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Open Roads Forum  >  Tow Vehicles

 > tow truck THIKS its overheating

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BenK

SF BayArea

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Posted: 07/19/21 12:39pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Suggest posting on the Ford F150 forum

As for the dealer unable to find the issue, try another dealer or ASE Master Mechanic specializing in thermal management.

For your dash gauge to go into the red zone and go into limp mode, there has to be a code set. A simple code reader should find that code.

If no code set, then there will be too many things that might be taking the thermal system down. Personally dislike overly complex vehicles and their level of diagnostics (today).

Lastly, what was the last time you had the HOATs coolant flushed ? and...have you been opening the closed coolant system? That allows air & the main culprit is oxygen being allowed into the HOATs mix, which is very bad and will cause acid laden globules to form and stick to cooling areas (radiator tubes) to both plug and rot it out from the inside


-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

MitchF150

Puyallup, WA

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Posted: 07/24/21 01:11pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Well, the original poster has the Ecoboost engine. When they go into limp mode, it's to save itself. May or may not leave a code. The system is just doing what it was meant to do in that condition.

Boost is a great thing for producing a lot of power on these little 3.5L V6 engines.. 365 hp and 430 tq.. Not too bad...

But, the cost is you can't just keep 15 psi of boost for endless amounts of time. 2-3 minutes, sure, but it'll get dang hot in that short time!

Let off and it cools down pretty quick.

Just sticking the thing in D and setting T/H mode and then just bombing up the grades or trying to keep "the speed limit" and letting it run in 6th gear doing will will put that boost level over 10 psi and that's where the coolers can't keep up for any length of time.

I've been towing with my Eco for over 6 years now and from day one and there is a learning curve to being able to run these things well..

Once you start monitoring the actual temps and other monitors that are not on the dashboard, you find out real quick that boost = heat and the longer you have that boost > 10psi, the temps rise quick.

Then Ford does not let the temp gauge actually MOVE until you are getting to 240* at least.. I think limp mode comes in around 250*.

I have gotten to 230* monitoring my coolant temp and the dash gauge has never moved. Trans temps have never gotten over 215*. Let off the gas either on the down side of the grade, or just gear down to lower boost and slow down a bit, the temps start to go down pretty quick.

I lock out 6th gear going on the flats. I have 3.73 gears and 5th will hold a nice speed of 65 mph at around 22-2300 rpms and around 2-3psi of boost. Temps hold steady at around 205*. Will move up to around 210* if the boost gets to 6-7psi and once over 10psi, 220* comes pretty fast.

The electric fans turn on at 213* on low and will go to high at 225*

This is all my using the + - button on the gear shift and running the gears to keep the engine in a nice 2000-4000 rpm range.

Up the grades, I like to hold it in 4th, pulling just under 3000 rpms and around 50-55 mph.

I still have a ton of pedal left, and can go 70 mph if I had or wanted too... But, the cost would be lots of heat really fast and to get to the top of the hill a minute or so quicker??

Anyway, just my experience with it.. I know I'll get ripped on this, so be it.. To answer the question of my cooling system, I have changed the coolant 2 times now and change my engine oil every 4-5000 miles at most. I've also changed the trans fluid 2 times and I have over 103,000 miles on the Eco right now. It's just that the cooling system does NOT have enough capacity to handle it all... It's actually 2 gallons less cap then my old 97 F150 with the 5.4 had...[emoticon]

It's what works for me and I know my truck and I know my comfort zone and I've never been in limp mode or stuck on the side of the road... (knocking on my wooden head right now) [emoticon]

Good luck! Mitch
[image]


2013 F150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab Max Tow Egoboost 3.73 gears #7700 GVWR #1920 payload. 2019 Rockwood Mini Lite 2511S.

Weldon

Texas

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Posted: 07/24/21 01:51pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

What weight is your trailer? Were you excessive as for as speed? Surely the dealer checked your thermostat.

Weldon

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Posted: 07/24/21 01:53pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

What weight is your trailer? Were you excessive as for as speed? Surely the dealer checked your thermostat.

time2roll

Southern California

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Posted: 07/24/21 03:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

+1 MitchF150. I don't think the OP understands how engines "overheat" in today's computer controlled world.


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deltabravo

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Posted: 08/04/21 06:33am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

flathead92 wrote:

our 2011 f 150 under load red lines


What redlines? THe temp gauge? The tach? The fuel gauge?

Your question is far too vague for us to give any kind of a logical answer.


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Groover

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Posted: 08/06/21 07:11am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

MitchF150 wrote:
"Then Ford does not let the temp gauge actually MOVE until you are getting to 240* at least.. I think limp mode comes in around 250*."

I have noticed that the temperature gauge on my EcoBoost is very steady and wondered about that. I can't comprehend why Ford would give us a gauge and then disable it. Don't they want us to take care of our vehicles? Don't we need good information to do that?

Grit dog

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Posted: 08/06/21 09:37am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Good discussion, but OP hasn't been back in over 2 weeks to participate in HIS thread, so guessing he fixed it or isn't interested in rvnet opinions any longer....


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time2roll

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Posted: 08/06/21 09:48am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Groover wrote:

MitchF150 wrote:
"Then Ford does not let the temp gauge actually MOVE until you are getting to 240* at least.. I think limp mode comes in around 250*."

I have noticed that the temperature gauge on my EcoBoost is very steady and wondered about that. I can't comprehend why Ford would give us a gauge and then disable it. Don't they want us to take care of our vehicles? Don't we need good information to do that?
Trouble is if Ford gives you numbers that are normal but people have their own idea of normal so then cost of warranty service to tell the customer all is normal goes way up.

Who would just run at 240 coolant temperature and think all is normal?

If the needle is not moving all is normal. If there is an actual issue the needle moves up or down from normal. At this point don't second guess it... slow down.

parker.rowe

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Posted: 08/06/21 10:58am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

time2roll wrote:

Trouble is if Ford gives you numbers that are normal but people have their own idea of normal so then cost of warranty service to tell the customer all is normal goes way up.

Who would just run at 240 coolant temperature and think all is normal?

If the needle is not moving all is normal. If there is an actual issue the needle moves up or down from normal. At this point don't second guess it... slow down.


Yep, the early 90's ford pickups I owned were the same way. Gauge was more like to old idiot lights, but people want to see gauges. Your either cold, normal, or in trouble.

Not sure if Ford did the same when they switched to the mod motors in the mid 90's, but I think this is a pretty common practice.


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