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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > AC doesn't keep up with heat

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smthbros

WI

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Posted: 08/16/21 10:37am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I find summer design temps of 91 at Kamloops and 89 at Trail. Since you are at 94 and maintain 76 indoor, my conclusion is your AC is sized about right. Of course there is also the latent heat load. Are you monitoring indoor relative humidity?

BobsYourUncle

Calgary Alberta Canada

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Posted: 08/16/21 10:41am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

okhmbldr wrote:

B Y U,
Have you thought about just getting a 12,000 btu portable A/C unit. They may not be as readily available in your area, but I picked one up on Craigslist for $150 about five years ago. Works great and gives the added boost of cool air when needed. I've loaned my to several people when their A/C quit and they were all grateful to have the little unit.
Never thought about that, but don't think I'll get too worried over it. I was more concerned that maybe my AC was heading south. But with the help of you guys here, I think it's acting normal.

Although we get temperatures in the 30'sC / 90'sF, it isn't as frequent as say the southern states such as Florida.

Think I'll climb up top now and pull the cover off to have a look. And clean the inside filter.

Thanks.


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down home

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Posted: 08/16/21 11:17am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Bob it seems you are just trying to get by, and you will never get cool, in high heat.
$600.00 for larger unit will help changing to 50Amp is not that hard if you have done it. Total $1000.00-$1500.000I think for an additional unit and conversion to 50 amp. I don't know anyone where you are at but in Kingman, Az I do. I and others sent him so much business, it might take a bit for an appointment.
Like I said our Mh was 50 amp of course, 39 ft two units and with installation of new higher output unit in front location, in Kingman,Az heat, we sat there for a year on a family mission with temps after the replacement of 72 degrees in the heat of 103 to 113 on a few occasions in 2019-2020. Bob I do not BS!
On edit correct the math...
A higher output unit that won't overload your 30 amp circuit with every thing else running will help and more than you think.
Gog to 50 am means a new 50amp controller/charger/converter.Everything can be wired, in all probability to one 50 am leg, a second heat pump/ac to the other leg. Might mean snaking wiring from charger converter to second a/c. and of course a new 50 amp cord from control center/charger/converter and new 50 amp outside cord.
Two ways to fix a problem, yourself or an expert and you pay for it to be done.
You want cool/cold air in the southwest either this or go up high to Flagstaff and north.
You have a fine a really nice unit but it's a/c or heat pump was not designed with the southwest deserts in mind!

* This post was edited 08/16/21 11:45am by down home *

BobsYourUncle

Calgary Alberta Canada

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Posted: 08/16/21 02:05pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I just stuck my digital meat thermometer probe into 2 outlets and the reading is 48F.
Don't know what it should be but this seems reasonable.

NRALIFR

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Posted: 08/16/21 03:44pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

That IS reasonable temperature drop.

The way I do a quick check of how my air conditioner at home and in the RV is performing is to measure the temperature of the air going into the unit at the air intake filter (not the outside ambient temperature) and at the air outlet register closest to the unit. If I don’t see at least 15 and hopefully closer to 20 degrees of temperature drop, I call a service tech to check it out.

Your air conditioner is only able to displace a certain amount of BTU’s of heat. If the BTU load from outside is higher than what your air conditioner can displace, you reach a point where even with it running 100% of the time it can’t bring the inside temperature down to the same point it could when the outside temperatures were milder.

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pianotuna

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Posted: 08/16/21 05:58pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Bob,

I suspect the duct work may be "leaking" cold air into the roof (assuming it is a ducted unit).

If you have a generator--perhaps run it for the last two hours of any road trip to pre-cool the trailer?


Regards, Don
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ktmrfs

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Posted: 08/16/21 07:02pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

there are a couple of easy things to do that will help.

1) if you have a ducted system, remove the ceiling vents and use foil tape to close any holes between the duct and the ceiling. More than likely there will be an airspace that needs sealing.
2) take down the AC cover on the inside and tape up any leaks between the AC unit and ductwork. Again, likely holes that need to be closed.
3) Usually there are only a few air vents in the ductwork. The ducts also tend to run the length of the trailer. Once you know where they are, get a holesaw and some more vents and add them in. I added 3 more in our main living area, one in the bathroom and one more in the bedroom. The increase in ducts reduces backpressure on the blower allowing more airflow.
4) I tossed the factory ceiling vents and went for Aireoport vents (amazon) the difuse the air horizontally, have minimal restriction, and are easy to adjust

With all these changes initial temps that had the AC running constantly then had the AC cycling at maybe 50%.

Still need more AC when it nears 100 and we are in the sun, but made a dramatic improvement.


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down home

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Posted: 08/16/21 09:42pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

pianotuna wrote:

Bob,

I suspect the duct work may be "leaking" cold air into the roof (assuming it is a ducted unit).

If you have a generator--perhaps run it for the last two hours of any road trip to pre-cool the trailer?


I'll second the possibility of leaking duct work. Main or rear heat pump fan, worked itself loose from shaft and ground into the pan on the roof. This was at a rally in Shawnee, Oklahoma. Coleman was there and repaired it for us and inspected the duct work and found a lot of big gaps in the aluminized fiberglass material at the intake and output vents that formed the duct work, from the factory. Cold air was being produced and then immediately reentered the intake and also the roof area though the gaps as were the output vents.. cooled a lot lot better after that. 2010 I think.
If you have 48 degrees chilled air coming out and the duct work sound, then the capacity, the amount of air it cools is not near enough.
A higher capacity and or a second unit seems to be in order.
I have read a number of post over the year about the shoddy put together duct work problems in more than one brand. I never investigated but wonder if there are other gaps directing the cold air into the roof area and not into the room, like was happening at he intake and the output vents.

* This post was edited 08/16/21 09:57pm by down home *

MFL

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Posted: 08/17/21 08:22am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

While I do not have a cooling issue with my 15K Dometic, I am wondering how to remove the ceiling duct vent covers, to check for leak areas. Mine are plastic, rotating vents, with no visible screws. Do these vents come down by just pulling, or does the base require a twist, other??

Jerry





udidwht

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Posted: 08/21/21 11:30pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Remove the AC roof cover. Then remove the cover that shields the condenser. Use some cleaner (no rinse to clean the condenser coil.

https://www.amazon.com/Cleaner-Ounce-Aerosol-Clear-Yellow/dp/B099J9YRMY


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