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Open Roads Forum  >  Travel Trailers  >  General Q&A

 > Best Roof Coating

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BarneyS

S.E. Lower Michigan

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Posted: 06/23/21 11:58am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I used the ProGuard product quite a few years ago on my Sunnybrook trailer and again a few years back. At first I was quite happy with it but it has rapidly deteriorated and I am now in the process of scheduling a complete tear off and replacement of the roof covering.
You can see my post from 2012, with pictures, here.
I am afraid I can no longer recommend the use of this product.
Barney


2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
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Not towing now.
Former tow vehicles were 2016 Ram 2500 CTD, 2002 Ford F250, 7.3 PSD


ekim17mr

richmond/bc/canada

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Posted: 08/21/21 05:49am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Im going to use eternabond on my camper do you completely cover the rubber trim which covers the screws on the side walls or just to the centre of it?


2002 F-350 v-10 supercab 2001 90FWS Adventurer camper
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Thermoguy

Graham, WA

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Good Sam RV Club Member

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Posted: 08/21/21 09:53am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Check out YouTube - there is a great video of a guy using eternabond for the top edge of the sidewall to the roof.

Gdetrailer

PA

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Posted: 08/21/21 10:50am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BarneyS wrote:

I used the ProGuard product quite a few years ago on my Sunnybrook trailer and again a few years back. At first I was quite happy with it but it has rapidly deteriorated and I am now in the process of scheduling a complete tear off and replacement of the roof covering.
You can see my post from 2012, with pictures, here.
I am afraid I can no longer recommend the use of this product.
Barney


BarneyS, your experience echos my experience with liquid repairs in a can. They look great for a short time and then deteriorate/peal/wear off in a matter of a few yrs after application.

I used a different brand with similar results, looked great for two-three yrs, then it started to wear thin in spots to the point the old roof started showing through. What didn't wear thin started to peal off.

It isn't an issue with the brand of the product or how well you clean/prep the roof. It is more of the fact that with liquid applications the liquid must be thin enough to brush/roll/spray on to the roof. Those layers will never be as thick as the original surface layer the roof had from factory and will require multiple applications to build up multiple thin layers.

It just will not last as long as replacing the roof with a new membrane.

Liquid repairs are fine if you are planning to hide defects of the roof for selling to the next unsuspecting buyer , but if you are planning to keep more than a few yrs replacing the roof is the better route.

Once you start painting the roof, you will have to paint it again and again as the paint wears out.

In hindsight, I should have taken some pix of my roof as the liquid repairs deteriorated to show the forum, it is disheartening to go through the expense, hard work and time just to realize it only gives you a few good years and then you have to do it all over again.

Vintage465

Prunedale CA.

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Posted: 08/26/21 07:49pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'll be coating my roof in a year or two. I will be looking real hard at Crazy Seal

https://crazyseal.com/advantages/?gclid=CjwKCAjw95yJBhAgEiwAmRrutJItNr3Oli1Y4r36rAp9R8jBgNBdvMEixobP5pW8I8rWMguKeYMKjxoCka4QAvD_BwE


V-465
2013 GMC 2500HD Duramax Denali. 2015 CreekSide 20fq w/450 watts solar and 465 amp/hour of batteries. Retired and living the dream!

JIMNLIN

Oklahoma

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Posted: 08/27/21 06:56am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I wouldn't draw any conclusion based on one persons bad experience with any product. Too many variables and in some cases 1000 times more folks have no issues with that product.

Years ago before rubber roof material most rv trailers came with mill finish aluminum roof material like my '84 26' fifth wheel rv trailer. Those old mill finish roofs were hot in the sun. The material came in huge rolls and was oily. This was before white aluminum material became available.
Not much in roof coatings was available back then other than Cool Seal White elastomeric. I applied 3 coats per instructions over the mill finish roof. WE kept the trailer 7 more years and no issues with it. The trailer was much cooler with the white roof. There were no leaks on the roof ...I just wanted a cooler camper and got it.

The oils on the roof material needed special attention for complete removal. I cycled the prep instruction three times. Heavy oils were used in the rolling and crimping mfg process.

Painting a vehicle or applying a roof coating takes special knowledge and mostly experience with prepping the job. The part I always hated.


"good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment" ............ Will Rogers

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Gdetrailer

PA

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Posted: 08/27/21 07:13am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

JIMNLIN wrote:

I wouldn't draw any conclusion based on one persons bad experience with any product. Too many variables and in some cases 1000 times more folks have no issues with that product.

Years ago before rubber roof material most rv trailers came with mill finish aluminum roof material like my '84 26' fifth wheel rv trailer. Those old mill finish roofs were hot in the sun. The material came in huge rolls and was oily. This was before white aluminum material became available.
Not much in roof coatings was available back then other than Cool Seal White elastomeric. I applied 3 coats per instructions over the mill finish roof. WE kept the trailer 7 more years and no issues with it. The trailer was much cooler with the white roof. There were no leaks on the roof ...I just wanted a cooler camper and got it.

The oils on the roof material needed special attention for complete removal. I cycled the prep instruction three times. Heavy oils were used in the rolling and crimping mfg process.

Painting a vehicle or applying a roof coating takes special knowledge and mostly experience with prepping the job. The part I always hated.


Cool Seal is one of several products I have tried, each product has failed in one way or another. I also tried the big rage of bedliner of a few yrs back, it too failed and sadly when it failed it damaged the roofing underneath it, causing a tear which then proceeded to leak all winter long ruining my ceiling panels.

As I see it, each product is of dissimilar and incompatible material which has an expansion and contraction ratio that is also not compatible.

In other words, original roof expands/contracts at one rate, the fix in a can expands/contracts at a different rate. The two different rates then will stretch/shrink enough to eventually lead to the weaker material to fail.

The only way to 100% avoid dissimilar expansion/contraction rate is to use 100% the same material as the base OEM material. Oh, you might get close and lucky to find one that is similar enough for a short time but it will eventually fail.

My roof gets 100F more temps in the summer and can get weeks on end at -20F or a bit lower, that is a huge temperature swing and anything that is not compatible with that type of temp swings will fail.

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