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Open Roads Forum  >  Class A Motorhomes  >  General Topics

 > Ford 460 Engine vibration in overdrive

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Captainbobby

South Carolina

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Posted: 08/19/21 06:31am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have a 1998 Holiday Rambler with the F53 Chassis and 460 Ford Engine with 57k miles. For the past 2 years I have been trying to solve a vibration issue that shows up between 45 mph and 65 MPH when the transmission shifts to overdrive. You can take your foot off the gas and it quits when the torque converter disconnects and returns as soon as it locks back in. This is a typical torque converter shutter symptom but I have changed both the transmission and torque converter and it made no difference. I have also had the drive shaft balanced and all U joints replaced with no better results. The engine has been tuned with new plugs, heat resistant wires and is serviced every 5k miles with Mobil 1 synthetic. If you have enough road to get to 68 or 70 mph it goes away. Anybody out there had a similar problem? I bought the coach new in 1998 and my first trip was to Daytona Speedway when Earnhardt won the 500. It has been a great coach but this vibration issue has me very frustrated and I cannot find anyone willing to take the time to solve this issue.

Horsedoc

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Posted: 08/19/21 06:52am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ujoint? Engine mounts?

IB853347201

Eastern Ontario

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Posted: 08/19/21 07:39am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Check engine light on? Fuel milage down? Could be a bad map or O2 sensor or ?


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Bruce Brown

Northern NY

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Posted: 08/19/21 07:56am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Carrier bearing?


There are 24 hours in every day - it all depends on how you choose to use them.
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sailor_lou

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Posted: 08/19/21 08:00am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Have you checked the pinion angle? It's a relatively easy thing to check and doesn't require expensive equipment.

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MountainAir05

New Mexico

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Posted: 08/19/21 08:52am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If your drive shaft has a slip joint, check that also. If too full of grease it cause issue like you are having. release the pressure on the grease zerk till no grease comes out. Slip joints do wear out. Did you do the u-joints or have them done. Have you check to ensure they are not binding. I know you stated you had new ones installed.

Also as Lou state the pinion angle. A off angle will kill u-joints.

* This post was edited 08/19/21 08:59am by MountainAir05 *

Captainbobby

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Posted: 08/19/21 10:52am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I still think it is related to the torque converter. It's like whatever is supposed to tell the torque converter to lock up is not sending a constant signal making it shutter. The new torque converter is doing the exact same thing that the old one did. I guess it could be a sensor. The entire drive shaft was balanced and all joints replaced. The pinion angle was checked at re-installation.

2 many 2

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Posted: 08/19/21 11:42am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Very frustrating!

Cheap experiment to try for fine tuning the driveshaft balance. Place a couple hose clamps on the drive shaft next to the weights for balancing.
Placing the screw clamp on the same side of the weights will slightly increase the balance weight. Placing the screw clamp on the opposite side of the weights will slightly decrease the weight.

Good luck.

Chrisatthebeach

The beautiful low country of South Carolina

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Posted: 08/19/21 11:57am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Captainbobby wrote:

I still think it is related to the torque converter. It's like whatever is supposed to tell the torque converter to lock up is not sending a constant signal making it shutter. The new torque converter is doing the exact same thing that the old one did. I guess it could be a sensor. The entire drive shaft was balanced and all joints replaced. The pinion angle was checked at re-installation.


I had a similar issue with a 1984 S10 Blazer, we unplugged the converter lock and the problem went away. Back then there was only 12 month, 12000 miles of warranty and GM would not make it good. We drove it like that for about a year and traded it in on a new car, this was the first year of the S10 Blazer, it appeared to be built well with good fit and finish, but between the vibration issue and the multitude of rattles around the tailgate and rear window that also could not be corrected we elected to get rid of it.

I would try to disconnect the lock circuit for the converter and see if that is the issue.


Chris & Dianne
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rgatijnet1

Florida

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Posted: 08/19/21 01:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Bent wheel on one of the corners or the need for a 4 wheel alignment so that the rear end is pointed in the same way as the front end. Not too many places can do a thrust angle alignment but that may be your issue.

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