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 > Buying a new TC

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Bert the Welder

Van. Island

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Posted: 03/29/21 12:40pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'm over on the Island and just got a new NL 10.2. I too was thinking of deletions. AC, microwave, stereo, TV. But as my wife pointed out, deleting them might affect resale potential. And the $ savings and weight savings were likely not a massive savings anyway. And as others have said, you don't have to use them, but if needed, nice to have it there.
We went with a F350 dually, due to it being a 10.2. As others have said, take a bunch of trips with the TC and truck stock. No sense spending $$$ on stuff you don't need. Get a feel for what it's doing. If there's something of concern, then post what you are unhappy about and hopefully get some advice from those on here, with similar rigs and same issues. Not a guarantee of a solution for you specifically, but at least a rough idea.
It's not going to drive like when empty so keep that in mind. I think multiple trips are the best idea as it gets you experience with your rig and gives your brain and butt time to make adjustments to how you drive with the TC on. It's gonna do things that feel odd, even scary to some, but it's a matter of if those things are outside "normal" or not.
Save your money for now and enjoy!
Congrats!


"> 1998 GMC 2500, 10.5 Okanagan, My better/smarter half, George and Finnegan(APBT), all I need.


ICamel

Oregon

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Posted: 03/29/21 01:25pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Unless you camp where there is 120V(30A) electric service OR have a portable generator(or onboard generator)which will handle the electric load that AC will be pretty much useless for you. You should be able to use the electric fan function of the AC from your 12V camper battery.


ICamel

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Grit dog

Black Diamond, WA

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Posted: 03/29/21 01:59pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ICamel wrote:

You should be able to use the electric fan function of the AC from your 12V camper battery.

This is an interesting statement. Does the AC on your AF run off both 12V/120V?


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trailernovice

Mission TX

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Posted: 03/29/21 02:16pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have never had a truck camper...so can't speak to the suspension issue

Re. 'to a/c or not a/c'....a few thoughts....

You sure you'll never end up traveling in the summer anywhere it gets above 90 degrees or so?

Also, seems to me it depends on how you'll use it...i'm assuming that, because of their small size, most truck-camper folks use their rigs mainly to be where they want to be rather than as a destination in & of themselves....that the truck camper is simply a place to sleep, shower and eat while in a state park or wherever, with most of the time spent outside or on 'excursions' rather than sitting inside just to sit inside...

seems to me no up-front need for a/c if you know you'll camp mostly or exclusively where it's cool even in the summer, you don't plan to spend a great deal of time in the camper except for sleeping, and you're not worried about marketability if/when it comes time to move the rig on to a new owner...i DID like the 'even if not, get it prewired for a/c' idea


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billtex

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Posted: 03/29/21 04:12pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

AC pre-wire is a good idea. Pretty sure they are all built with the wiring harness in there anyway. But you can ask.


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Mammoth501

East Kootenay BC

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Posted: 03/29/21 06:36pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

WOW! I'm glad I came to this site, so much food for thought. Thank you very much everybody! I'm starting to lean more towards the A/C delete. I'm getting this camper to go hang out in the bush, dry camping, I don't like campsites that much [emoticon] I do have a Honda 2000 generator that would run the A/C easy and on the new NL it looks like its pretty low profile (it's still the highest part of the rig) but since I plan on staying more off grid and in the trees I think I'll just make sure that it's pre wired for it just in case I change my mind, it'll be easy to just pop it in later. That being said I'll move on to the weight. I do have to be weight conscious, even with my truck being a 1ton. The camper will be somewhere around 3300lbs wet, that only gives me about 600lbs for stuff including the wife and me. GVWR on the truck is 11800 and the truck weighs about 7900. That's really pushing it but what TC isn't overweight out there [emoticon] They sure don't make trucks like they used to. Anyways, I know the truck will be maxed out according to the stickers so I'm sure I'll have to help out the suspension a little bit just to make the ride more safe/comfortable. I will go with the advice of trying it stock first and feel it out to see what exactly I need. I'm not a mechanic but to me it seems like it's not enough to carry the weight. Looks like I got 3 springs and one helper spring. I don't know, what do you guys think?

This is basically what my leaf springs look like
https://www.carid.com/dorman/leaf-springs.html?urlId=91086214

* This post was edited 03/29/21 07:32pm by Mammoth501 *

Grit dog

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Posted: 03/29/21 07:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The rear springs "look" not quite up to the task, although I think you'll be surprised how stiff they really are.
Not saying you won't want/need to add something, but wait until the camper is loaded and then full, ready to camp and see how much it really sags and also will give you some time to analyze the rear suspension options as there are about a half dozen different ways to go with it.
Add a leafs, bolt on.
Roadmaster
Timbrens
Sumo Springs
Air bags
Upper stable loads
Lower stable loads

All are a bit different in characteristics or adjustability.

That said, a sway bar will be, not mandatory, but highly desirable. You could add that now, knowing that you'll want that regardless of what you do to take the sag out later.

Bert the Welder

Van. Island

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Posted: 03/29/21 09:03pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If your over by a bit, I'm sure the pucker factor that is built in over and above the sticker max will be more then enough to handle the load. And if your truck is a 5 seater, and it's just two of you, there's some spare cargo capacity available. Also add to that (or minus as the case is) the tailgate will be removed, shedding further weight.
But yeah, if you're a die-hard boondocker, nix the A/C. But as pointed out, at least get the wiring there would be smart.
Have you been given a wait time for your build? Last I heard NL's were gonna be next Nov.

billtex

RI

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Posted: 03/30/21 04:43am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Mammoth501 wrote:

They sure don't make trucks like they used to.


Thank God.
Today’s trucks are much more capable (payload, economy, reliability...) then just a few years ago.

Your one ton should be fine for that NL.

mbloof

Beaverton, OR

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Posted: 03/30/21 06:55am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Given the generally accepted "rule of thumb" of adding ~1000lbs to the dry weight to get the ready for camping weight, your likely going to be over your GVWR. (for example, my '17 F250+NL9.6+gear weigh in at ~12000lbs)

The two NL groups on FB each has dozens of examples of folks with 1T SRW trucks carrying a 10.2 NL camper.

While in a recent survey ~70% of the SRW+NL owners did modifications to their trucks (tires+rims, shocks, suspension or all three) there are quite a few people using that setup.

With the above being said, ~30% made no modifications to their trucks.

Get the setup all loaded up for camping and do a test drive or two. You will soon know if you need modifications (or NOT!) to your truck.

Happy camping!


- Mark0.

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