to be high to stand out.


Bigfoot 10.4E, 2015 F350 6.7L DRW 2WD, Autoflex Ultra Air Ride rear suspension, Hellwig Bigwig sway bars front and rear

AH_AK

AK

New Member

Joined: 02/01/2021

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 02/04/21 01:19am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

adamis wrote:

AH_AK wrote:

If you decide to sell it, I would be interested. I would need to figure out how to get it from TX to AK though. Hopefully Canada starts allowing through traffic soon.


I am no expert but I think if it was what you really wanted you could arrange for a specialized carrier to pick it up and drop it off to you. Border might be closed for pleasure but it is still open for commerce.


I am sure that you are right. I would be interested in any recommendations people have for logistics/shipping operations that regularly move campers. My thought was to get it to Tacoma and then barge it up to AK. I am familiar with the players in the SEA to ANC barge route. For the right camper/price though, I could make it happen.

AH_AK

AK

New Member

Joined: 02/01/2021

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 02/04/21 01:28am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

hedgehopper wrote:

Don't want to hijack your thread. But I am wondering how much of this applies or doesn't apply to the Northern Lite. I thought you might want to consider a NL as an alternative. We started out wanting a Bigfoot but wound up with a NL.


I would consider a NL as well. I have heard mixed reviews, but a lot of it boils down to preference. Personally, I think they are nice campers. They are considerably lighter than the Bigfoots, but it is tough to know if that weight savings comes at the expense of durability. The dealer up here has a 9.6SE coming in the spring, but it is $56k USD as equipped. That is steep. I am looking to boondock and really don't need a lot of creature comforts (plus they just add weight). Ideally, I'd like to get a used camper that has depreciated ~30-50% of its value. Seems like maintenance is the key. If you find someone that really kept up on everything an OLD NL or Bigfoot would be great.

AH_AK

AK

New Member

Joined: 02/01/2021

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 02/04/21 01:32am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Reisender wrote:

You might want to phone Grant at the factory. I think they actually changed how they weigh them in regards to what is included in the weight on the sticker. I am not sure though so you might want to call grant.

I am about 20 km from the factory. Have been their many times. [emoticon]. Cool place.


Good idea. From what I gather he is a pretty transparent and helpful guy. Unfortunately for me, I am on the northern border which is considerably further from the factory. You interested in getting paid to drive a camper to the AK-CAN border?

AH_AK

AK

New Member

Joined: 02/01/2021

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 02/04/21 01:39am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Durb wrote:

This is pure speculation on my part. I owned a 2004 Bigfoot trailer. The build sheet showed the trailer weight to be 500+ pounds more than the brochure weight. Everything was considered an option including the entrance step, double pane windows and on an on. They listed the weight of each item, even added 1.2 pounds for a bedspread. Could be they changed their marketing and added everything into the brochure weight and reducing the number of options. Can't see them skimping on the fiberglass shell. Excellent product.


This makes sense. You'd think they'd have a weight worksheet that people could just play around with to get the actual weight. Even so, I have seen ads for older 10.4 ft models that had a factory weight (on the placard) that was pretty low. I also saw the list of options with weights, but it wasn't clear to me why they would include those if the placard weight was as-equipped. Perhaps they weighed it before the options and put that on the placard. That would seem pretty deceptive though. Newer ones do seem to be pretty honest. Low dry weight in the literature is another thing. I think your explanation for that disparity (everything is an option) makes sense.

AH_AK

AK

New Member

Joined: 02/01/2021

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 02/04/21 01:54am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

HMS Beagle wrote:

On weights, my 1988 5th wheel and 1996 camper were both well over the placard weight. The 2008 camper is over but not by as much. You can account for some of the difference in optional equipment, but I think they have gotten more honest with time, though still not honest.

If you order a new one instruct them not to put ANY holes in the roof. They build a pretty nice waterproof shell and then punch holes in it like a sieve. Some are required by regulation but many are not. I did that on the 1996 (which I ordered from the factory) and it had maybe 1/2 or 1/3 of the holes in the roof compared to the 2008 which I did not order. They could build it with none if they tried a little harder.

Adamis summarizes many of the areas of concern. I had the same issue with the propane compartment and did just what Tx did - repaired the lip across the bottom. Again I think that is regulation, propane is supposed to drain, but honestly the amount of propane trapped by that lip wouldn't even wake you if it went off. I've found the pourable sealant they use to be horrid, it just cracks away in short order. Fortunately the newer ones are sealed with butyl under the flanges, unfortunately they didn't do the best job sometimes. The only thing I haven't removed and resealed properly on the latest one is the bath vent.

Like Adamis, I still consider Bigfoot to be at the pinnacle of quality in a production RV - but the valleys in that industry as so very low, the pinnacles don't have to be high to stand out.


I think you are right that the propane compartment lip (or lack of) is a safety requirement. You could always add a cheap battery powered LP detector if you were really nervous. Like you said though, I doubt that small of a quantity would pose a significant threat.

How tough is it to leak test these campers? I keep seeing products that pressurize the interior and then you put soapy water on the outside. Not sure how reliable this technique is, but it seems like finding and repairing leaks beats tracing leaks after you have found the water/rot. I have to admit, if I paid upwards of $40k for a new one, I'd be pretty annoyed about having to redo shoddy seal work.

I am curious about the finish of the cutouts. You'd think they'd glass the cross section and use threaded inserts for the fasteners. I am just thinking about what I do for the mounting holes of my skis to prevent water from getting into the core. I either glue in the screws if it is meant to be permanent, or, use threaded inserts that are glued in if non permanent. Sounds to me like all the through-hull attachments/ flanges are just screwed into the hull (hopefully into wood frame too for reinforcement). It'd sure be a pain to upgrade everything, but better to do it all at once than piecemeal as it fails IMO.

Reisender

NA

Senior Member

Joined: 12/09/2018

View Profile


Online
Posted: 02/04/21 06:46am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

AH_AK wrote:

Reisender wrote:

You might want to phone Grant at the factory. I think they actually changed how they weigh them in regards to what is included in the weight on the sticker. I am not sure though so you might want to call grant.

I am about 20 km from the factory. Have been their many times. [emoticon]. Cool place.


Good idea. From what I gather he is a pretty transparent and helpful guy. Unfortunately for me, I am on the northern border which is considerably further from the factory. You interested in getting paid to drive a camper to the AK-CAN border?


Heh heh. No but the company they use for shipping them is about 10 blocks away from me. If you want I can dig up their name and number. It’s an RV logistics company. They do one thing. Move RV‘’S around. [emoticon]. I don’t think they would have a problem taking one to Alaska for you. It’s a lot closer than Louisiana and I know they have shipped there before.

adamis

Northern California

Senior Member

Joined: 06/09/2016

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 02/04/21 12:39pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Figured I could post some pictures of my repair adventures. It will give others the chance to see some of the issues I encountered. One of the last things I did (and not pictured here) is I added a strip of foam along the bottom of the metal door hatch frame where Bigfoot cuts the frame presumably so propane can vent out. The foam creates just enough of a barrier that water dripping down the side cannot roll back into the compartment and leak down the inside corners. It is a temporary fix as the adhesive on the foam isn't as strong as I would like it to be so I will be exploring other solutions or redoing it each year.

One last note... Not sure how other's compartments are but getting the propane bottles in and out is a pain in the tail! The brackets that hold the straps located on the sides of the compartment are just about a 1/4" to hide making it difficult to pull the tanks in and out without some force. Another solution for this is on my to do list...


[image]

[image]

[image]

[image]

[image]

[image]

[image]


1999 F350 Dually with 7.3 Diesel
2000 Bigfoot 10.6 Camper


TxGearhead

Texas

Senior Member

Joined: 04/17/2016

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 02/05/21 04:57am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I agree with HMS Beagle. They build the best camper but there are issues. If I was ordering a new one I would delete the living area skylight and the cargo rail for sure. Maybe both awnings as well, I never use them. My A/C is right up against the skylight. Speaking of the A/C...what were they thinking when they put a 13,500 BTU unit on these highly insulated small campers? It requires more generator to run and cycles too frequently.


2018 Ram 3500 CC LB DRW 4X4 Cummins Aisin Laramie Pearl White
2018 Landmark Oshkosh
2008 Bigfoot 25C9.4
2014 NauticStar 21 ShallowBay 150HP Yamaha
2016 GoDevil 18X44 35HP Surface Drive

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 5  
Prev  |  Next

Open Roads Forum  >  Truck Campers

 > Bigfoot (old vs new)
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Truck Campers


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:




© 2021 CWI, Inc. © 2021 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.