BurbMan
Indianapolis, IN
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This has nothing to do with the ground wire or using an extension cord. The outlet that you are plugged into is miswired, where the not/neutral wires are reversed on the outlet.
EVEN IF EVERYTHING IS GROUNDED PROPERLY, PLUGGING INTO A MISWIRED OUTLET WILL STILL SHOCK YOU WHEN YOU TOUCH THE RV.
Best practice is to use a tester as shown above before you plug in anywhere. If the tester doesn't go green, don't plug in.
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mikim
Rancho Cucamonga, CA USA
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https://www.rvtravel.com/rv-electricity-why-do-hot-skin-shocks-occur/
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Mike134
Elgin, IL
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BurbMan wrote:This has nothing to do with the ground wire or using an extension cord. The outlet that you are plugged into is miswired, where the not/neutral wires are reversed on the outlet.
EVEN IF EVERYTHING IS GROUNDED PROPERLY, PLUGGING INTO A MISWIRED OUTLET WILL STILL SHOCK YOU WHEN YOU TOUCH THE RV.
I've been an electrician for 38 years. Please post an elementary drawing showing how reversed hot and neutral cause the metal chassis of the trailer to become electrified. IT CANNOT.
What he has is a hot wire touching the metal of the coach (neither hot or neutral touch the coach in normal operation because they are insulated) and since the ground wire connection is also missing he/she gets a shock.
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BB_TX
McKinney, Texas
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Mike134 wrote:BurbMan wrote:This has nothing to do with the ground wire or using an extension cord. The outlet that you are plugged into is miswired, where the not/neutral wires are reversed on the outlet.
EVEN IF EVERYTHING IS GROUNDED PROPERLY, PLUGGING INTO A MISWIRED OUTLET WILL STILL SHOCK YOU WHEN YOU TOUCH THE RV.
I've been an electrician for 38 years. Please post an elementary drawing showing how reversed hot and neutral cause the metal chassis of the trailer to become electrified. IT CANNOT.
What he has is a hot wire touching the metal of the coach (neither hot or neutral touch the coach in normal operation because they are insulated) and since the ground wire connection is also missing he/she gets a shock.
Amen!!
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time2roll
Southern California
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Mike134 wrote:BurbMan wrote:This has nothing to do with the ground wire or using an extension cord. The outlet that you are plugged into is miswired, where the not/neutral wires are reversed on the outlet.
EVEN IF EVERYTHING IS GROUNDED PROPERLY, PLUGGING INTO A MISWIRED OUTLET WILL STILL SHOCK YOU WHEN YOU TOUCH THE RV.
I've been an electrician for 38 years. Please post an elementary drawing showing how reversed hot and neutral cause the metal chassis of the trailer to become electrified. IT CANNOT.
What he has is a hot wire touching the metal of the coach (neither hot or neutral touch the coach in normal operation because they are insulated) and since the ground wire connection is also missing he/she gets a shock. When something is leaking to ground but turned off there is no leak until the RV is powered up with reverse polarity. That is where this comes from. Frequently it is the fridge or water heater. And yes combined with a bad ground.
Anyway how about share what direction the OP should look first.
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Mike134
Elgin, IL
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time2roll wrote:Mike134 wrote:BurbMan wrote:This has nothing to do with the ground wire or using an extension cord. The outlet that you are plugged into is miswired, where the not/neutral wires are reversed on the outlet.
EVEN IF EVERYTHING IS GROUNDED PROPERLY, PLUGGING INTO A MISWIRED OUTLET WILL STILL SHOCK YOU WHEN YOU TOUCH THE RV.
I've been an electrician for 38 years. Please post an elementary drawing showing how reversed hot and neutral cause the metal chassis of the trailer to become electrified. IT CANNOT.
What he has is a hot wire touching the metal of the coach (neither hot or neutral touch the coach in normal operation because they are insulated) and since the ground wire connection is also missing he/she gets a shock. When something is leaking to ground but turned off there is no leak until the RV is powered up with reverse polarity. That is where this comes from. Frequently it is the fridge or water heater. And yes combined with a bad ground.
Anyway how about share what direction the OP should look first.
Sure go to Post #3 fix that first. Then if the ground path is properly fixed (OP has the skill set to know this?) a breaker will trip in the coach so he can narrow down where he looks for the hot wire touching the metal chassis.
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enblethen
Moses Lake, WA
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Joined: 01/05/2005
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If the ground is fixed between the source and the rig's distribution panel, the problem will disappear.
Some leakage could be induced into the skin and chassis.
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CA Traveler
The Western States
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enblethen wrote:If the ground is fixed between the source and the rig's distribution panel, the problem will disappear.
Some leakage could be induced into the skin and chassis. I would express it a different way: The problem will be masked and waiting for the next open ground connection.
ie The ground fault and the open ground should both be fixed. Fixing the open ground first is OK, but follow up plugging into a GFCI.
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sgtsteve
Camp Hill, PA
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Thanks to all who have written on the topic!
I had an electrician come out and test the outlet the trailer was plugged into. The result was there is a proper ground in the outlet. On another note, when the "electrification" occurred, no circuit breaker was thrown, not in the house and not in the trailer. There is no electrification when the trailer is not plugged in. The garage outlet is not a GFI so I am going to get that changed. I am going to get my own electric voltage tester so I can touch it to the outer skin as I conduct more tests. I'll update everyone as I continue the investigation.
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Mike134
Elgin, IL
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enblethen wrote:
Some leakage could be induced into the skin and chassis.
That's a new one on me after 38 years.
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