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Open Roads Forum  >  Towing

 > 6 ply or 10 ply. Would I see a difference?

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2oldman

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Posted: 06/07/21 08:36am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Not sure how you buy tires by 'ply' anymore.

valhalla360

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Posted: 06/07/21 09:40am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

SweetLou wrote:

Ply rating means a lot still. If you can get 10 ply, why not have a peace of mind that you did all you could? Blow outs during a trip are dangerous and destructive. Keep that in mind as you sit on side of the road with all the damage you now need to fix with all it's hassles. Try getting parts now. Plus trying to change out the tire as traffic wiz by. Just put the 10 ply and hell with the minimal rough ride. Safety fist for your family.


Find us a 10ply tire and we can discuss it.

It's outdated terminology. 40-50yr ago, tires were made stronger by adding more plys to the carcass. With modern steel belted tires, no one is making 10ply tires for pickups.

The modern spec is the load rating index (someone already explained it up thread). Honestly, I don't even understand why they use that when they can simply list the maximum load in pounds/kilograms as that's really the number that counts.


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speediq99

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Posted: 06/07/21 09:46am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I've heard the argument that too much pressure on the load bars creates bouncing. I just don't understand why?

My understanding is that pressure on the equilizer bars transfers move weight to the front which helps take the load off the back reducing bouncing. In my crew cab f150 2021, I can't barely compress the front unless I really load up the Equilizer bars.

Truck is new with 12k miles. As soon as it hits 20k, I will probably just add the Load E tires.

MC
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Grit dog

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Posted: 06/07/21 11:15am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

jshupe wrote:

I always ran LRE tires on my 1/2T trucks, and it always made a ton of difference. They do make the ride rougher, but oh well.


The tires will only ride as stiff as the pressure that you have in them. Drop 'em down to the proper pressure for the weight being carried and the ride will improve accordingly.


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Cummins12V98

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Posted: 06/07/21 11:20am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

A "E" tire at the proper pressure for the load will be more stable than a "C".

Get er dun!!!


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Grit dog

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Posted: 06/07/21 11:28am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

speediq99 wrote:

I've heard the argument that too much pressure on the load bars creates bouncing. I just don't understand why?

My understanding is that pressure on the equilizer bars transfers move weight to the front which helps take the load off the back reducing bouncing. In my crew cab f150 2021, I can't barely compress the front unless I really load up the Equilizer bars.

Truck is new with 12k miles. As soon as it hits 20k, I will probably just add the Load E tires.

MC
MC


From your previous posts, it's unclear whether you have an issue with how your truck/trailer handles or just have expectations that may not be realistic.
That said, more pressure for a given load = less flex and a stiffer, more planted "ride." Within reason.
If you want to test that theory (rvnet psi cops close your eyes for a sec here please), air up your current P/XL tires to the weight your carrying plus some and go fer a drive.
Front, you said is still at factory weight or a bit light, so give 'em 44 psi or whatever the max rating is. Should be well over the min psi for the FA weight.
Rear, air them up to the weight you're carrying + 5-10psi. If that means dumping 55-60psi in your tires, that's fine, don't freak out, tires will not pop. It will stiffen up the sidewalls considerably. Take a test run and see if it helps. Far cheaper than buying new tires to fix a problem that it may not fix.
(I've run OE light duty P/XL rear tires at excessive psi many times for many miles. That's what happens when the boss says you don't need a 3/4 ton, but still have to do your job. I started out "trying" to pop a tire or 2 so I could get new ones. Never worked....but it sure improves handling)

If it works, higher load range tires can/should be in your future. Higher load LT tires will do a bit better than the overinflated donuts as the side walls are also heavier/stiffer. But airing up the ones you have will prove or disprove the need for them.

Edit: This is an as is / no warranty suggestion.

Lwiddis

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Posted: 06/07/21 12:52pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I agree about trying increased PSI before buying new tires.


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mkirsch

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Posted: 06/07/21 01:08pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

2oldman wrote:

Not sure how you buy tires by 'ply' anymore.


Okay, okay, okay... We get it... They don't make tires with "plies" anymore. A 10 ply tire does not have 10 individual layers anymore.

Being nit picky for the sake of being nit picky is rarely productive.

HOWEVER, if you read the sidewalls carefully, many tires still include a "ply rating" in addition to the load range letter, and the current speed and load indexes.

10 ply, load range E, load index 126 for example.


Putting 10-ply tires on half ton trucks since aught-four.

philh

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Posted: 06/07/21 02:34pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

HUGE DIFFERENCE!

I replaced my F150 tires with 10 ply Michelin tires. No longer needed sway control. Might still feel e teeny wiggle in higher winds and getting passed by a semi truck. Funny thing, replaced China Bombs with GY Endurance, no longer felt any sway at all.

speediq99

Arizona

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Posted: 06/07/21 02:58pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Phil

What tires did you go with for your truck?
I never thought the trailer tires had that much influence but I will look into it. I don't experience sway but I do experience bouncing in the truck.

MC

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