RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Class C Motorhomes: Removing factory silicone sealant

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Class C Motorhomes

Open Roads Forum  >  Class C Motorhomes  >  All

 > Removing factory silicone sealant

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Sponsored By:
clotus

ca

Senior Member

Joined: 08/20/2010

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 02/20/21 07:01pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hey all!

Winnebago used NuFlex 311 Silicone sealant on all of the roofing joints and vents. The stuff seems to be holding up well on my 2017 Minnie Winnie. My gray tank roof vent just broke and has to be replaced. Of course this is near the skylight of my shower so the sealant for both are connected into one large layer of sealant.

I know the main negative of silicone is that once you use silicone, nothing will stick to it in the event you have a crack. While researching the vent cover I needed, I came across a few videos stating to not use Dicor on Winnebago's roofs because they use silicone and there will always be a very thin layer left on the roof causing the Dicor to not stick. The videos claim to only use NuFlex for this reason.

Question:

1) If the above was the case, wouldn't the NuFlex also not stick, because by nature, fresh silicone will not stick to cured silicon?

2)If that is true, I would have to ensure the roof was properly cleaned for either silicone or Dicor to stick, which means I could switch to Dicor without issue, right?

3) Will Mineral spirits followed up with alcohol along with vigorous rubbing clean all the residual silicone off the roof and allow new sealant to stick?

Thank you in advance for your thoughts and recommendations?


Current: 2017 Winnebago 31K
(Sold): 5th wheel: 2015 Heartland Sundance XLT 245

pbitschura

SE MN

Senior Member

Joined: 01/17/2005

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 02/21/21 07:03am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

#2,3 are correct. Additionally, carburator cleaner followed by acetone work equally well. The key is still elbow grease and repeat process twice or even three times. Good luck.


1988 Mallard class c 24' Chevy chassis 350 cu gas.

fourthclassC

MA

Senior Member

Joined: 06/09/2005

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 02/21/21 08:00am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My advice - remove silicone and residue as suggested. I use Proflex and Dicore interchangeably. Never heard of the one you referred to.

bobndot

USA

Senior Member

Joined: 08/21/2007

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 02/21/21 08:20am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

On horizontal surfaces use Dicor self leveling.
On vertical surfaces , I switched from Proflex to 3m 4000 uv. It is very uv resistant and a lot easier to apply than the Proflex.
Both last and work well but you need to use ‘brite white’ in Proflex otherwise it will tend to yellow. The 3m goes on easier, it makes a nice even line when you use a wet finger to smooth it.

Apply a fine mist of denatured alcohol to the caulking bead using the spray bottle. The alcohol keeps the caulk from sticking. Use your index finger to smooth the bead of caulking with your finger before the alcohol evaporates

clotus

ca

Senior Member

Joined: 08/20/2010

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 02/21/21 01:40pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Sounds like I can switch over to Dicor. Thanks for the replies, always nice to confirm what I was already thinking.

pauldub

North of Seattle

Senior Member

Joined: 11/01/2005

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 02/23/21 01:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You need to use something abrasive to clean as much silicone off as possible and then flush it and do it again. It's pretty much impossible to completely remove the silicone contamination. I'm a silicone hater; however, the flowable silicone Winnie uses is very good stuff. When I replaced the skylight with a fantastic fan on my Winnie about a dozen years ago, I abrasively cleaned the roof surface and sealed the fan with the Winnie silicone.

jjrbus

FT Myers FL

Senior Member

Joined: 07/19/2008

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 03/04/21 03:19am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Agree with pauldub, I hate silicone. It must be mechanically removed with sandpaper or wire brush or it is still there.

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 

Open Roads Forum  >  Class C Motorhomes  >  All

 > Removing factory silicone sealant
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Class C Motorhomes


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:




© 2021 CWI, Inc. © 2021 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.