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Sandia Man
Rio Rancho, NM
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Joined: 08/09/2008
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Evap coolers will just make it worse with the all the humidity in Michigan, your only effective option is refrigerated AC, decide where to mount to start enjoying relief from summer heat.
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smarty
new mexico
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Joined: 04/23/2012
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Evap coolers would, IMHO, create a nightmare inside your rig due to the high level of humidity they create. And if it is humid outside they are totally useless.
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CYCLEPATH
East Tawas, MI
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Joined: 08/04/2005
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Thank you guys for the replies. NRA, I do have the electrical box, and also an A/C breaker. It looks like the Dometic, and Coleman are the two most popular units. I will have to look at them. I read where some units have the control panel built into the AC unit, if I read that correctly. Due to the fact that RV repair service is so backed up around here, I believe I am going to attempt this. Wiring isn't my strong suit, but I do have the three wires in that box. I assume these connect to the AC unit. If there is a remote thermostat, I assume that would have it's own wires, that would have to be fished to the AC unit?? It looks like a lot of YouTube in my future. Given that is is a 9' camper, I would think a low profile/moderately powered unit would work. Anyone have any input on Dometic vs Coleman? MORSNOW, how did you like the Mach 8? Thank you again for the information.
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pianotuna
Regina, SK, Canada
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Joined: 12/18/2004
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Hi,
While a wall thermostat is nice to have--there are lots of RV's that don't have such a complication. Use the kiss principle.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.
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Supercharged111
Colorado Springs, CO
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Joined: 06/09/2013
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pianotuna wrote:Hi,
While a wall thermostat is nice to have--there are lots of RV's that don't have such a complication. Use the kiss principle.
I used a Sharpie to mark the 65 and 70 degree positions on my AC temp knob. Makes it much easier to tweak the perfect temperatures and find the desired temps without hunting.
2007 Lance 1131
1997 GMC K3500 crew cab supercharged dually
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NRALIFR
Let’s Go Girls! [End of Quote]
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Joined: 11/27/2005
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Cyclepath, you’re correct a wall tstat isn’t required. I’ve actually had more RV air conditioners with the controls on the ceiling unit than on the wall.
But, the wires for a wall thermostat are already there somewhere. You wouldn’t have any luck fishing wires in the walls or ceiling of an RV due to the construction. If the wires aren’t in the ceiling box, they may be behind the vent trim bezel. And, If your existing thermostat is a “heat only” type, you’ll have to replace it with one that supports heat and air.
![[emoticon]](http://www.rv.net/sharedcontent/cfb/images/smile.gif "smile") ![[emoticon]](http://www.rv.net/sharedcontent/cfb/images/wink.gif "wink")
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mr_andyj
Georgia
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Joined: 11/13/2004
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Get the smallest roof AC unit u can get, I think this will be a 9200BTU, not the standard 13,500 BTU that most have. 9200 is plenty for a TC your size. The Dometic have the Polar cub that is also low profile (not as tall) so gives you a little more clearance. Bonus is that a 9200 will run off a 2000 watt generator where a 13.5 will not.
IF you can and are willing to put in a window unit then consider that option. $99 is a lot better price than $999.
This is hard to do on a TC.
A 5,000BTU should be plenty in this case.
I had a 9200 on a TC and it cooled instantly, and was over-kill to be honest.
AC roof units are sold as the roof part and the inside ceiling assembly is sold separately (usually). Sometimes you can find a rebuilt (like new) unit on eBay much cheaper. Sometimes you can find a used one for 200-300 bucks.
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kohldad
Goose Creek, SC
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Joined: 07/20/2004
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Quote:Get the smallest roof AC unit u can get, I think this will be a 9200BTU, not the standard 13,500 BTU that most have. 9200 is plenty for a TC your size.
Agree. The 13,500 will quick cycle once it has initially brought the unit down to temperature. With quick cycling, it doesn't run long enough to bring the temperature down. The 9200 will run more money, but worth it running properly and removing the humidity from the air.
I have a smaller Lance 815 with the 13,500 and have to switch it off, let the camper heat up, then turn it back on. Have to do this so the compressor cycle is long enough for it to remove enough moisture in the air so things don't feel damp. After 14 years of owning this camper, I keep thinking the 13,500 is going to die, but except for a bad capacitor, it just keeps on chuggin.
2015 Ram 3500 4x4 Crew Cab SRW 6.4 Hemi LB 3.73 (12.4 hand calc avg mpg after 92,000 miles with camper)
2004 Lance 815 (prev: 2004 FW 35'; 1994 TT 30'; Tents)
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Atchafalaya_man
Lafayette, Louisiana
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Joined: 08/24/2009
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For the ease of installation, a 'ceiling control' model only requires 120vac power to be connected to it. All on-off and temp controls are on the housing that screws to the ceiling.
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mkirsch
Rochester, NY
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Joined: 04/09/2004
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You don't have to worry about whether or not the unit you choose has built in controls, because that will be specified in the description of the unit you order. If it doesn't say, ASK QUESTIONS. If you don't get a satisfactory answer, DON'T BUY. Find another seller that can answer your questions to your satisfaction, and buy from them even if they're more expensive.
Putting 10-ply tires on half ton trucks since aught-four.
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