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Open Roads Forum  >  Travel Trailers  >  General Q&A

 > Problems with 7 Pin Connector

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GrandpaKip

Flat Rock

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Posted: 02/21/21 09:11am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I had to replace the cord/plug assembly once when it popped out from the truck in route. Less than 30 minutes and the new cord was quite a bit longer than the original.


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BB_TX

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Posted: 02/21/21 09:26am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Had similar problem. I have two factory 7 pin connectors on the truck, bumper and in-bed. The 7 pin trailer cord worked fine plugged into the bumper connector, but was intermittent plugged into the in-bed connector. After messing with it a long time and never getting much better, I just replace the in-bed connector and no more problem.

opnspaces

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Posted: 02/21/21 10:40am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hey OP I had the same problem once and fought it for an entire season. Finally having had enough frustration I went with the plug/cord set like posted by Gdetrailer. I replace the plug a few years ago and have not had a problem since. If and when the plug gets loose I'll spend another 20 - 30 dollars and replace it all again.
Gdetrailer wrote:


For less than $30 you can buy not only the plug but the entire harness with the plug molded in to the harness with 8ft of wire..

[image]

FOUND HERE

That one looked interesting since it has double prong contacts in the plug rather than standard single prong contacts..



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Lakeland Bob

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Posted: 02/22/21 08:28pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Just a word of advise. I replaced the 7 pin cord on one of my trailers with one that was molded together. After making the change, along with adding a connection box for easier repairs in the future, the lights
wouldn't work.

Thought I had screwed something up and looked for hours for the problem, knowing it couldn't be the cord/plug assembly as it was factory fresh.

I finally put my multimeter to the plug and wire ends and discovered the the cord was wired totally wrong, with only the ground wire being correct.

So my suggestion would be that if you change the entire plug/cord assembly, check the continuity between the wires and their correct pins as indicated in a wiring diagram.

Oh, I went ahead and used the cord/plug I had, made a note on what wires went to the what prongs and put the note in the connection box for me for later reference.

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Posted: 02/23/21 01:23am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ha, I thought the same a few years ago grabbed one of those pre molded pigtails to fix a trialed at work real quick. Found out after the fact and cussing at it that there are 2 different 7 pin wiring color conventions


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JRscooby

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Posted: 02/23/21 04:37am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

About 10 years ago I had a recital/cranial inversion while moving trailer around in the lot, and mangled the plug. When I replaced it, hooked up tested all lights and brakes. Then I pulled the cap lose, buried all screws and connections in clear silicone, put a bunch in the cap, and put it back together. A lot was forced out around the cord. Wiped all the excess off. Keep the socket well lubed with di-lectric grease, no more problems. (also made a place that holds the end when not hooked up)

rhagfo

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Posted: 02/23/21 06:59am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Gdetrailer wrote:

You can try to clean them, scrub them, adjust the prongs but after a while weather and age takes a toll on the plugs..

For $6 and a little bit of your time you can just replace the plug and be done with the issue for quit some time..

[image]

FOUND HERE

For less than $30 you can buy not only the plug but the entire harness with the plug molded in to the harness with 8ft of wire..

[image]

FOUND HERE

That one looked interesting since it has double prong contacts in the plug rather than standard single prong contacts..


To the OP, you have 13 year in Minnesota on your connection is your TV is still the 2003 Explorer Limited 4X4 V8 Advancetrac 3.73 Axle. Spend a couple dollars and get new connections, buy the best you can find.


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Gdetrailer

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Posted: 02/23/21 10:34am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

JRscooby wrote:

About 10 years ago I had a recital/cranial inversion while moving trailer around in the lot, and mangled the plug. When I replaced it, hooked up tested all lights and brakes. Then I pulled the cap lose, buried all screws and connections in clear silicone, put a bunch in the cap, and put it back together. A lot was forced out around the cord. Wiped all the excess off. Keep the socket well lubed with di-lectric grease, no more problems. (also made a place that holds the end when not hooked up)


Standard "RTV" silicones use acedic acid as part of the curing process.

Generally not recommended for use with electrical connections.

May work for a while but may have enough acid to eventually damage the wire you were protecting.

They do make "neutral cure" RTV which is a bit electrical connection friendly and a better choice over all for this use.

JRscooby

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Posted: 02/23/21 11:06am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Gdetrailer wrote:

JRscooby wrote:

About 10 years ago I had a recital/cranial inversion while moving trailer around in the lot, and mangled the plug. When I replaced it, hooked up tested all lights and brakes. Then I pulled the cap lose, buried all screws and connections in clear silicone, put a bunch in the cap, and put it back together. A lot was forced out around the cord. Wiped all the excess off. Keep the socket well lubed with di-lectric grease, no more problems. (also made a place that holds the end when not hooked up)


Standard "RTV" silicones use acedic acid as part of the curing process.

Generally not recommended for use with electrical connections.

May work for a while but may have enough acid to eventually damage the wire you were protecting.

They do make "neutral cure" RTV which is a bit electrical connection friendly and a better choice over all for this use.


Going back decades, I have filled crimp connecters with cheap silicone form-a-gasket before putting wires in and crimping, to wire truck and trailer lights. 1 rebuilt wreck was towed about 100,000 miles a year for 18 years before I sold it. Replaced lamps, and the cord a few times, but the acid never hurt the wires. And the road salts and grime didn't either.

Gdetrailer

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Posted: 02/23/21 12:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

JRscooby wrote:

Gdetrailer wrote:

JRscooby wrote:

About 10 years ago I had a recital/cranial inversion while moving trailer around in the lot, and mangled the plug. When I replaced it, hooked up tested all lights and brakes. Then I pulled the cap lose, buried all screws and connections in clear silicone, put a bunch in the cap, and put it back together. A lot was forced out around the cord. Wiped all the excess off. Keep the socket well lubed with di-lectric grease, no more problems. (also made a place that holds the end when not hooked up)


Standard "RTV" silicones use acedic acid as part of the curing process.

Generally not recommended for use with electrical connections.

May work for a while but may have enough acid to eventually damage the wire you were protecting.

They do make "neutral cure" RTV which is a bit electrical connection friendly and a better choice over all for this use.


Going back decades, I have filled crimp connecters with cheap silicone form-a-gasket before putting wires in and crimping, to wire truck and trailer lights. 1 rebuilt wreck was towed about 100,000 miles a year for 18 years before I sold it. Replaced lamps, and the cord a few times, but the acid never hurt the wires. And the road salts and grime didn't either.


Agreed.

Have done the same thing, however, as I learned along the way of life, just because you did something or used something didn't necessarily mean it was a "good thing" or "recommended thing"..

It just means you "got away with it"..

Once I started working with a lot of other electrical techs, I was "corrected" as to use the recommended materials for the job at hand.

Additionally was introduced to self adhesive heat shrink tubing which uses a heat activated glue/sealer layer inside the tubing for electrical connections used outdoors when water intrusion is a high possibility..

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