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 > Torklift tie down maintenance

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JimK-NY

NY

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Posted: 08/07/21 06:34am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You can use a wire brush. I would save some work and use a circular brush in an electric drill. Don't worry about removing metal. You would need to grind for days and use up many brushes before you would even start to weaken the brackets.

Eventually stone chips take a toll and I have had to repaint mine a couple of times. You do not need to remove every trace of rust, but the paint job will last much longer if you do a thorough job of surface prep.

Geo*Boy

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Posted: 08/07/21 07:34am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

How are stainless steel Fastguns rusting?

bobbolotune

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Posted: 08/07/21 07:56am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Geo*Boy wrote:

How are stainless steel Fastguns rusting?


I'm the OP. It is the (steel) tie downs that are rusting, not the fastguns.


Lance 850 truck camper
2016 Ram 3500 regular cab long bed 4x4 DRW 6.4L HEMI gas

bobbolotune

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Posted: 08/07/21 08:15am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I’m the OP. Lots of great advice here, thanks! I am glad I asked because some products have been pointed out that I was not aware of. Also that my question about over sanding weakening the part was answered (not to worry about it).

Someone recommended “Rustoleum Rust Converter”. From google searches the Rustoleum product seems to be called “Rust Reformer” not “Rust Converter”.

There is also a product VHT Rust Convertor which has good reviews on Amazon. Maybe that is what the responses talking about rust converter meant?

I also found POR-15. But from this website:

por15.com/products/rust-preventive-coating

Scroll down a little and it is a 4 step process of degreaser, metal prep, then the POR-15, then paint. That is a lot of work. But maybe just slop on the POR-15 is good enough for tie downs?

Multiple good options here. It may come down to which I find on the shelf at Home Depot. I am leaning toward the Rustoleum Rust Reformer or VHT Rust Convertor because it is simple spray on. Then the instructions say to paint over it but that can again be just simple spray paint.

JimK-NY

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Posted: 08/07/21 01:07pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Even if you use Rustoleum or a similar product designed for rusty surfaces, I would still do the best surface prep that is feasible. You will get longer paint life if you start with bare metal or mostly bare metal. Certainly get rid of any heavy, flaky rust.

bobbolotune

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Posted: 08/07/21 07:52pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

JimK-NY wrote:

Even if you use Rustoleum or a similar product designed for rusty surfaces, I would still do the best surface prep that is feasible. You will get longer paint life if you start with bare metal or mostly bare metal. Certainly get rid of any heavy, flaky rust.


Makes sense. Thanks, I will do this. Also just to rough up the old paint before painting over it.

StirCrazy

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Posted: 08/08/21 06:28am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

if you want to use a mechanical wheel, get a brass one, it will take rust and pain off but is softer than the steel so it will wear instead of the steel.

Steve


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zcookiemonstar

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Posted: 08/10/21 08:10pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hey nice to see someone else from the Chicago area has a Truck Camper. They are not common around here

markchengr

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Posted: 08/11/21 05:30pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Rust converters (reformers) have been around for many years. They work by converting ferric oxide (red rust) to ferrous oxide (magnetite). I use them whenever there is any rust on steel before painting. You can even just convert the rust and leave it unpainted if appearance is no concern. They turn the rust black. There are a number of different brands.

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