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Open Roads Forum  >  Tow Vehicles

 > Towing Capacity Question

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RoyJ

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Posted: 02/16/21 09:06pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

kbucky wrote:

Please forgive as I am a complete newbie to all of this. I have a 2018 Dodge Durango SRT with a towing capacity of 8700 lbs. We are looking at a camper that is 5,900 lbs dry weight.

Obviously that falls within the 8,700 but I know there is a lot more involved than just that. My max weight for passengers and cargo is 1,200 lbs.

Assuming my family takes up 500 lbs of that and the hitch weight of the camper is 682 lbs I am pushing the top end correct? (Did I calculate that correctly?)

Looking for opinions from seasoned campers if this setup looks ok or am I over doing the capabilities of my Durango? Of course the sales guy says I will be fine but I take what he says with a grain of salt!


Personally I think you're safe. What makes a good tow truck:

- stiff suspension. SRT, check
- over-built braking system, check
- stiff tire sidewall, check
- strong powertrain, check

Pump up your tires to near max psi if it feels better. I know, load tables... Look, on the race track all factory psi / load tables are thrown out.

Throw the spare tire into the trailer if you're down to the last few lbs of payload.

Look at it this way, my 1500 Ram tows 10k lbs. The SRT is stronger and more stable than the soft sprung Ram in every single way.

Huntindog

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Posted: 02/17/21 03:22am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

kbucky wrote:

That is the weight listed in the SRT owners manual
Welcome to the world of options.
For very pound of options, the payload is reduced by a pound.
What is in the manual is for a base truck.
What is on the sticker is for your truck as optioned.



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wowens79

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Posted: 02/17/21 04:34am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

RoyJ wrote:

kbucky wrote:

Please forgive as I am a complete newbie to all of this. I have a 2018 Dodge Durango SRT with a towing capacity of 8700 lbs. We are looking at a camper that is 5,900 lbs dry weight.

Obviously that falls within the 8,700 but I know there is a lot more involved than just that. My max weight for passengers and cargo is 1,200 lbs.

Assuming my family takes up 500 lbs of that and the hitch weight of the camper is 682 lbs I am pushing the top end correct? (Did I calculate that correctly?)

Looking for opinions from seasoned campers if this setup looks ok or am I over doing the capabilities of my Durango? Of course the sales guy says I will be fine but I take what he says with a grain of salt!


Personally I think you're safe. What makes a good tow truck:



- stiff suspension. SRT, check
- over-built braking system, check
- stiff tire sidewall, check
- strong powertrain, check

Pump up your tires to near max psi if it feels better. I know, load tables... Look, on the race track all factory psi / load tables are thrown out.

Throw the spare tire into the trailer if you're down to the last few lbs of payload.

Look at it this way, my 1500 Ram tows 10k lbs. The SRT is stronger and more stable than the soft sprung Ram in every single way.


The wheelbase of the 1500 is longer and wider that really helps with stability.


2002 Chevy Silverado 1500HD 6.0l 241k miles and climbing
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Boomerweps

Hills of PA

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Posted: 02/17/21 05:09am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

naturist wrote:

It seems very few run up against max tow weight before running out of payload. You are not alone there. BTW, don’t forget to add the weight of a full tank of fuel to the weight of passengers, etc. At 7.2-7.4 lbs per gallon, a 20 gallon tank is going to add around 150 lbs to the mix.

Please refer to your manufacture’s towing guide. ALL include a FULL tank of gasoline in towing capacity and load capacity values.


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2019 F150 4x4 SCrew SB STX 5.0 3.55 factory tow package, 7000#GVWR, 1990 CC Tow mirrors, TBC


JRscooby

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Posted: 02/17/21 05:31am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Somebody mentioned options; I know we are not talking about vehicles in this class, but the point still stands.
The last year they where available a friend bought 2 LTL9000 Fords. Ordered the same axles, drivetrain and beds. Only difference, other than color was his driver wanted the extra padding, carpet, and seat covers so 1 had XL trim, and the other was XLT. I was in the scalehouse the first morning they brought the trucks to work. The fancy interior added over 1000 lbs of MT weight The cab of a 9000 is not much, if any, bigger than regular cab F150. If you want max payload/tow capacity you need base level interior.

valhalla360

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Posted: 02/17/21 05:48am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If you question the curb weight, stop by a CAT scale but the sticker on the door is more likely to be the correct payload.

Once you load that trailer up for travel and get up to 12-15% tongue weight, you will be north of 1000lb hitch weight and the truck will be over the payload limit.

I would be looking at trailers in the 5000lb GVWR size as better suited to the truck you have.


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pitch

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Posted: 02/17/21 06:26am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You are going to be heavy,not that it is necessarily going to be a problem. Depends on what you are planning,
I would not have a problem hauling 80 a hundred mile to a park. I would not take off for a cross-country mega trip.

Yeah OK, disaster can happen on the street in front of your house,but hanging close loweres the odds.

Kavoom

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Posted: 02/17/21 06:44am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

kbucky wrote:

Please forgive as I am a complete newbie to all of this. I have a 2018 Dodge Durango SRT with a towing capacity of 8700 lbs. We are looking at a camper that is 5,900 lbs dry weight.

Obviously that falls within the 8,700 but I know there is a lot more involved than just that. My max weight for passengers and cargo is 1,200 lbs.

Assuming my family takes up 500 lbs of that and the hitch weight of the camper is 682 lbs I am pushing the top end correct? (Did I calculate that correctly?)

Looking for opinions from seasoned campers if this setup looks ok or am I over doing the capabilities of my Durango? Of course the sales guy says I will be fine but I take what he says with a grain of salt!


All the details aside, you are really pushing it. If you are on the flat all the time, maybe... Avoid mountains like the plague. And, do you enjoy being stressed out for 6 tt 8 hours a day or do you want to occasionally forget its back there... These are your questions... Having experiences all of the above... I'll take the latter. In general, I like to run around 75% to 80% of whatever my ratings are... Pushing the envelope will push your tow vehicle...and your family is in there aren't they?

kbucky

Madison

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Posted: 02/17/21 06:48am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Huntindog wrote:

kbucky wrote:

That is the weight listed in the SRT owners manual
Welcome to the world of options.
For very pound of options, the payload is reduced by a pound.
What is in the manual is for a base truck.
What is on the sticker is for your truck as optioned.


The sticker does not list the weight. It only gives the standard 1,200 payload number which is shown no matter what options to you add or remove

MFL

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Posted: 02/17/21 07:02am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It is not likely that your actual payload is 1,200 lbs exactly. That seems a rounded off number. To do it right, you need to weigh your vehicle full of fuel, passengers, and gear. That total weight subtracted from your GVWR will ensure actual payload.

You should also get separate axle weights. It appears you have a 3,900 RAWR. Most of the tongue wt will be added to the rear axle. If your rear axle, ready to camp wt is 2,900, you can add up to 1K of hitch wt.

Your tires should handle a bit more than RAWR, but look at max tire rating, and also max inflation on sidewall. You will want to inflate tires to more than indicated on door sticker, the rears possibly to max pressure.

Jerry





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