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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > Honda 2000i generator amps surging up and down

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bigfootford

Fair Oaks, California

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Posted: 08/20/21 10:55am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Sounds like you might have a self resetting breaker on the battery + wire.
Charge amps exceed the rating of the breaker it trips, resets and the cycle starts all over again.
Your solar might be wired where it bypasses the breaker. This would reduce the converter charge and thus the breaker would not trip.

Jim


2000 2500 9.6 Bigfoot,94 F250, Vision 19.5, Mich 245/70XDS2's, Bilstein shocks, air bags/pump, EU2000, PD 9260,Lifeline 100ah, 200W. solar, Morningstar Sunsaver 15A/ display panel, Trimetric, Delorme/laptop, Holux gps rec,led lights, Wave-3 heat.

MrWizard

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Posted: 08/21/21 04:49am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

PT you might be right about the victron monitor
But that will not compensate for a sulphated battery system
That no longer has the capacity the monitor is programmed with, 12.1v is Not the correct voltage of a system at 78% SOC, the SOC says he used 22% by counting the power used, but the volts reading indicates 50% SOC,
The batteries real capacity is only HALF of whatever the monitor is programmed for, time for some new batteries , and a re-examination of the use/recharge regimen, maybe there is a bad cable or dead battery, and he is only using half of the installed batteries, or the cables are good but the batteries are heavily sulfated


I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

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eric1514

AZ ID

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Posted: 08/21/21 06:20am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The OP has not told us what his monitor considers 100% charged. He is at 78% of who knows what. From the factory, the Victron monitor says 13.2v and a 4% tail current is 100%. That is way too low IMHO and deceiving. In my case, that would mean being down almost 17Ah from what I and my PD converter consider to be full. The monitor only knows what we tell it.


2006 Isata Touring Sedan 250


1L243

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Posted: 09/08/21 03:30pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have been home from my 2 weeks off grid camping to Wyoming for about a week now.

When I was off grid the cycling of the volt meter had stopped the next day and started working properly. I did not know why. I only had Solar and generator.

When we left our dry camping spot and got to our next location which had hookups my batteries were fully charged when we arrived from the solar and they remained that way till we got home so I did not notice anymore cycling.

When I got home the trailer sat for about a week and I thought I would lower the batteries down to 80% and see what happens. Yep, the cycling in the battery monitor was cycling again.

I checked connections all was good, battery acid levels were at the top.

I noticed on my trip that the 30amp shore power plug, the wire was exposed at the bottom of the plug? The plug is molded to the battery cable. So, today I decided to replace the plug. After replacing the plug the voltage cycling stopped and the battery monitor worked as it should?

Do you think it could have been a defective plug all along?

Now the next problem..

My battery monitor is shunted. Why was it showing lower voltage in relation to battery percentage.

I fully charged the batteries to 100% and reset the battery monitor. After a few hours the monitor continued to read 100% but voltage level was at 12.45v That was not right.

I have four batteries 12v Lead acid batteries in my bank. The battery monitor was wired to battery #3. I moved the monitor leads to battery #1. Battery #1 Is the battery that has all the positive leads from trailer and solar. The monitor started reading the correct voltage? 12.85v.

The batteries are wired in parallel and I tested voltage at each battery and as you would expect all read 12.85v. I have no explanation for why the monitor read a lower voltage when connected to battery #3?

But for now, all is working as it should????


2017 Coleman 300tq by Dutchman Toy Hauler. 34.5 feet long and under 10k Gross. 500 watt Solar 2000 watt Inverter, 1999 Ford F250 2WD 7.3 4R100 DP Tuner, S&B Cold Air Intake, Gauges, 6.0 Trans Cooler, Air Bags.


CA Traveler

The Western States

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Posted: 09/08/21 04:50pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The battery monitor shunt must be connected to the single ground wire that connects to the chassis and not to one of the individual parallel battery ground wires. Recheck the remaining wires for the shunt. Sounds like you fixed the problem but a picture would help.


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Bob


bigfootford

Fair Oaks, California

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Posted: 09/08/21 05:48pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Sure sounds like you have a restable breaker that is sometimes installed on rv's/campers. It is on the line from the Converter to the batteries. Your converter is putting out enough amps to trip the breaker..
Your solar for most installs bypasses that breaker, depends on how it was installed.

Jim

1L243

Oregon

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Posted: 09/10/21 09:59am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

bigfootford wrote:

Sure sounds like you have a restable breaker that is sometimes installed on rv's/campers. It is on the line from the Converter to the batteries. Your converter is putting out enough amps to trip the breaker..
Your solar for most installs bypasses that breaker, depends on how it was installed.

Jim


I replaced all the re settable breakers with manual ones a few months ago.

All is still working as it should. Im going to drain the system down to 80% again to make sure all is still good.

bigfootford

Fair Oaks, California

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Posted: 09/10/21 10:36am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

1L243 wrote:

bigfootford wrote:

Sure sounds like you have a restable breaker that is sometimes installed on rv's/campers. It is on the line from the Converter to the batteries. Your converter is putting out enough amps to trip the breaker..
Your solar for most installs bypasses that breaker, depends on how it was installed.

Jim


I replaced all the re settable breakers with manual ones a few months ago.

All is still working as it should. Im going to drain the system down to 80% again to make sure all is still good.


When you do this, using a dvm measure the voltage on the battery as the surge occurs.
If you see the voltage climb then drop there is the clue.

Jim

1L243

Oregon

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Posted: 09/10/21 10:50pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I lowered the batteries to 73%. Then I let them rest for an hour and plugged into 110. And the cycling returned. I let it sit for 3 hours just in case there was a heat issue and still cycling.

I tested the battery voltage at the batteries at the same time the battery monitor shows cycling between 44 to .02 amps and the batteries go up and down a few 10ths of a volt at the same time as the cycling?? Clue??

I think my only choice at this point is to replace the Converter with a new one.

Should I go with a direct WFCO 8955 replacement or should I go with a after market?

pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 09/10/21 10:57pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

1L243,

DO NOT BUY WFCO


Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, soon to have SiO2 batteries, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

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