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 > Anyone with 12v Air Conditioning Experience?

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Kayteg1

California > Nevada

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Posted: 08/28/21 09:52am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

burningman wrote:


It’s similar with campers. They come with seemingly oversized units for a reason.


Don't know about oversized.
My 12' Lace had 13.5 k BTU unit and when we camp in 120's the AC running all the time was just on the edge of keeping us in comfort.
We were good in the center, but close to the walls you felt the heat.
Opening any cabinet was like opening working oven.
We had afternoon shade, so with night cooling down to 105F made the cabover good enough for sleeping.





adamis

Northern California

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Posted: 08/28/21 12:06pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

HMS Beagle wrote:

adamis wrote:

Here is an interesting test. Granted, it was done in ideal conditions but still quite impressive. The 100ah Victron LiFePo4 battery lasted for 2 hours and 40 minutes. They are supposedly going to do an outdoor test tomorrow.

https://youtu.be/2LL7lE4wXvs


Interesting test, even if they presenter is completely clueless on just about every aspect of it. Since it was in a closed room with the thermostat set below ambient, it would have run the whole time without cycling (and would be heating the room a bit). I doubt it would use much more outside in hot temps, the high side pressure will increase just a bit. If you added 400 watts of solar you could keep it going pretty much as long as the sun shines.


Yeah, I think for 95% of cases, this scenario works pretty well. Initially I was thinking I would need 400AH of batteries but in reality, I may just need 400w+ of solar (already have 200w) and I should be okay for most of what I would need.

I am interested to see the outside test results.


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burningman

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Posted: 08/28/21 04:38pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Kayteg1 wrote:

burningman wrote:


It’s similar with campers. They come with seemingly oversized units for a reason.


Don't know about oversized.
My 12' Lace had 13.5 k BTU unit and when we camp in 120's the AC running all the time was just on the edge of keeping us in comfort.
We were good in the center, but close to the walls you felt the heat.
Opening any cabinet was like opening working oven.
We had afternoon shade, so with night cooling down to 105F made the cabover good enough for sleeping.


Yep, that’s exactly what I’m sayin’!
If you go by a residential BTU needed for how many cubic feet chart, it seems like campers have oversized ACs, but… they don’t!
The reason is what you described.


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Kayteg1

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Posted: 08/28/21 05:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I think the same will apply to furnace size or fuel supply for those who camp on the snow.
Most of my camping years I took my family to Sierras in CA, where on elevations above 4000' and parking in the shade I never need AC.
We spend days on the beach, or boat, while evenings at campfire.
The battery bank in RV would last several days, even when making morning coffee on inverter power. Those were days when affordable solars did not exist, so on day 3 I would fire generator to recharge the battery.
5 gallons of propane would last for 80 days of camping, with warming water for showers and lot of cooking.
Than beside camping in high heat I posted above, I remember nights on snow, where with big propane tank, my motorhome would discharge house batteries at 2 AM.
There is no simple way to tell what you will need without reading next week forecast for planned site.
But my idea is that when I install something, I want it to work for most of the conditions, not just for 1 weekend.

Hemi Joel

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Posted: 08/28/21 08:03pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You'll need a very hefty set of cables to get 120 amps all the way up to the roof.


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HMS Beagle

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Posted: 08/29/21 09:00am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hemi Joel wrote:

You'll need a very hefty set of cables to get 120 amps all the way up to the roof.

The Dometic 2000 uses about 40A max, so still big cables but certainly manageable. #6 would be enough.


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Kayteg1

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Posted: 08/29/21 10:32am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We have lot of "electricians" here, who will apply house building codes to automotive designs.
They are not the same and I see a lot of car wiring carrying 20 amp over wire who looks like #16.
My multimeter has about #20 wires and during testing I had 25 amps in it.
Wire in cars are much shorter than in house and they have much better cooling, where risk of fire is much lower, so the only reason for installing heavy wire on solar would be voltage drop.
Than if you install solar regulator close to the battery, that would solve voltage drop as well.
I am not trying to be electrician here, but doing mechanical work I was forced to do lot of electrical as well.

3 tons

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Posted: 08/29/21 07:44pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

HMS Beagle wrote:

Hemi Joel wrote:

You'll need a very hefty set of cables to get 120 amps all the way up to the roof.

The Dometic 2000 uses about 40A max, so still big cables but certainly manageable. #6 would be enough.


FWIW, Dometic also offers the same unit in a 24v version…

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stevenal

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Posted: 08/30/21 08:04am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Kayteg1,

Have you checked the RVIA electrical codes? I was impressed on how conservative they are. You are correct regarding wiring in cars, but I believe the topic here is wiring in TCs.


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Kayteg1

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Posted: 08/30/21 11:00am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The issue was solar wiring.
This year I bought 3000 W inverter, who came with about 18" of connecting cable.
So for 400 amp potential current, I measured the attached cables to be.... wait for it..... #8 gauge.
What RVIA says?

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